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Author Topic: Klasskote Update  (Read 1646 times)

Offline Ron King

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Klasskote Update
« on: October 10, 2006, 10:55:46 AM »
Here is a picture of the new bird in Klasskote primer. I've learned a few things about this system that I want to share.

First of all, the paint is easy to use and BRUSHES on smoothly. Yes, I brushed my primer coats. After a couple of test batches, I discovered that Klasskote flows very well, covers very evenly, and leaves zero brush marks. (I also use to brush my K&B primer.) The reasoning is we sand most of it off anyway and it's a PITA to setup and clean the spray gear.

The second thing I learned is a little goes a LOOONNNNNNG way.  ~^  I mixed 1.5 ounces each of Part A and Part B, then thinned the mix with another 1.5 ounces of Reducer (4.5 ounces total). I figured that would be enough for the first coat. WRONG! That was enough for both coats and some touch up later.

The next thing I learned is Klasskote (thankfully) has a good "pot" life. I brushed on the first coat, then let it cure overnight. After I sanded 80 percent of the first coat off, I stirred up what was left (a lot) and brushed on the second coat. Then a few hours later, I brushed the remainder onto some of the low spots and set the whole thing aside for another day. There is still some left in the cup and it is just starting to cure - two days later.

I just finished sanding the second coat. As you can see, I have one spot of hanger rash to fix (red putty) and a couple of places to spot prime. But the plane is ready for its base coat and I'm quite satisfied with the result.

Total weight gain for two coats, sanded: 1.35 ounces.  <= <=

The new Alouette is 700 square inches and will fly at 64 ounces with a PA 65 up front.

Other details: The substrate is balsa, sealed with nitrate and covered with OO silkspan and some 0.5 ounce fiberglass. I use Epoxolite for the fillets - it's not as finicky as the other stuff. I wet sand the first coat with 320 and wet sand the second coat with 400. These cut well enough, but don't go through the substrate.

I am not expecting this plane to be on the front row at the Nats. I fly Advanced and most of our contests don't even have appearance judging. But that's no excuse to do sloppy work, so I'll make this one look as nice as I can.

Cheers,

Ron
Ron King
AMA AVP District 4
Wannabe Stunt Pilot since 1963
 Amateurs practice until they get it right; Pros practice until they cannot get it wrong.

Offline Jim Kraft

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Re: Klasskote Update
« Reply #1 on: October 10, 2006, 01:37:35 PM »
Hi Ron; I used to paint my R/C pattern planes with K&B and Hobby Poxy, and I believe both are compatable with Klasskote. If you refrigerate your left over epoxy mix, it will last up to about a month. Be sure to bring it to room temp before using.
Jim Kraft

Offline Ron King

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Re: Klasskote Update
« Reply #2 on: October 10, 2006, 01:49:34 PM »
Jim,

Thanks for the tip. I also used that stuff on my RC Pattern ships, which is why I was willing to try it on CLPA ships. Brett Buck and Eric Viglione have been very pleased so far and my initial reaction is that I will not use butyrate dope on anything any more. This is a much better system.  ~>

So far, the wife doesn't object to the smell. Let's see how she reacts to me storing paint in the fridge.  %^

Ron
Ron King
AMA AVP District 4
Wannabe Stunt Pilot since 1963
 Amateurs practice until they get it right; Pros practice until they cannot get it wrong.

Offline Jim Oliver

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Re: Klasskote Update
« Reply #3 on: October 10, 2006, 10:05:25 PM »
Hi Ron,
Is your wing sheeted or open bays--can't quite be sure from the pix.

Jim
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Offline Ron King

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Re: Klasskote Update
« Reply #4 on: October 11, 2006, 07:45:56 AM »
Hi Ron,
Is your wing sheeted or open bays--can't quite be sure from the pix.

Jim

All surfaces are sheeted. I have always sheeted my tail surfaces and sheeted the wing on my Legacy. It turned out so well, I have continued this practice with the big ships.

I learned from Bob Gialdini that super light sheeting does not necessarily add more weight. You can use OO silkspan and a lot less filler. I usually build foam wings, but this one is built up and sheeted.

I tested Klasskote on an open bay wing and am concerned with weight build up. The finish doesn't shrink or sag the covering - but it doesn't evaporate much either. If you are using primer, you will have to work to sand it off. I'm sure it can be done, but I'm not up to that task.

I've finished the touch ups. Now more sanding, then I'll shoot the base coat. Stay tuned.  ~>

Ron
Ron King
AMA AVP District 4
Wannabe Stunt Pilot since 1963
 Amateurs practice until they get it right; Pros practice until they cannot get it wrong.

Eric Viglione

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Re: Klasskote Update
« Reply #5 on: October 11, 2006, 08:38:21 AM »
Thanks for the vote of confidence Ron, I really like the stuff. My Legacy is on it's 3rd year of 4stroking with YS20/20 and holding up well. Some minor issues from heat, but not paint related. Next 4banger ship will get better venting.

Re- Open bays, KlassKote - I recently tried a trick passed to me by Brad Walker. On my open bays I used Phil Cartier's SLC film, with just enough border to hold it, about half inch or so, then silk span the wing as usual. VERY strong, very light, very thin, easily hides edges of SLC with coat of Nitrate even before silk span. This is a very slick method. I will continue to do it from here on out.

My Avanti sits in primer, just like your picture above. I just need to get some friskets made and find the time to shoot the KlassKote color now.

Eric V.


Offline Ron King

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Re: Klasskote Update
« Reply #6 on: October 11, 2006, 09:01:36 AM »
Eric,

Thanks for the update. Looking at your Avanti, I'm making some assumptions: Is that a Dixon foam wing with the "faux" rib capstrips? You used the SLC film on this one? If so, it looks like it sanded out great.

I've only done a test panel on my old wrecked Alouette and have not had time to sand it out yet.

Thanks,

Ron
Ron King
AMA AVP District 4
Wannabe Stunt Pilot since 1963
 Amateurs practice until they get it right; Pros practice until they cannot get it wrong.

Eric Viglione

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Re: Klasskote Update
« Reply #7 on: October 11, 2006, 01:04:26 PM »
Yup, Dixon kit with faux rib cap strips. The SLC film kept the chemicals off of the foam, so I didn't have to worry about that at all, and the silk span stuck to it perfect.

Oh - BTW - I put three coats of thinned nitrate on the frame and up to the edge of the SLC, and only one coat of nitrate over the SLC film before I silk span'd the wing. I figured there was no need to build up dope on the SLC since it would not soak in and just sit on top anyways. Makes for a lighter finish also.

That SLC stuff is super strong too. I put a piece over an old plywood punch out card from my Legacy kit and tried punching my finger tip through the hole where the spinner nose ring was, and I couldn't break though without busting the plywood first!

EricV

Offline Bill Little

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Re: Klasskote Update
« Reply #8 on: October 11, 2006, 02:05:12 PM »
When I get another "extra" check, I am going to go the KlassKote system and give it a real try.  I used Hobbypoxy in the early '70s, and liked it pretty good.

Bill <><
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Offline Ward Van Duzer

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Re: Klasskote Update
« Reply #9 on: October 11, 2006, 02:37:41 PM »
SLC Film?
I hate spelling errors, you mess up 2 letters and you are urined!

Don't hesitate to ask dumb questions.
They are easier to handle than dumb mistakes!  Ward-O AMA 6022

Offline Lane Puckett

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Re: Klasskote Update
« Reply #10 on: October 11, 2006, 08:26:00 PM »
SLC is super light covering I think

Phil C's stuff he sells
http://home.earthlink.net/~philcartier/

It is stronger than seal-lamin and easier to use and lighter than fascal 

GREAT stuff


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