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Author Topic: pin holes in silk span  (Read 1430 times)

Offline Leester

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pin holes in silk span
« on: November 26, 2006, 04:00:19 PM »
I am painting a wing on a Dare Sporthawk which will be used for practicing . I put 4 coats of dope on the wing sanding lightly with 400 then cleaned with alchohol and painted with white Lustre kote. There are bunches of what look like pin holes in the open bays where the paint won't fill. Since you don't use primer on open bays how do I prevent this from happening on a plane that I really care about the finish. I'm not happy with this but considering what the plane is for I'm not going to strip the finish. Help!
Leester
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Re: pin holes in silk span
« Reply #1 on: November 26, 2006, 04:10:28 PM »
More clear dope before sanding.
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Offline Leester

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Re: pin holes in silk span
« Reply #2 on: November 26, 2006, 04:43:11 PM »
Is there a way to test to find out if you've put enough on ?
Leester
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Re: pin holes in silk span
« Reply #3 on: November 26, 2006, 04:45:16 PM »
When its shiny all over you have enough on.
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Offline Bill Little

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Re: pin holes in silk span
« Reply #4 on: November 26, 2006, 04:47:29 PM »
They show up in the blocking coats if you need more clear.  I get a shine with the clear before I go on.  Just a good "sheen" to the paper.  Can you sand Lustercoat easily?  I have never used it, but if so, I would wet sand the wings with 600 and repaint.  Just be careful around the edges and when there is a change in "color", don't hit that edge anymore.

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Offline Leester

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Re: pin holes in silk span
« Reply #5 on: November 26, 2006, 04:56:00 PM »
I've never sanded Lustre kote but since this is a practice plane I'll let the paint dry till next weekend and give it a try. Thanks for the help.
Leester
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Offline Jim Thomerson

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Re: pin holes in silk span
« Reply #6 on: November 26, 2006, 06:45:08 PM »
If you are brushing the clear, you keep doing so until you don't see any going through the silkspan.  Same is true for silk.

Offline Steve Helmick

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Re: pin holes in silk span
« Reply #7 on: November 26, 2006, 09:07:54 PM »
Ty...What does the "Rejuvinator" do? It sounds to me like it would be a mix of thinner, retarder, and plasticizer. No?  n~ Steve
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Offline Bill Little

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Re: pin holes in silk span
« Reply #8 on: December 14, 2006, 09:05:49 AM »
(snip)
One trick I learned many, many years go with silk or silkspan, is when brushing on the first two or three coats of clear, be sure to hold the wings over your head, No joke.  This gets the dope into the weave, but it will not drip through, and by constant brushing is tends to stay on the surface more and seals quicker.  Or brush it on quick and then flip the wing over and do the other side of the same wing. ie inboard/inboard. Then do outboard/outboard.  It goes quick an seals faster this way. This technique has been around since the 40's at least. #^

Hi Ty,

When I have suggested this, I got the feeling that some thought I was ready for the "rubber wall" room!

It works, and the ONLY way I will dope silk!  y1

Some "old" methods are still best!   #^
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Offline dennis lipsett

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Re: pin holes in silk span
« Reply #9 on: December 14, 2006, 09:41:50 AM »
The last plane that I silked was about 1988, After attaching the silk I sprayed the dope on from the very first coat. Starting with a very highly thinned mixture for 3 coats and progressivly going to a standard thinned mix. It worked well.
I did it and would do it again because of shoulder problems. I can't hold things up for very long periods of time. These is still something magical about a well silked plane.
Dennis

Offline Bob Zambelli

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Re: pin holes in silk span
« Reply #10 on: December 14, 2006, 12:45:03 PM »
I agree with Dennis - I have been spraying all the finish on my planes for years, both with silk and silkspan. Very uniform ans no drip-through.
It's surprising how quickly it fills and there is minimal sanding required.
You can do the whole thing in one night.

Bob Z.

Offline john e. holliday

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Re: pin holes in silk span
« Reply #11 on: December 14, 2006, 08:19:37 PM »
Now a character I know and some of may does not get on computors as he says they are a waste of time.  His name Rusty Brown.  He states that on silk, silkspan, nylon or any porous material you thin the dope to brushing consistancy.  Dip the brush in the dope and make a pass over the covering one direction.  He says do not, repeat do not go back over the dame area with nest strike of the brush.  He says the second pass over the same area is what pushes the dope thru the weave.  Takes time, but, it works.  DOC Holliday
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