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Author Topic: Leadouts  (Read 2815 times)

Offline Chris Gilbert IRL-1638

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Leadouts
« on: February 14, 2006, 07:06:38 AM »
Hi All,

I've read the various docs/threads over the place about making leadouts, but what I'd like to know what is the best way of connecting the leadouts to the bellcrank?

I've seen loads of things about how to wind the thimbals or bush the out of the model end, but nothing on the bellcrank connections

All my previous experience (from a few years back) was with models of 2.5 cc or less, and the club I flew with then was all combat and diesel goodyear, so nothing much above 2.5 cc was used by anyone.

Right now I'm building a model for an OS25LA, but I'd like to update my building skills to handle bigger models (ST46 waiting patiently in box for when I can fly a schedule)

Any advice?

Maybe an idea for a short article for newbies/rethreads like me, flying solo or in small groups?
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IRL-1638

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Re: Lead outs
« Reply #1 on: February 14, 2006, 07:12:01 AM »
Check Tom Morris's web site. But I will try to explain. Brass tubing about 1 inch long over lead out bent into a U shape wrapped with copper wire termination. I use shrink wrap over wire. But pleas do find tom's description.
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Offline Leester

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Re: Leadouts
« Reply #2 on: February 14, 2006, 04:19:45 PM »
Chris: You have to go to Walter Umlands web site www.builtrightflyright.com to get Tom's information. Go to helpfull hints, then scroll all the way down to Tom's pdf files.
« Last Edit: February 14, 2006, 04:22:05 PM by Leester »
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Offline Jim P

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Re: Leadouts
« Reply #3 on: February 15, 2006, 07:03:51 PM »
Lee:
Don't be afraid to use 1/32 music wire either. Simple, cheap, works well for me and lots of others.  Being an old combat guy myself, this is what I naturally gravitated to.
I do actually use both methods(stranded and solids) Usually if a wing is 56-58" the 36" solids are not long enough. Never had a failure but use care in loading in vehicle, etc. to prevent bends. If you get a bend, straighten it out, no problem.
Have never experienced any of the horror stories about solid leadouts and they are smoother and maybe lighter.
I would go up one size of music wire (.039) for 46 and up sized models though.
One  advantage to stranded leadouts with the bushings etc. as described is that they are readily reusable so long as you can unwrap the tip ends.
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Offline Russell Shaffer

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Re: Leadouts
« Reply #4 on: February 18, 2006, 11:41:27 AM »
How do you form the ends on solid leads?  Russell
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Russell Shaffer
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Offline Ron Varnas

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Re: Leadouts
« Reply #5 on: March 04, 2006, 04:43:30 PM »
Russell, personally I'd advise to keep away from the solids, a few of the top
stunt fliers a while back lost their ships because of leadout failure with the soilds,
I think Tom Morris sells a complete attached bellcrank system, a lot easier and safer too ;)
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RJV Melb. Australia

Offline dynasoar1948

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Re: Leadouts
« Reply #6 on: March 07, 2006, 11:15:59 AM »
On the topic of leadouts, I'm trying to locate heavy duty line connectors like the Sullivan Products 110 lb. test (code 122B which they claim they have no record of, but I have a package label).

The reason is AMA requires manufacturer's label of pull test equal to pull demo at contest. This is for CL Speed.

These are connectors made of one piece of heavy wire, flattened and overlapped where the lines are inserted.   Help!

Will Stewart
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William Stewart

Offline RandySmith

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Re: Leadouts
« Reply #7 on: March 07, 2006, 11:18:51 AM »
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Offline Andrew Hathaway

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Re: Leadouts
« Reply #8 on: March 07, 2006, 07:30:06 PM »
I think the Sullivan connectors you're looking for are discontinued.  They were deep sea fishing tackle.  Anyway there's only one place I know of that still has them.

http://members.cox.net/mbschuette/pages/PRODUCTS.html

About half way down on the pricelist you'll see the listing, if you click the catalog number it'll show a picture. 
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