Over a decade ago, I conclusively determined that the time-honored practice of gluing in nylon barrel hinges with epoxy is simply not for me and stuck with the cloth hinges that had served me so well. Then, after reading about it on an R/C forum a few years ago, I tried some Zap Pacer Hinge Glue and liked it a lot. The only thing I didn't like about it was having to buy a single purpose glue. Then, last year, a flying buddy showed me his CA-based technique and that was it. It's so quick and easy for me that I now use it exclusively with consistently great results. One disclaimer, however: this method is intended for models with a painted finishe applied after control surface attachment. It would not work well at all where control surfaces are attached after they are finished.
The CA method goes like this. Cut hinge slots in your usual way -- just make sure they fit reasonably snug without significant gaps that have to be filled by glue. Once the flight control surfaces are shaped and are ready to join, perforate both sides of the control surface over the hinge slot using a small T pin, pushing the pin into the slot cavity. A perforation pattern of two rows of three holes, evenly spaced over the slot area is sufficient for the standard size Dubro hinges. Install hinges, align surfaces, and lay on a flat surface. Using a thin CA applicator tip , apply a few small drops of thin CA glue to each perf area -- enough to wick glue into each of the perforated holes. Don't go crazy with the glue. If badly overdone, it could wick out into the hinge barrel, ruining the hinge. Wait a few seconds for the CA to kick, flip the control surface over and glue the other side. Once the gluing is done, lightly sand the perforated areas (~200 grit), apply a little light filler to them, then sand smooth. The CA bonds aggressively to the nylon hinge material and the hinges cannot be removed without taking out wood with 'em.
For cases where the CA method is not suitable, Zap Pacer Hinge Glue is purpose-built for gluing nylon hinges and unlike epoxy, actually bonds to the hinge tab surface. The only recommendation I'd add for this stuff is to fashion an applicator tip for the glue bottle so slots can be quickly and easily filled with glue. The glue bottle is better suited for Robart hinge points than barrel hinges -- probably because that's what the R/C'ers tend to use. Fill all slots with glue, join the surfaces with hinges, then wipe up the excess glue with a damp cloth -- about like cleaning up Elmer's Glue-All. No muss, no fuss, and bullet proof hinge mounts. The glue cures much more slowly than CA, so you get a little time to make adjustments with this product. In any case, it's far easier for clumsy people like me to use than epoxy.
Topic: Installing hinges (Read 3337 times)
