Author Topic: Paint Repair (Read 973 times)

James Mills · « **on:** June 30, 2007, 05:51:45 PM »

I finally finished the paint job on the Hallmark I posted pics of a while back, still had a few odd and ends to take care of so I took it with me to St. Louis to finish up while we were visiting family (had lousy weather everyday so got nothing done). I ended up putting a small hole in the nose (of course top center in plain view instead of on the bottom). The color is dope and the clear is urethane, anything different repairing this over an all dope finish?

Thanks,

James

Randy Powell · « **Reply #1 on:** June 30, 2007, 11:30:32 PM »

James,

Here's the way I do it. Other methods may vary.

I would sand around the repair, cutting the clear back maybe an inch from the area all around. Dress the repair as you normally would and use an airbrush to shoot color dope on the area, being careful not to shoot any on the clear. I usually tap out to the edge of the clear I've sanded back. Once that's done. do any light sanding you need to do to clean up overspray or whatever, Then put some tape on another inch or so past the edge of the clear (back onto the clear). Then mix up the clearcoat and shoot it over the repair area and onto the edge of the sanded clear underneath. Once you get that on, empty the gun and fill with urethane reducer and lightly (that's LIGHTLY) shoot it over the entire area. This allows the clear to flow out onto the good clear and softens it slightly to get a good bond.

The point here is to not shoot dope over the the clearcoat. It will make it wrinkle up and you won't be happy.

Randy Powell · « **Reply #2 on:** July 01, 2007, 11:02:09 AM »

Ty,

Yea, once it's dry, I sand the whole area with 2000 grit to dull it all out and finish the blending then use rubbing compound, finishing compound and show glaze. If done right, it's just about undetectable.

One of the concerns I had when I started using this method (dope with catalyzed poly clear over the top) was repair. The trick of shooting reducer (a mix of something like 2% paint and 98% reducer) over the repair before it catalyzes comes from Bill Wilson by way of Brad Walker. It works very well to blend the new clear into the old. I've had to do maybe 6 or 7 repairs like this and have had really good success. Biggest issue has been getting the color even, not the clear on the top. It's better if you can go out to natural dividing lines like panel lines or color changes. But sometimes you just have to get creative.

Tom Niebuhr · « **Reply #3 on:** July 02, 2007, 08:28:48 AM »

When my "Top Hat" was new, I dropped a metal ruler on the top of the nose..it landed on edge. It is a basecoat/ clearcoat finish. The repair method is the same.

Bill Wilson helped me me with the repair as Randy described. Now I can't find where it was repaired. And I new where it was!

Randy Powell · « **Reply #4 on:** July 02, 2007, 08:51:19 AM »

Tom,

I did much the same. I had to cut a hatch into the bottom of my Cobra. Once done, it's just about undetectable. There's a very slight color variation as the only clue. The clearcoat is flawless.

Greg Hart · « **Reply #5 on:** July 25, 2007, 01:25:12 AM »

Randy,
I use Brodak paint. I guess I could use your same process with this. My question is is the Brodak Rejuvenator work the same as the urethane reducer. haven't used the Rejuvenator. Do you know the applications it's used for?

Author Topic: Paint Repair (Read 973 times)

James Mills

Paint Repair

Randy Powell

Re: Paint Repair

Randy Powell

Re: Paint Repair

Tom Niebuhr

Re: Paint Repair

Randy Powell

Re: Paint Repair

Greg Hart

Re: Paint Repair