That's been my prefered method for about 35 years.  Soften brass tubing with a blowlamp and it bends into a nice horseshoe shape with the .027" cable inside.  The partial flatening of the tube is almost enough to secure the leadout, even with wrapping. 

I still wrap them, but in scrapping out some old systems, it was virtually impossible the pull the wire out of the tube, even with pliers and a vise.  Both ends, bellcrank and wingtip.

Thanks guys, no more thimbles for me 

Andreas

 Hi.

 I don't use separate line connectors, just solder a clip directly to the end of lead-out cables. Same thing at the bellcrank end. The piano wire (dia 1mm) overlaps with lead-out cable about 1/2" and it's wrapped with thin copper wire before soldering. It all depends on the shear strenght of solder joint, so it's very important to pre-tin the piano wire and cable ends before wrapping and soldering them together. I don't use stainless lead-outs but it's not a big deal to replace the lead-outs of a fully take-apart plane if I see any problems.

 Regards, Lauri

 Hi.

 It's not scary at all, even with your old pull-test rules. Yatsenko's have allways used this method.
 But as I said, you must be sure that solder sticks well to piano wire. That's why I pre-tin the parts before assembly. L

 Nope. Just the standard tin/lead stuff. For pre-tinning I use tin/lead paste, that's tin and lead powder mixed with flux.
 Also, I saturate the l.o. cable with solder a few millimetres more than overlapping goes and also do the same with copper wire wrapping. this is to prevent a stress riser where piano wire ends. L

Derek,

You're always so clever.

Soldering.

Beware of two things...Acid core solder, or Acid flux will really corrode your wire unless treated wit baking soda and water solution. And soldering will also potentially set up a stress riser.

That one doesn't make me warm and comfy. But then, I use solid leadouts!


w.