Author Topic: MonoKote (Read 2533 times)

RC Storick · « **on:** December 16, 2006, 07:35:18 PM »

OK guys I need some help. I am going to MonoKote the wings on a test plane I am building. To keep the weight down. I will be painting the fuse,stab and ele. The question I have is is there some kind of paint that sticks to MonoKote? The second question is if I do trim on it can I use regular MonoKote or do I have to use trim strips?

It has been a long time sense I have done one of these and I have forgotten allot about doing it. Is there a trim cutting tool for the LE and TE?

We will see how I do.. Trying to keep it around 40 oz 670 sqs. PA.40 on a pipe. The plane is Viper 7 with Randy Smith AERO-dynamics.

Leester · « **Reply #1 on:** December 16, 2006, 08:12:13 PM »

Robert: Lustre Kote is made to match and spray on Mono Kote. You can use Mono Kote or the Trim Sheets, there is a solvent you can use to stick Mono Kote to Mono Kote if you don't want to try it with the iron simply called Trim Solvent.They also have a trim cutting tool. Tower will carry all of it.

Paul Taylor · « **Reply #2 on:** December 16, 2006, 08:16:05 PM »

Robert,
I could be wrong, but I think I remember reading some place that you have to "scuff" the monokote a little when painting over it. But PLEASE double check me on this.

Paul

roger gebhart · « **Reply #3 on:** December 17, 2006, 09:51:37 AM »

Seems like the trim solvent was a spray similar to CA kicker bottle a bit messy but if you clean up as you squeeze the air out . it worked well. Much easier to position trim with than trim kote. I have some rc stuff that the trimcoat has long since starting to let go. Not with the the trim solvent. Use the same as what you cover with. I suppose its still available. rog

Leester · « **Reply #4 on:** December 17, 2006, 10:33:37 AM »

The MonoKote trim solvent is not spray. You aply with a cloth or what ever.

Mark Scarborough · « **Reply #5 on:** December 17, 2006, 11:29:59 AM »

RC I have cut and pasted a quote from a post on the "other" place from a thread that regarded monokote. it is from my reply, there is quite a bit of information a fair amount over there that was way off post but perhaps this will give you some ideas. I use windex and trim solvent with regular monokote for trim.
begin quote""""
In my experience, I have used windex,( I have concerns about the residue it leaves behind as well but as used it is a non issue) I apply the trim peice, it is heat set monokote not trim type. after very carefully making sure to squeegee out all liquid I allow to sit 24 hours then using a high quality artists brush(dontcha love how they always specify a high quality whatever) I traced a fine line of trim solvent around the entire perimeter of the applied peice. The solvent will wick under the edge by capillary action and the peice will be stuck. If by some chance you have not allowed all the "slip sheet" fluid to evaporate then there could be issues with bubbling in the sun.
Dan I dont think you saw it, but the Twister that Dave Miller had at Salem, red white and blue was the last one I used this trick on. It worked quite well. I hooked a pict of Daves Twisted Sister showing the trim "dart" I added, Lest you think I am a Monokote marvel,only the wings are monokote, the fuse is painted .
As far as applying the sticky type monokote trim, I do NOT reccomend using windex for all the chemical issues stated, I use a quart of water with any dishwashing but Dawn in it. I dont trust Dawn since it messed up a paint job I was working on, something about the agents added to Sheet the water off your dishes I suspect coupled with my suspicious nature?

end quote
there is a trim tool made uses #11 xacto blades works ok in most situations available from tower. make sure you buy a box of blades, that plastic reaks havoc on the edge.

http://www.clstunt.com/htdocs/dc/dcboard.php?az=show_topic&forum=103&topic_id=254521&mesg_id=254521&page=

Jim Morris · « **Reply #6 on:** December 17, 2006, 03:40:17 PM »

I have had real good luck using lusterkote over monokote and painted surfaces. Its 100% fuel proof and does a nice finish if it sprays good. Be careful pulling the tape up.

Rudy Taube · « **Reply #7 on:** December 17, 2006, 03:59:42 PM »

Hi Robert,

1st, Thank you again for creating such a wonderful forum. It is perfect for us "Retreads", it allows us to learn (relearn? ;-) more about CL.

Follow Marks excellent post and you will be a happy MonoKote user.

I would only add a few comments:

1. Mark is right, sealing the edges is important. There are several ways to do it.

   The MonoKote Trim solvent he uses works well. But, I can't stand the strong, pungent, smell, so I stopped using it long ago.
   After using Mark's application method, most of us use a MonoKote iron to seal down the edges. (a small sealing iron works best, but the large one is OK too) Just do approx. 1/8" or less of the edge of the trim. This works well, and will not cause any bubbles. It only takes a light touch with the hot iron. With our soft, light, balsa used in CL, we have to be careful not to make any dents.
   In addition to the above, I also use clear NAIL POLISH on any seams that may come in contact with fuel/oil exhaust. The little brush in the jar is perfect for our use.

2. I would like to highlight Mark's comment about waiting 24 hours after the trim application. This is CRITICAL. Any movement, or disturbance of the plane may cause the trim not to stick properly. Set the model in a safe place, with no movement, and you will be pleased with the results. :-)

3. You may want to purchase (or get your club to buy) the excellent MonoKote DVD from Tower. It covers everything, and all the members will enjoy it! I think the MonoKote wing, with painted fuselage is a good solution to finishing our CL planes. I have a VERY heavy Cardinal that demonstrates how much weight can build up on a painted wing! ;-)

I'm glad to see an experienced and respected CL modeler like you using MonoKote. Maybe us long time MonoKote users will not be Tared and Featherd for "Heresy" after all? ;-)

roger gebhart · « **Reply #8 on:** December 17, 2006, 04:54:12 PM »

I said it had been a while but I sure wish I had known to do it like that. rog

Walter Hicks · « **Reply #9 on:** December 17, 2006, 07:47:46 PM »

A little tip that works very well. The Lustercoat does not spray well out of the can. It is way too thick for trim. So spray it into a bottle ,thin it well with Acetone and spray it with an
airbrush. Try it you will like it. Walter Hicks.

Rudy Taube · « **Reply #10 on:** December 17, 2006, 11:50:47 PM »

Hi Walter, and perspective Lusterkote users,

For those who have a spray set up that sounds like a great idea. It would be hard to beat the results from a good airbrush artist! :-)

For those of us that do not use a spray set up, (or for those of us who are too lazy to learn how to use an airbrush! ;-) we can still get very good results with the Lustercote cans. But, it takes a little extra care to get it to work well.

I just painted the wheel pants on my 37% Extra 300L with this paint. They are in three colors, and they turned out better than I hoped for. I have used this paint, from the can, for the past 10 years. The following info. has been posted on many forums over the years. I will just try to hit the highlights:

1. The cans/paint MUST be heated. I just put them in a container of very hot tap water for a while, changing the hot water a few times to keep the paint warm.

2. Shake till your arm falls off. Then use the other arm! ;-)

3. Use steel wool to rough up the MonoKote surface and take the shine off of the area to be painted, inside the masking tape.

4. If you are painting bare wood, or silkspan, use the Lusterkote brand primer. THIS IS CRITICAL. If you are a paint expert, I am sure there are other primers that will work. But if you are not an expert, please stick with their brand. It works. Allmost all the problems some have had with this paint has to do with using improper primer. And/or not using the other tips copied here.

5. Go to the LusterKote web site for excellent instructions:

http://www.monokote.com/lustrekote/lustrekote.html

6. The color match to MonoKote is very good.

7. Please DO NOT try to use all the paint. Plan on stopping at about 1/4 full. Past this, you run the risk of the spray splattering, and spitting. Now if your going for a psychedelic effect, then use it all! ;-)

8. Like most paints, a few light coats are better than one heavy one.

9. Be patient. You can do it faster, but I try to wait at least 48 hours before I mask the paint for any trim.

10. For nitro, wait at least several+ days before using. Less for gas, or just a few hours for Electric. ;-)

Again, these are hints from many people over the past decade. If a "paint challenged" person like me can get great results, then these hints may be worth trying. .... Good Luck :-)

Quote from: Walter Hicks on December 17, 2006, 07:47:46 PM

A little tip that works very well. The Lustercoat does not spray well out of the can. It is way too thick for trim. So spray it into a bottle ,thin it well with Acetone and spray it with an
airbrush. Try it you will like it. Walter Hicks.

Author Topic: MonoKote (Read 2533 times)

RC Storick

MonoKote

Leester

Re: MonoKote

Paul Taylor

Re: MonoKote

roger gebhart

Re: MonoKote

Leester

Re: MonoKote

Mark Scarborough

Re: MonoKote

Jim Morris

Re: MonoKote

Rudy Taube

Re: MonoKote

roger gebhart

Re: MonoKote

Walter Hicks

Re: MonoKote

Rudy Taube

Re: MonoKote