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Author Topic: Minwax Polycrylic  (Read 1896 times)

Offline Dick Fowler

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Minwax Polycrylic
« on: January 15, 2007, 06:57:43 AM »
I haven't heard much about it in a while. About three or four years ago it was the talk of the forums. This stuff was getting rave reviews as a balsa filler... even tasted good on Corn Flakes!  ;D

I didn't like it because it always seemd a bit gummy when sanding... no matter how long I let it sit beforehand. It did have any advantage of low odor. Anyone still using it?
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Offline Jim Morris

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Re: Minwax Polycrylic
« Reply #1 on: January 15, 2007, 07:46:00 AM »
Hi Dick,  I still use it. Ive had good luck using it to put the silk span on then paint with Lusterkote primer and paint.

Offline minnesotamodeler

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Re: Minwax Polycrylic
« Reply #2 on: January 15, 2007, 09:03:53 AM »
Yup, the water base Minwax works good for a covering job, shrinks up nice too, BUT it is NOT fuelproof; ya gotta put something else over it.  I think the oil-(or solvent-)based stuff is fairly fuelproof.

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Offline RandySmith

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Re: Minwax Polycrylic
« Reply #3 on: January 15, 2007, 09:57:00 AM »
I haven't heard much about it in a while. About three or four years ago it was the talk of the forums. This stuff was getting rave reviews as a balsa filler... even tasted good on Corn Flakes!  ;D

I didn't like it because it always seemd a bit gummy when sanding... no matter how long I let it sit beforehand. It did have any advantage of low odor. Anyone still using it?

HI Dick

The problem with it is that other clearcoats or sealers don't go over it very well, and you need to have something over it that will fuel proof the coats, It is not fuel proof and  gets  sticky when fuel or oil gets on it

Randy

Offline Jerry Bohn

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Re: Minwax Polycrylic
« Reply #4 on: January 15, 2007, 11:46:58 AM »
I have a R/C friend who finishes his scale plane with water base Polycrylic. He uses it to apply 3/4oz fiberglass. After fiberglass is dry he uses one or two light coats of Polycrylic, with sanding inbetween coats. Then automotive primer as a final filler, sands a lot of that off and re-applies a couple times and sands some more. Final coat of primer and then color dope. Very good looking but not knock out pretty.
Sounds like that may be a bit heavy but then R/Cers tend to use mucho engine power to get their planes to fly. He says his planes are very indestructable.

Dang, it's so cold here the cows are giving milk shakes.
« Last Edit: January 15, 2007, 06:27:25 PM by Jerry Bohn »
Jerry Bohn

Offline Chris Brainard

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Re: Minwax Polycrylic
« Reply #5 on: January 15, 2007, 06:04:52 PM »
I still use it...under monokote. Brush a heavy coat on bare wood and lay damp silkspan on top. Rub silkspan with fingers until polycrylic "oozes" through. While it is still wet, apply another coat to the tissue and rub it in as well. You only want enough to make sure the tissue will bond solidly to the balsa. Don't put on to much! When it dries it will have a flat look to it and should have a "fuzzy" feel. Sand the fuzz and any shiny spots, first with 180 grit sandpaper, then 320 used dry. Use a tack cloth to thoroughly clean off the dust. I also use low air pressure from my compressor to blow out any areas the tack cloth can't reach. Apply monokote over top. Makes a great substrate for monokote and helps hold out the wood grain. Caution: Don't put it on to heavy or it will bubble from heat of monokote gun/iron. Also, don't go crazy with the heat or you can get a bubble. This method has given me my best monokote finishes. Both the Jamison Special and the Oriental are fully monokoted.
Chris

Offline phil c

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Re: Minwax Polycrylic
« Reply #6 on: January 16, 2007, 01:27:43 PM »
look around for Varathane Diamond Wood finish.  Just like Min Wax polycrylic in how it handles but it is fairly fuel proof.  Comes in spray cans too.  I found it at Lowes
phil Cartier


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