Has anyone ever used solid leadouts. If so what were the results. I had them on a couple of planes in the 70's don't remember why, also don't remember any advantage or dis advantage. Getting back into hobby after 30yr absence just asking questions. Thanks

There was/is a huge problem with K&S wire....breaks in the MIDDLE, where the wire should have the least stress....
Blame it on poor metalurgy.....
I know that Windy was a proponent of solid lead outs, but siggested 1/16" instead of the usual 1/32" or /025"....until he had a failure in the middle....now he uses stranded.....

The other problem that arose with bigger aeroplanes was that the standard length is 36", which sometimes cramps things a bit....
try to find 48" stuff....

i used them all the time  and had no problems nice and neat no cables  dangling all over and getting cought on your trunk or hatch sort of like fishen stuff. your choice

roger and out

I actually prefer solid leadouts, don't seem to have the problem with bending at the wing tips others report. Have no idea why I run into things just like everyone else, they usually just go sprongegege but don't bend. I have accidentally bent them but they were always easy to straighten out. Everything 40 and below in my fleet has .030 solids. The larger airplanes get Tom Morris bellcranks which come with stranded or some of them would probably have solids.

The lead outs in the Tudor II I did were from Tom also, great work, lines nicely done at bellcrank

Most of my planes over 1/2A use 1/32 or larger mw.  Always seemed easier to work with to me than stranded, although I also use some of the Sulllivan stranded.  The oldest plane I have with the mw leadouts is a Veco Smoothie I built just before I got out of the AF in 1968.  I have flown it with Fox, K&B Stallion 35s, and currently has a McCoy RH 35.  I have recovered it twice, replaced the beam mounts twice, and am on my second set of wheels.  Still has the original .045" mw leadouts, and Tatone brass hinges.