Any body try thinning two part epoxy (TAP premium marine grade 413 resin 143hardner) ? I am getting ready to glass reinforce the nose and wing joint and would like to try thinner mix of epoxy . I have heard that it helps to heat it with a hair dryer but I was hoping to try the thinning route. the guy a the TAP plastics place where this stuff was purchased seemed to have no working knowledge of this stuff.

Any body try thinning two part epoxy (TAP premium marine grade 413 resin 143hardner) ? I am getting ready to glass reinforce the nose and wing joint and would like to try thinner mix of epoxy . I have heard that it helps to heat it with a hair dryer but I was hoping to try the thinning route. the guy a the TAP plastics place where this stuff was purchased seemed to have no working knowledge of this stuff.

Gorden,

You might have better result by using an epoxy formulated for the application you have in mind.   As with most materials a purpose manufactured material seems to give better results.

I used to use Z-Poxy for finishing jobs it worked great but was pretty pricey.  On a visit to one of my LHShops I discovered a product labled "FINISH-CURE EPOXY."  Although labled with the LHS name it is really manufactured by Bob Smith Industries in California.  Here is a link to BSI's web site:

The bottles, part A and B, are 13 oz. each and labled 20 min.  this is the working time, as you will have to wait 8 hours be for sanding.  I paid 13.99 plus tax and thought it worth the price.

Follow the directions on the bottle and you can't go wrong with the product.

I got a chuckle when reading the directions.  Here is a partial quote:

"3.  Remove caps and snip off very end of nozzle.  Squeeze equal amounts of 20-min. resin and hardener onto clean disagreeable surface or container ......"

I couldn't find any clean disagreeable container but was not surprised to find one of those small clean ketchup cups purloined from my local burger shop worked pretty well.   

Thanks guys for the response . I was also told locally that denatured alcohol sold at home depot will work well also as long as it is kept free of water.

Use "Shellac Thinner" from the hardware/paint store, which is denatured alcohol. It won't have water in it. Lay the 'glass on the model, cut as required for "pie cuts" etc., and flow on the epoxy. Steve

Isopropyl & Rubbing Alcohol are the same thing.

I use the 91 % to thin epoxy. Never a problem.

If you use the 70% it will be rubbery when it cures. Hard to sand.

Z-poxy has acetone or a similar solvent in it.  It melts styrofoam.  Ask me how I know.  Goriila glue and other urethanes do to, especially if you don't give it 10-15 minutes to dry before sealing the joint.  If fresh glue is trapped agains the foam it will melt it.