Hello
Well i am trying to put together BRODAK SUPER CLOWN ,backing up a little i am not a builder or even a reasonable mechanic type so in trying to install the elevater hinges with ca i have made them non operatable all 4 hinges solid as a rock no movement i have pulled and pulled trying to remove not working do you have any thoughts or do you think i will have to scrap them and start over.I have been actually trying to get into this sport for a couple seasons with little or no luck i know this isnt that tough but i am certainly trying to make it that way

Frustrated in Toledo
Ron

As a second-to-last resort cut through the hinges, then either carefully slice them out of the structure and replace them, or just put new hinges in next to the ones you've got.

If there's a club nearby join it now.  Folks will want to see you flying, and will help you out.  With luck, you may even be able to buy someone's plane all ready to fly, or needing just an engine (i.e., a lot more 'almost ready to fly' than an ARF that you'd get from Brodaks).  Or, if you've got the pocketbook for it, buy and ARF and have someone assemble it for you.

This file details about the only safe way to use CA on barrel-type hinges. Dipping the barrel in melted Vaseline is one of the key tricks. The silkspan is a brilliant idea. If your slots are too big, add a second layer of silkspan.

There's gotta be some help available in Ohio. Ask and ye shall receive.  Steve

I will further add to this :

Installing Pin style hinges properly:

Best way I found :

Fold the hinge in 1/ 2 and get a container lid - pour in some thin oil - after run oil or lubricating oil
Dip the barrel into the oil only - not the entire hinge, only the 1 mm barrel.

Use 5 minute epoxy - spred a VERY VERY VERY thin layer of epoxy over one side of the hinge.
Slide it into place 1 1/2 first - set the depth of the barrel to be level.

Let the 1 / 2 dry.

I usually wipe the oil away - then reapply with a little drop of oil into the barrel again -

repeat the process for installing the flap into the hinge.

This will result in free hinges that you cannot pull out .

Here is a trick that works and one I've used very often on barrel hinges. Somthing to remember for the future. Ths only works if you cover the elevator or flaps after assembly. Once you have made the hinge slots, insert the hinges and mount the elevator / flap. Next use a sharp drill bit that is a little bit smaller than a round toothpick, and caerfully drill a hole through the center of the hinge, right through the stab / wing trailing edge. Then coat round toothpics with a bit of epoxy and push them through the holes you made. Pinning the hinges with the toothpics. When the epoxy is dry, carefully trim off the toothpics close to the surface the sand smooth. This method eliminates any chance of getting glue in the hinge.

Don't put any glue on the hinge. Put the epoxy into the slot first, then slide the hinge in. No glue will squeegy out to the hinge barrel that way.

    Thank You All
I appreciate all the good advice i believe i will take Mr Hinton up on his offer to help
Have a good day
Ron

I believe that stab is only 1/8" thick. Cut of the hinges and sand the edge smooth and use cloth hinges. You will be all done in 30 minutes.
Ed

The other alternative is to use the "Monocoat Hinge" system.  These are super quick and easy to use.  A lot of info has been posted on the forum about them so a detailed explanation is readily available, if interested. 

And Taking up Mr, Hinton is a GREAT idea!  Will is "top drawer", and will be a great help to you in trying to get started.  Really, get to know Will real well. (and ask him about the "Army Tent") 

Big Bear

Thanks Bill & Doc, you're gonna make me expand my hat size if you keep this up!  Blessings.  (Next book will be a while yet, Doc, but I'm working on it.)