Hmm, let's see. The bellcrank was made in a mold from West Systems 105/209 epoxy and post cured. I cut the slot in on the end with a mill. The terminations on the leadouts are made from some 1/8" PC board I've had around forever and the slot around the perimeter was cut with a slotting bit on the mill. The screws are standard 4-40 hex head cap screws 1" long with a 3/8" shoulder that the PC termination rides on. The leadout are wrapped with 28 gauge stainless wire and heat shrink tubing over the top. The leadout wire going around the fitting is dressed with some acrylic polymer that dries fairly hard, but retains some flexibility. The point was to insure the wire didn't jump out of the slot. Makes for a very smooth movement. Oh, almost forgot, the PC board pieces have a bronze bushing in the middle that the shoulder bolt actually rides on.
The center pivot is a thick wall 1/4" OD brass tubing I had hanging around. Much heavier than the K&S stuff. A number of years ago, I bought a box of brass scrap from a place I get aluminium and such from. He has a small box with all kinds of scrap pieces. Tubing, sheets, angle, whatever. There was a lot of tubing in the thing and I dig around in it when I'm looking for a piece of brass. The bearing in the bellcrank (that you can barely see under the JB Weld) is a chunk of bronze 1/4" ID tubing. The little collars that was soldered on the top and bottom are to retain the bellcrank. That was some thin walled 1/4" ID brass tubing that might be K&S. It didn't come from the scrap box. But all it does is retain the crank in position.
All and all, it's a very smooth system and I'm pretty sure, unlike the system in the poor Ringmaster Deluxe, that it will hold up just fine.
Speaking of that, my buddy Pat Johnston, surprised me when I was recently in Idaho with a nice, new set of plans for the RD (with corrections I suggested) and a set of laser cut ribs. so I suppose when I'm done with this project, I'll build another RD with a much betting bellcrank - probably like this one.