Author Topic: Sig Banshee Build (Read 9911 times)

Chancey Chorney · « **on:** February 15, 2016, 07:12:35 PM »

Hi all. I figured I would start this second thread about my Sig Banshee build. I am in process of building my first 'Big Bird'. I, until now, have only done flying in the 1/2a category. Back around 2000, I purchased a Sig Banshee and until now kind of forgot about it and received it back again. So, I will try my best to keep questions regarding my build here on this thread since the previous topic has been answered and dealt with. Anyways, I am at another crossroads. The fuselage and engine bearers were previously drilled for a different engine that I do not have. Holes are drilled completely through the plywood also. So, would it be alright to epoxy in dowels into the holes and trim flush and then re-drill the holes in the proper place for my engine. I will be using an old Fox .35 control line engine without muffler. Thanks.

Glenn (Gravitywell) Reach · « **Reply #1 on:** February 16, 2016, 12:03:24 AM »

Hi Chancey. The answer is yes. I have done exactly that and it worked perfectly with never a problem.

Avaiojet · « **Reply #2 on:** February 16, 2016, 06:12:19 AM »

Quote from: Glenn (Gravitywell) Reach on February 16, 2016, 12:03:24 AM

Hi Chancey. The answer is yes. I have done exactly that and it worked perfectly with never a problem.

Glenn,

He could also use an extension, which may place the mount holes in an undrilled area.

Motorman · « **Reply #3 on:** February 16, 2016, 06:54:43 AM »

It's best to plug the old holes to keep oil from soaking into the motor mount wood. When you drill the new holes use a piece of music wire to put epoxy into the holes to soak into the wood. Don't use too much, you want to be able to see through the hole, it makes it easier to re-drill if necessary after the glue's dry. Also, if you can scarf away the plywood where the motor sits and replace it with maple or aluminum epoxied in place, that area will last more than 3 flights.

MM

Chancey Chorney · « **Reply #4 on:** February 16, 2016, 02:39:18 PM »

Great, thank you for the help. I will be putting in the dowel with epoxy shortly, and when dry I will drill my new holes and also putting in a light coat of epoxy in them too. I just took a look at the fuselage and my new holes will be in front of the previous front hole, and the new rear one will be between the previous holes.

Chancey Chorney · « **Reply #5 on:** February 16, 2016, 02:55:50 PM »

Ok. So here are a couple of pictures of what I was just asking about. It appears to not be as bad as I thought originally. Being a Banshee and I know of the mods done to them, would I possibly be better off to cut the nose a bit shorter and slightly ream two of the holes to accommodate the Fox .35, or would I be better off doing my original thing? Sorry for all the questions, but I am sure that there may be more!

Chancey Chorney · « **Reply #6 on:** February 16, 2016, 02:59:10 PM »

Picture in the previous post is what I was going to do, and the picture here is what i now think would be better, although your opinions matter most as I have zero experience when it comes to this as it is my first big build.

Tim Wescott · « **Reply #7 on:** February 16, 2016, 03:03:03 PM »

The Banshee, AFAIK, was originally designed for an unmuffled Fox, so it'll probably balance OK with an unmuffled Fox.

I'd say that if the holes fit EXACTLY, then trimming the nose by a quarter-inch or whatever will be easiest and best. If you can't just run screws into the holes and bolt it together, then you really ought to be plugging the holes and redrilling anyway, even if you shorten the nose a bit.

Avaiojet · « **Reply #8 on:** February 16, 2016, 03:24:04 PM »

Chancey,

Good photos, they enlarge nicely.

charles

Motorman · « **Reply #9 on:** February 17, 2016, 08:45:18 AM »

When you re-position the engine try to make it so you're not drilling into the old holes at all because the dowel will pull the drill off it's course.

You can forget about the engine until you get the plane almost done then do a weight and balance check to see where you need the engine to get a balance point just ahead of the wing spar.

MM

BillP · « **Reply #10 on:** February 17, 2016, 02:58:23 PM »

My completely stock Banshee balanced perfectly with an un-muffed Fox 35 and plastic spinner...no trim weight needed for the cg.

Chancey Chorney · « **Reply #11 on:** February 17, 2016, 07:29:31 PM »

Thanks again.

Paul Smith · « **Reply #12 on:** February 19, 2016, 09:27:15 AM »

Sig Banshee's were quite the rage when they first hit the market in the middle 1970's. Virtually every one came out very nose-heavy and ended up having the engine moved back. I would just move the engine back right now and sidestep the issue of the old holes.

Chancey Chorney · « **Reply #13 on:** February 19, 2016, 03:56:06 PM »

Just a little update. The other night, I had pushed some dowels in the holes tightly as was stated earlier. I installed the wingtip plates and tip braces. Followed by the leadout guides. I went for simplicity and mounted them solid as per the plans on this one, as it is my first big build and am not planning on any serious competition. I filled them in above to make covering easier and have just to carve and sand that tip as well as sheet the center section, followed by a final sanding before installing the wing in the fuselage. I am now considering going e-power, but that was just in my head for the past couple days, and not 100% sure on that as I wanted to build it as per the plans. I will try to get a few pictures up later this evening.

Chancey Chorney · « **Reply #14 on:** February 20, 2016, 11:13:44 PM »

Just another update. Last night I sheeted the center section as planned and was going to take pictures, but it was very late so I thought I would take them today. So I got up and we went ice fishing. Got home, unclamped the sheeting, got the camera, then realized something. Major screw up on my part! I could not figure out why last night they gave so much extra center section sheeting. I sheeted the center section between the two center most two R-1 ribs. Take note I said between the TWO center most ribs. Now I had a big dilemma. What to do. So, considering I use yellow wood glue, I cut out the sheeting I installed along the inner side of the ribs, and along the leading edge, center spar, trailing edge sheeting. Left with the glue on the wood, I carefully, to the best of my abilities, cut the yellow glue off. So I now made new sheeting for the FOUR inner most ribs and installed it on both top and bottom of the wing. It is now clamped and drying as I type and will again do my best to take pictures tomorrow, or later today as it is after midnight now.

Chancey Chorney · « **Reply #15 on:** February 23, 2016, 06:59:38 PM »

Well, it has been a bit longer than anticipated, but here are a couple of pictures as promised earlier. Just taken minutes ago. The wing is now ready to trial fit the ailerons which have to be assembled, then installed and covered. Now I also have a couple of questions.

1. I still have to shape, join, and hinge the horizontal stabilizer and elevators also. But after they are complete, I am hoping this weekend, what is the preferred order of assembly? Attach wing first, rudder/vertical stabilizer, then horizontal stabilizer/elevator?

2. What is the best way to attach the surfaces once ready for final installation? I have Gorilla Glue wood glue, CA, 5 minute epoxy, and 15 minute epoxy available to use. The parts are a snug fit. Whichever I use, where is it best to apply the glue? On the wing just before it enters the fuselage? Tail surfaces the same (horizontal/elevator)?

Thank you in advance for any help you may be able to provide.

Chancey Chorney · « **Reply #16 on:** February 23, 2016, 07:01:30 PM »

Oh, and one more quick question. Is it just me, or is the inboard wing 1" longer than the outboard? This is what my measurements of my wing and plans tell me?

Motorman · « **Reply #17 on:** February 23, 2016, 09:09:59 PM »

Glue the wing in first, it makes it easier to line up the horizontal stab then last the rudder. What I do is to cover the wing and flaps then put the flaps on the wing. Then I cut a slot in the fuselage so the flaps can go through then plug the slot later.

Put the wing in and get it where you want it then zap it with CA anywhere you think it will stick. After that, mix up some epoxy and work it into the joint ending with a small fillet. If you have some filler like micro balloons put some in but leave the mix fairly wet. If there are any big gaps you can coat little balsa sticks with glue and stuff them in. Do inboard side, let cure then outboard side so the glue doesn't run.

For the tail much the same. It must be lined up straight and square with the wing to fly right.

1" longer inboard wing is ok.

MM

Chancey Chorney · « **Reply #18 on:** February 23, 2016, 09:15:40 PM »

Thank you.

Leester · « **Reply #19 on:** March 02, 2016, 07:50:49 AM »

Chancey, for future reference. This comes with Brodak kits

Dane Martin · « **Reply #20 on:** March 02, 2016, 08:39:12 AM »

Quote from: Chancey Chorney on February 23, 2016, 06:59:38 PM

Well, it has been a bit longer than anticipated, but here are a couple of pictures as promised earlier. Just taken minutes ago. The wing is now ready to trial fit the ailerons which have to be assembled, then installed and covered. Now I also have a couple of questions.

1. I still have to shape, join, and hinge the horizontal stabilizer and elevators also. But after they are complete, I am hoping this weekend, what is the preferred order of assembly? Attach wing first, rudder/vertical stabilizer, then horizontal stabilizer/elevator?

2. What is the best way to attach the surfaces once ready for final installation? I have Gorilla Glue wood glue, CA, 5 minute epoxy, and 15 minute epoxy available to use. The parts are a snug fit. Whichever I use, where is it best to apply the glue? On the wing just before it enters the fuselage? Tail surfaces the same (horizontal/elevator)?

Thank you in advance for any help you may be able to provide.

Chancey, monokote everything first, then assemble it....

Chancey Chorney · « **Reply #21 on:** March 02, 2016, 07:58:32 PM »

@Leester - Thanks for the scans. I will print those out.

@Dane Martin - Thanks for the encouragement. I hate to say it, BUT, this one will be a hybrid. Doped fuselage, flaps, and all tail surfaces, and plasticised wing! I really wanted to give my best at making it look great, but than realized that it is my first big plane and will probably end up with more where I could do this. So, I will make it as it is, a FLIER! I am kind of liking the 'clear' look of Doculam, as I have a partial roll at my disposal. Using it would also give me a reason to attempt painting it as I heard many do.