All right! Here we go. John, everybody is going to be watching this build with interest. Bi-planes are very cool and there are not a lot of good designs for them available. So, we're all hoping yours is a real winner so you can kit it and become rich beyond your wildest dreams and famous throught the world.

Let the story begin......

Didn't mean to quote the post again.

Thanks Clint, but I'm a follower of Larry Cuningham s devotion to stunt. I also am only in it for the women and the money.

Oh yeah, I forgot to mention the women. You shall be adored by all.

Now get to work.

Yes, I sent them the cutfiles i developed from the CAD drawing. To be honest, I've used several cutters in the past, and recieved great service from them all. My main reason for using NB this time is the convenience of buying the balsa and the cutting at the same scource. Saved some time and at least one shipping charge.

A P6E would look great wouldn't it? I have to keep focus, and see how this project works out. If it's good, I'd be open to things like that.

I like what I am seeing already.

And how many parts are there? Also forget the women, they just cost more money. Also don't forget the pictures as you go.   

After counting all the parts, and checking agianst my pattern sheet, it became clear that one entire plywood sheet was missed in the cutting. In addition, there's the case of two identical parts, and only one was there.

I contacted the cutter, and he replied immediatly, apologising for the oversight, and letting me know that the parts would be cut and shiped that very day. I can't really ask for much better service, and with the amount of parts for this design, can readily see how it could happen.

Talk about fast service. I recieved, in todays mail, the missing parts. it was friday that I let him know about the missing parts.

Today, I found a local company that manufactures CF tubing. Since they were located just a few miles away, I went to their plant to pick up the CF tubes needed for the take apart wings. They were very helpful, and I wound up with parts that fit together perfectly for what I believe was a reasonable cost.

I also picked up some glues from the LHS and can get going again now that I have all the parts and stuff.

John,
I must have missed it somewhere, are you doing removable wings with the carbon tubes? Same Idea I have been playing with. HOw do you plan on retaining the panels?

LOVE IT!!!!!!!

Looks like fun, John. The multi-piece center section looks like it's difficult to align, but seems you have it.

I'll be watching this.

The 2 Bits looks good as a plan, so it must look good built up too 

I searched through the entire house and shop, and could not find the various sized rods I use to shape flaps and elevators. Soooooo, after flying with Gordy Norm, and Jimmy this morning, I managed to get to the hobby shop to pick up some new rods. The LHS didn't have anything over 1/4" dia., so it was over to Home depot to pick up a 3/8" dia. rod.

Since the Stab and elevators are made from 3/8" thick balsa, I knew I was going to need 3 rods to shape the trailing edge of the elevator. A 3/8" dia. rod to guage the hinge area, where I didn't want to remove any material. I placed it tight up agianst the elevator leading edge.

By placing the 1/4" dia. rod up tight to the trailing edge of the elevator, I am able to form a taper from 3/8" at the leading edge, by removing 1/8" of material from the trailing edge.

Now, by turning the elevators over, and substituting a 1/8" dia. rod at the trailing edge, I can now finish the taper on the other side of the elevators.

I know many reading this are familiar with this technique, but I've included the brief discription, and a few pictures to illustrate the idea, for those who may just be learning how to do this.

The sanded stab and elevators, now weigh 1.05 oz's.

I'll start the wings next.

Oh the joy, I dug the wing jig out of the storage shed, and found that a couple of the standoffs were damaged when something fell or got too close to them. Nothing serious, but it took a little time to reset them.

I quite like my wing jig. I have a dowel jig I used to use, but this newer one using the aluminum standards is much nicer to use. I built a base for it some years ago that allow easy adjustability so almost any type of wing can be built on it.

So first I scraped off the little glue dots left from the previous build. I cut out the wing plan from the plans so I could use it as a reference while installing the ribs.

A bit of tape on the paper keeps it lined up to the stanchions, and a bit of wax paper taped over the paper should help keep those glue dots from causing problems with the next build.

One of the most important considerations when using this style if wing jig, is to get the wing supports in level and squared up.

To accomplish this, I generally start from the center of the trailing edge, by setting the height first at that location. I next set the last, or furthest out board stanchion clamp height. It's most easily done by using a straight edge, and a level. Once the straight edge shows a level bubble, when stretched between the center stanchion clamp and the outer one, it's easy to slide the upper clamps up to sit tightly to the straight edge.

For the leading edge, you can use a level from the center stanchion clamp to the front center clamp. When it shows level, the rest of the setup is similar to what you've already done.

I stripped the 1/8" rib supports, and clamped them into the stanchion clamps

Eyeball it to assure it's all stright.

Using a right angle to keep the ribs properly aligned, you can no set them into place. I haven't glued them yet as I find I must do a little bit of work with the slots so they match up the ribs properly.

Enough for tonight.

Looks good John.   Jigs are great even if they do take time to set up.  Didn't get the jig right on the King Sweep and am now paying for it.   

So, yesterdays tasks were to figure a way to form the leading edges, and build the other half of the wing so I can install the leading edges, tips and such, before starting on the lower wing.

I decided that since it was going to take some time for the formed leading edges to dry, that I should concentrate on them first, so I can build the other wing half while they are drying.

I mentioned yesterday that I was considering using Bob Hunts method of forming the leading edge caps vs building the bucks to form the entire leading edge in one step.

While looking through my stash of stuff for something that might be of use to accomplish the task, I came accross some of those preformed balsa leading edges. These were stashed away because they were very heavy, and hard. Unsuitable for use in anything other than a sport design.

I checked the shape agianst the root rib nose to see if they were even close. They were an almost perfect match. Problem solved.

I had to make a trip to the store for some Saran Wrap, and some Ace bandages. I wanted to wrap the heavy balsa pre-formed leading edge bucks so they would not suck in the moisture and swell up, altering the shape. I also found that the old style Ace Bandages are gone, having been replaced with something similar, but having the tendency to stick to its self. It turns out that this stuff works well for our purposes.

After cutting a 4" wide sheet of balsa to end up with 2, 2" wide pieces, I soaked them in the bathtub, in hot water, for about 5 miinutes, and then placed and wrapped them onto the forms.

While they were drying, I started building the other half of the wing. I was most concerned that the two halves line up properly with the tubing I was using.

It took less than an hour, and the wing was ready to try joining. Turns out it went perfectly.

the weight, at this time for the wing, is 3.8 oz's

Here are some pictures of what I did last night.

You're in the zone! It's going together fast.

Update for May 19 2011. 2 days before the end of the world, some say.

I finished up the inboard wing, by installing the leading edge cap. I've found that it takes careful sanding of the reinforcing strip, at the nose of the airfoil, to get a good fit. I also found that centering the cap, and gluing it down the center to that reinforcment strip is good practise.

I've taken a bunch of pictures illustrating the processes leading to a finished panel. I expect to use many of these for a construction guide some time in the future.

The last picture shows the framed up top wing, joined. the legnth is 51.25 inches, and the current weight is 6.7 oz's without the tip blocks being hollowed yet.

John, this is amazing so far I can only, no I know I will be in awe of the finished ship! ----LOUIE 

Great thread John.

Something not directly related but relevant none-the-less, can anyone tell us why some pics display directly in the discussion when we click on the thumbnail and others open a new window showing just the pic?

Geoff, I don't know who picked up the production of these fine standoffs that were produced by Aero 95th. Squadron in Colorado. Someone with some time, and a mill, can easily make them. I did draw up the parts, just so I'd have them.

Ty, de nada, Chief

Has anyone a good reason why I should not use the Oak pieces for motor mounts? 

None. Just pay extra attention to any potential extra oils or resins in the wood that could effect adhesion. Cut those babies up, and hit them with a denatured alcohol etc., just to make sure.

With the wings framed up, flaps tapered, and stab and elevators framed and shaped, It's time to start the fuselage. finally.

I started today with constructing the motor crutch. I decided to use the Stalker .61RE.

That is quite a project.   

It's been 3 weeks since I started gluing parts together. I'm pleased with the progress so far.  The weight seems to be about where I want it so far at this point, all the parts assembled are less than 28 Oz's. I've yet to assemble the turtle deck, nose decking, cowl, landing gear, bottom of the fuse, and install the controls. I'm shooting at a final weight of about 60 Oz's.

I fitted the lower wing, permanently installing the mounting system, and building up the underside to match the bottom of the fuse, when finished. I first laid out the alignment lines so I could make sure the fuse and wing were aligned properly. I also made sure the wing was installed level.

The attached pics show the process. I needed to rework what you see in the last picture because the bottom under the wing wasn't quite straight enough.

So, you stayed home to build instead of going to the Regionals? Smart move, it seems.

I've found I must slow down and wait for some control parts, but figured I could install the aft turtle deck, vertical stab, and rudder. It now becomes clearer how I plan to make the stab and elevator removable. The pictures show the process pretty well.