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Author Topic: Spraying Dope  (Read 1983 times)

Offline Andrew Hathaway

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Spraying Dope
« on: April 13, 2006, 07:43:12 PM »
I'm working on the finish of the Nobler and I've stepped up to a small gravity feed gun.  The problem I was having was lack of coverage, now I've got good color coverage but the surface has a rough texture. 

I'm still getting a feel for the adjustments on the gun, anyone have any tips? or a starting point for getting it adjusted?  The Engrish instructions don't tell much.

Offline Bill Little

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Re: Spraying Dope
« Reply #1 on: April 13, 2006, 08:17:11 PM »
Hi Andrew,
Rough texture can often be from too high air pressure, or not enough thinner.
Dope will "dry" before it hits the surface you're spraying sometimes.  Although Dope (lacquer based) products will not be real glossy until rubbed out, they should go on alightly "wet".  Too much thinner will mean extra coats, but I usually thin it out pretty good.  What thinner are you using?
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Offline Andrew Hathaway

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Re: Spraying Dope
« Reply #2 on: April 13, 2006, 09:41:03 PM »
Sig dope, Sig thinner... Might have been the temp, it was about 85* out today.  I'll hit it a bit heavier tomorrow earlier in the lay and see if it lays down a bit better. 

Kirm Dog

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Re: Spraying Dope
« Reply #3 on: April 14, 2006, 06:33:28 AM »
I have had this problem too and wondered if a touch of retarder would help?   ???

Don Kirmess

Offline RC Storick

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Re: Spraying Dope
« Reply #4 on: April 14, 2006, 06:51:33 AM »
I live in a hi humidity area. I spray in my garage (or the body Shop) that is air-conditioned. Thin the dope so it flows and spry thin coats. I use no retarder. 1 drop of Castor oil per ounce of dope added to the un-thinned dope. (plasticizer)
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Kirm Dog

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Re: Spraying Dope
« Reply #5 on: April 14, 2006, 07:05:06 AM »
Thanks Robert for the tips. I'll try thining the dope more and see what happens. I've been having a problem with overspray. Maybe this will cure it. Sorry Andrew didn't mean to hijack your post.

Don Kirmess

Offline Andrew Hathaway

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Re: Spraying Dope
« Reply #6 on: April 14, 2006, 10:43:51 AM »
it's cool, doesn't bother me, more traffic is a good thing.

I tend to avoid retarder unless the paint is blushing.  In this case it'd definitely be bad because I'm having some issues with my top coats burning into my base coats.  Specifically I had a really bad reaction between the white and either the silver or the nitrate base.  Either way I'm kinda screwed and I doubt the finish will be very good when I'm done. 

I think I'm goign to hit it with one more coat of thin white to give it a chance to smooth out, if that doesn't do it I'll just finish up my trim and then worry about smoothing it out at the clear coats.  I mean its just a Nobler that started out as an ARF...

Offline Dennis Moritz

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Re: Spraying Dope
« Reply #7 on: April 14, 2006, 07:09:24 PM »
I've had problems with temperature and humidity in my work area. Especially temperature when spraying during the summer. Working during the morning when it's cooler helps. Also I've used retarder when needed, always trying a small amount and hitting a test board. When the mix is o.k. the paint lays down well and does not orange peel. I splash a small amount into a four ounce jar and try it out. Adding a little more, if it still bumps. It took me a while to realize the obvious. The heat in my work area was setting the paint up before it hit the plane. 85 degrees is quite hot for a spraying area. These are my observations. But I'm no expert. For the most part I use colored dope other than white. My bet is the heat of your work area makes the paint temperamental. Thinning in my experience does not slow down the drying that much. Careful use of retarder does help.


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