Typically on a profile I slide the wing into the fuselage, and get everything lined up.  When its where I want it, I tack glue it with thin CA in a couple spots and doublecheck the alignment.  When its tacked and aligned properly, more CA to glue it in place.  When the CA has kicked and the wing is permenant I follow up with epoxy.  Applied to the joint then heated with a monokote heat gun, it thins out and flows into the joint.  It can take a couple applications, and then a final layer of epoxy with microballoons for the fillets. 

The #1 problem with a profile is going to be making the fuselage to wing joint strong enough that the engine vibration won't break it loose.  If it comes loose the engine won't run right. 

AR should be fine, but I tend to stay away from it since I'm impatient.

I always had a problem with this joint in younger days. The problem is getting a hole in the fus. that exactly matches the wing section. Failing this, getting enough "filler type" glue in to fill the gaps. Putting plenty of glue on the wing and sliding the wing in place was never 100% satisfactory for me.
Eventually I developed a system :- Make the fus. and wing as per normal. If anything, make the hole for the wing in the fus. a bit undersize. As you slide the wing into place, note where it hits the fus., and trim a little of the fus. away, until the wing slides in with a reasonable fit. Take care to keep the wing angle of attack at zero or whatever. Then cut the fus. in half, along the wing centre line. Spread plenty of "filler glue" on the wing top and bottom where the fus. will sit. Add the top half of fus. to the top, and the bottom half of fus. to the bottom. Remember to put glue along the length of the fus. also. Stick a few pins at strategic points to hold everything in alignment and in place. Wind a length of 1/4" flat rubber, (F/F motor? [unlubricated!]) from end to end, or alternatively lots of tightish rubber bands. Ensure everything is still in line, and leave to set. Q.E.D.
This way you know you don't have any unseen gaps between wing and fus.
24hr. Araldite used to be an excellent "filler glue", in blue and yellow tubes, over here, (England). Sadly, we now can buy only a much thinner, runny, 24 hr. Araldite, in white and blue tubes.

I make a bunch of pinholes into the fuselage wood and the center section of the wing.  I put the wing in place, tack it two or three places with CA, put bits of balsa into the gaps and then make a glue fillet with Sigment around the joint on the outer wing (may try a leather fillet).  Let dry, make sure there are no holes.  Mix up 2 hr epoxy and apply to the joint from the inside.  Hold wing vertical and heat joint with hair dryer until it stops bubbling, adding epoxy as needed.  Hang up by leadouts  and let set overnight.

Making a tight fit between fuse and wing helps a bunch. When building from scratch I cut opening directly from a rib checking parallel line with stab. Usually kit fuses are slightly undersized, not always the case, in which case various gap filling methods are needed. I line fuse on wing and mark wherever wood needs to be widened. Take out sandpaper and remove wood, refit, etc. Repeat process until opening moves smoothly over ribs and sheeting. Often spend about an hour on this. Checking opening, marking pinch spots, hitting it with sandpaper. Originally I did this with a dremel. The results weren't as precise, plenty of gouges that needed some fill. Sandpaper works fast enough and produces a much better fit. Vertical alignment of fuse in relationship to wing also needs to be checked. Sanding of opening needs to be as close as possible to 90 degrees. Nice sidebar to this process is ham handed souls like myself can manage some quality wood work. Slow and easy. Sweet Jazz on the stereo helps my jittery self.

Thanks to all for the input