Author Topic: Kit Cloning Hawker Typhoon Profile (Read 3128 times)

Leester · « **on:** April 25, 2007, 02:54:43 PM »

The ribs I made from the root and tip of the foam wing from a Custom Models kit of the Hawker Typhoon is now a built up wing. The kit is the Profile version of Dennis Adamisins Nats winner.
Next up is to duplicate the fusalage, which should be a challenge. They have a cut out for tank installation but I think I'll go with longer motor mounts and mount the tank on the fus. It was also set up for inboard engine placement. I think I'll go with outboard instead.

Recommended engine is 35-46 (undecided)
Wing span is 54 1/4 (kit was 52") wing mounted gear
535 sq. in.(kit) Mine ??

I'm not sure what the weight will turn out to be, the wing less the gear is 11 3/4 oz. I guess I'll decide on an engine when I get the rest of the parts cut and see what they all weight. I do have a ST 46 not doing anything.

Well here's a few pics of the wing (wing tips need carved and sanded) and the kit fusalage I get to copy. Hope you like it.

And thanks for all the help on the ribs and wing.

Dennis Adamisin · « **Reply #1 on:** April 25, 2007, 03:26:11 PM »

This is really a cool project! The original Typhoons were built up fully sheeted wings. I agree too with the outboard engine - it just don't LOOK right on the inboard side!

Originals had McCoy 40's for power, and weighed 48 oz. The ST 46 should likely work just fine. Use a light muffler, a wood prop and maybe a plastic spinner so it does not go too nose heavy...

Keep it going Leester!

Leester · « **Reply #2 on:** April 25, 2007, 03:54:46 PM »

Dennis, Thanks for the tips,I'll keep an eye on the weight now that I have an idea on it. I do have lighter engines to choose from in the 40-46 size. BTW I did correct a spelling error (sorry).

Bill Little · « **Reply #3 on:** April 25, 2007, 04:01:21 PM »

Hi Lee,

That's a great project! You'll still have the kit when you're done, too.

No telling, but that old ST 46 should haul it pretty good.

Probably a Magnum 36 , too. I just can't see putting an Aero Tiger 36 on a Profile! LOL!!

Bill <><

Dennis Adamisin · « **Reply #4 on:** April 25, 2007, 06:04:38 PM »

I shoulda thunk of this before: If you are cutting a new fuselage anyway, keep the outline the same but move the wing cutout FORWARD about 3/4" thus shrotening the nose and lengthening the tail. This will help you maintain the balance with the heavier engine & muffler. The longer tail won't hurt anything either - should improve the turn and the stability.

Rob Killick · « **Reply #5 on:** April 25, 2007, 08:11:00 PM »

Hi Lee ,

Nice work on the Tiffie
Nice stash under the workbench , too

Leester · « **Reply #6 on:** May 08, 2007, 06:02:00 PM »

With to many other projects going on I finally got the wood and most everything cut out. I should be able to start assembly shortly but tomarrow is going to be nice and very little wind sooo I'm goin flying. Almost forgot I changed my mind and am going to go with an LA 40 (silver) if it don't do the job the I'll swap out for the LA 46. Eric at RSM is sending me an adjustable tank mount he is adding to his line, will let you know about it when I get it.

Leester · « **Reply #7 on:** May 10, 2007, 07:19:10 PM »

I have attached the 1/16 ply doublers to the fusalage, the LA 40 will require that I relieve most of the inboard doubler under the engine to sit on the fusalage. Not a big deal as the 1/2" tripler will cover it. Am I better off putting 1/8" aluminium engine pads on or relieving the doubler

Thanks

Bill Little · « **Reply #8 on:** May 11, 2007, 07:31:12 AM »

Quote from: Leester on May 10, 2007, 07:19:10 PM

I have attached the 1/16 ply doublers to the fusalage, the LA 40 will require that I relieve most of the inboard doubler under the engine to sit on the fusalage. Not a big deal as the 1/2" tripler will cover it. Am I better off putting 1/8" aluminium engine pads on or relieving the doubler Thanks

Sorry, Lee, I can not get a mental picture of what you're describing.........

Leester · « **Reply #9 on:** May 12, 2007, 01:35:05 PM »

OK, The pics should explain. With the inboard doubler as is the engine will not sit on the fus. the XXXXX area will have to be removed. With the alum. engine pads the XXXXX'd area will not have to be removed. Make sense now ??

Bill Little · « **Reply #10 on:** May 12, 2007, 06:21:34 PM »

Boy, do I feel stooopid! Yes I understand now.

Geez, I don't know what was wrong with my brain!

Bill Little · « **Reply #11 on:** May 12, 2007, 06:24:00 PM »

Oh, yeah, I would definitely put aluminum pads under the engine. It just makes the front end last a good bit longer, and you don't have to deal with re tightening the bolts as often!

Leester · « **Reply #12 on:** May 12, 2007, 10:05:29 PM »

Thanks Bill: I knew you knew what I meant. While I was mounting the pads I also mounted an adjustable profile tank mount I just received from Eric at RSM. All you do is attach the tank to the base with RTV Silicone and the 4-40 bolts with #4 flat washers and blind nuts lets you adjust the set up, pretty slick.

Bill Little · « **Reply #13 on:** May 12, 2007, 10:41:24 PM »

Hey, Brother! That is a SLICK tank mounting system! I really like that.

I think you are going to like that Typhoon for some strange reason.

And like you say, you can ALWAYS slap that 46LA on there, if the 40 ain't quite up to the task. (I'd probably start out with the 46!

)

Bill <><

Leester · « **Reply #14 on:** May 21, 2007, 08:08:04 PM »

I've got it pieced together and it seems like everything fits. I'll taper the fusalage on the inboard side to meet the rudder and final sand everything before assembly. The shaping of the oil cooler isn't shown real clear on the plans so I'll have to figure that one out.

Crist Rigotti · « **Reply #15 on:** May 21, 2007, 09:38:36 PM »

Looks nice Lee.

Bill Little · « **Reply #16 on:** May 22, 2007, 09:32:18 AM »

I think we always tapered the outside fuselage side to meet the rudder.

Everything looks real nice so far!

Leester · « **Reply #17 on:** May 22, 2007, 12:37:49 PM »

Bill: I double checked the instructions and it says to center the rudder and taper fusalage to 1/4". So I guess they mean both sides of the fus 1/2" back from the TE to the rudder ? I just figured the inboard side because Larry Cunningham shows this on his building a better profile and keeping the out boardflat.

proparc · « **Reply #18 on:** May 22, 2007, 01:05:17 PM »

I have been following this post since the beginning. Man, you are doing some sweet work. First question - 1. where are you getting your wood. Second question - 2. whats up with all of those Brodak kits under your bench 3. How about showing more of those planes you have hanging on the wall. I look at construction photos carefully!!!

I can tell you first hand that your best bet is to forget the 40. I have been putting ALOT of stick time on a LA 46 and man, that is the way to go. I slapped an APC 11x6 prop on one, (wasn't sure if it could handle it) and the joint started jumping!! I happen to have some very nice ST 46's that I don't want to sacrifice to profile work. The LA 46 IMHO is first call for rough and ready back of the pickup profile work,(although, this particular profile is a major cut above that).

P.S. Remember, unless you are flying in competition, you can use .015's on your 46. Most of the Socal flyers fly .015's on there 46's, way to go.

Mark Scarborough · « **Reply #19 on:** May 22, 2007, 01:13:38 PM »

Really nice work there,, FWIW, locally here I have been flying the LA 46 with an APC 11.5 x 4 prop and loving it. With regards the tank mount, thats the same way I do it, except I went to the local hardware store and got some neoprene washers from the hardware selection bins, they are about 3/4" in diameter,, I hotstuff one under each mount location, then I use nylon washwers over the mount plate, I feel it gives a bit of dampening for vibration and it gets a nice "bite" so that the mount isnt as likely to slip. side benefit, it makes it nicer to adjust, you can loosen the bolts and slip it while it has a bit of tension still so that it moves more precisely,,, Just my experience

Leester · « **Reply #20 on:** May 22, 2007, 01:33:51 PM »

Mark: Thanks for the tip on the nylon washers, makes good sense and I'll use it.
Proparc: I have the LA 46 all set up for it. 1. The wood is Lone Star mostly, but the ribs and elev. stab are from Sig. 2. The kits are part of my stash, when I retire I will have plenty to keep me busy and it's all paid for. 3. The planes are some of what I goof off with when the wind isn't blowing. It's really been windy here. Thanks for following.

Leester · « **Reply #21 on:** June 02, 2007, 07:14:46 PM »

I haven't got a lot done lately, been finishing other projects. I have done some shapeing on the fusalage and trying to figure out the oil cooler. Here's the progress so far.