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  • October 25, 2020, 06:29:16 PM

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Author Topic: Molded Wing Tips  (Read 713 times)

Online Motorman

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Molded Wing Tips
« on: October 16, 2020, 06:54:14 PM »
Anyone ever try to mold fiberglass or CF wing tips instead of carving out balsa blocks?


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Offline Dan McEntee

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Re: Molded Wing Tips
« Reply #1 on: October 16, 2020, 08:50:39 PM »
Twice. More work than was needed. Stuck with  hollowed blocks or flat tips. D>K

  Yeah, that would only be useful if you used the same tip shape on all your models or you made multiple different shaped molds that you could go back to.. Not a terrible idea but most people like a little variety.
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Online Motorman

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Re: Molded Wing Tips
« Reply #2 on: October 16, 2020, 09:11:52 PM »
If you made one for an S-1 Ringmaster or a Twister you might sell thousands.

Mainly wondering how many layers of what kind of cloth would be ridged enough.

Sorry, just hate carving blocks out.


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Offline Perry Rose

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Re: Molded Wing Tips
« Reply #3 on: October 17, 2020, 05:43:10 AM »
Bob Hunt molded some using balsa sheet.
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Offline Dan McEntee

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Re: Molded Wing Tips
« Reply #4 on: October 17, 2020, 11:53:08 AM »
  There have been R'C models with vacu-formed plastic wing tips, and I'm sure it's not new to control line models with all of the small kit manufacturers there have been over the years. If I were to do it, that is the way I would go, but then you may have some paint adhesion issues, or just try to dope on some tissue strips so you have a good base for paint.
   One way or another, you are going to have to carve at least one!!
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Online Howard Rush

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Re: Molded Wing Tips
« Reply #5 on: October 17, 2020, 02:13:34 PM »
I wonder how light you could print one.  It would be cool to include the weight box and leadout guides in the prints.
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Offline FLOYD CARTER

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Re: Molded Wing Tips
« Reply #6 on: October 17, 2020, 02:29:35 PM »
I've discovered that some kits are using molded plastic or fiberglass parts.  They NEVER fit right, even with a lot of "fudging".  Then there is the impossible task of getting these parts to blend in to the rest of the balsa structure.  No thanks.
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Online Mike Alimov

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Re: Molded Wing Tips
« Reply #7 on: October 17, 2020, 07:39:57 PM »

Mainly wondering how many layers of what kind of cloth would be ridged enough.

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Two layers of 1.5 oz fiberglass on outside and one layer on the inside, with 2-2.5 mm blue construction foam in between, vacuum bagged overnight and then post- cured for 2 hours at 150 F.  Beats balsa in both weight and rigidity.
I agree with people who say this is too much work if you build a different airplane every time. 
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Offline Dan McEntee

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Re: Molded Wing Tips
« Reply #8 on: October 18, 2020, 11:53:54 AM »
I wonder how light you could print one.  It would be cool to include the weight box and leadout guides in the prints.

    This is probably the best idea yet. You can design in the proper thickness where you need extra strength and help control the weight. you would need to and the surface smooth to remove the steps from the printing process anyway, so you could allow for that when sizing it to the end rib. I think this idea has some real merit to it.
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Offline Randy Powell

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Re: Molded Wing Tips
« Reply #9 on: October 19, 2020, 03:38:43 PM »
>> It would be cool to include the weight box and leadout guides in the prints.<<

Yea, get on that, Howard.
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Offline FLOYD CARTER

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Re: Molded Wing Tips
« Reply #10 on: Today at 03:58:08 PM »
Some like to make an easy job harder.  Fiberglass molds mean carving a plug, mixing smelly, messy stuff.  Vacuum bagging?  Who has that equipment?  Solid carved balsa is wasteful, so I build-up balsa wingtips using an extra rib or 2 and planking with 1/16" sheet.  Resulting tip looks smooth without "starved horse" look, as in most Noblers.
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