Not long ago someone shared a method where you use a small piece of silkspan or veil folded over the hinge before inserting it in the slot.  I'll try and remember to see if I can find it, it sounded a lot less messy than what I usually do.  Found it:  https://stunthanger.com/smf/open-forum/psa-(epoxy-content)/msg574261/#msg574261  It looks like Motorman did not care for this method, looks worth a try to me.

Plus one on what Keith suggests, and I use 30 minute or longer glue.  Windy shows this method in one of his videos and thet is where I picked it up. Get all the slots cut, hinges fitted, and be satisfied with the deflection before gluing. Then just do one control surface at a time, work slowly and purposefully. Ehrn all are in, test the deflection, and then use paper towels and Q-Tips dipped in alcohol to wipe away and epoxy that got away from you. Double check the fit up one more time then set aside to cure.
   Type at you later'
    Dan McEntee

I use Formula 560 Canopy Glue.  Works well, drys clear and cleans up with water.

The hinge wire will go all the way from the tip to the root of the surface.

I use nearly the same method.  The only difference is that I put a strip of aluminum tubing between the hinges and I assemble the whole thing on the flap/elevator before gluing anything.  The tubes get glued to the flap/elevator then blended in.  This way the hinges are totally aligned with zero binding.  I round the ends of the wires and bevel the hinge and tube ends so that the wire slides in and out effortlessly.  The gap is almost non-existent.  Almost - still needs to be sealed.

A word on gluing.  With no need to ever remove a hinge they can be glued with CA disassembled.  No more gluing in the pin! 

Ken

I've used pinned nylon hinges and CA with a small 1/16" hole in the underside of the surface about in the middle of each tab.  A drop or two of thin CA into the hole seems to work well enough for my sport aerobatic ships.  I can either apply a small patch of covering or leave the hole 'as is' with it hardened by the CA to ward off fuel seepage.   No risk of getting any CA on the hinge barrel.

I may also experiment with the Robart hinge points and the clear Gorilla glue but those aren't practical when the elevator is only 1/8" thick to start with.  I like the idea of a fold of silkspan inserted into the pocket then CA. 

Of course, any hinge tab or point should be cleaned of all mold release and perhaps roughed up a bit with course sandpaper before any gluing.  I don't 'yet' have a precision oil bottle to put a dab of machine oil on the hinge barrel but those are available locally.

Thanks all for the replies.

     Oy gevalt.

     Of course, it's a different story when you need the airplane to actually *fly properly*, rather than be a  hangar queen, or rather, fodder for year+ "no sale" listings on eBay.

    Plenty of people can make hinge lines that look good and work well, too. You just aren't one of them. That's no crime in and of itself, no one was born knowing how to build model airplanes.  But lecturing people on "doing it right" falls pretty flat when you have no idea how to do it yourself.
     
    Brett

Brett,

I'm sorry you couldn't hold it in any longer.

You've been trolling me for years and years and years. What 7, 8 years? Never a good word to say?

The only reason I can come up with is jealously, which if Googled, "jealously is the most common reason why people troll in Forums." All kinds of Forums actually.

With this said, why would you be jealous of me? Or, why do you troll me?

You do design and build your own models and finish and paint them? Two part clear now? And you're an elite flyer, actually in a class by yourself.

So, what's your issue? Oh, I remember, "no one" was going to let me teach. You guys actually said this.

    Plenty of people can make hinge lines that look good and work well, too. You just aren't one of them. That's no crime in and of itself, no one was born knowing how to build model airplanes.  But lecturing people on "doing it right" falls pretty flat when you have no idea how to do it yourself.

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Brett, you must have me mixed up with someone else, I can't ever remember a Post where I preached my way of "doing it right" is the only way. To the contrary actually. I say, "Don't try this at home."

Yes, absolutely, I think models look nicer when the hinge is recessed and hidden. Just an opinion, no crime in that.

Yes, I have great tiny tiny spaces between my tight but loose control surfaces and I take the time to recess the hinge. It just makes the model look more finished. In my opinion. There has to be at least one modeler out there who agrees. No, you don't have to speak up, you don't need issues.

As for my "no sale" on ebay. I'm glad you're keeping an eye on my ebay adventures.

I'll bring you up to date.

I sold the ARGO and the ARGO 2. $1,000.00 each. Oh, and the NovaRossi, $255.00 plus the OS 80-H $120.00. I have 2 more of those one is NIB.

One buyer actually paid $480.00 to have the ARGO shipped by a UPS store to AZ.

The ARGO arrived without a scratch on it. The buyer said he had never, NEVER in all the years he had been modeling, seen a model finished to these standards. Maybe he doesn't get out much?

I'll stay humble, but I'm glad he likes the ARGO. Difficult to buy a model just from photos. But like he said, he had a good feeling about my honesty.

As for the Mig-3 and the Stuka. If it wasn't for shipping I could have sold them 20 times.

I'm the guy who is saying no to Greyhound, not a chance, and not many will pay for UPS shipping. I still look at them now and again, having a difficult time believing I built the things.

FYI. The first model to sell on ebay was the Flite Streak 007. I wouldn't ship it. I actually lowered the price because the buyer drove to pick it up. A 1600 mile loop. I mentioned this way back in the Forum. $375.00 for the Flite Streak 007.

BTW. Next time you're out there flying around in circles, take a kite with you.

By now EVERYONE knows how I feel about flying. It takes up too much valuable time in my life and flying takes me away from more important things.

I never feel guilty or selfish about the time I don't waste by flying. It's not my thing, but I never troll others who do spend a good deal of time flying. And I never have commented, in a negative way, about other modelers building skills or their models. Always positive replies!

And when I do fly, which is hardly ever, no one knows because I don't tell anyone.

Why should I?

 

Look Ma, there are not any visible hinges!

Not hard to do with Robart Hinge Points and relatively thick elevators and flaps.  Used the larger Hinge Points that are 3/16" diameter on these elevators and flaps.  Also on the moveable rudder.

Keith

By this point, most know who to listen to and who to blow off. For me, I prefer for hinges to work well and making them pretty is secondary. At least for a Open competition plane.

A glutton for punishment or maybe I just like sharing?

This link will take you to a build. I added a photo and description on the hinge recess and installation.

This link and Post #115.

https://stunthanger.com/smf/cfc-graphics/gee-bee-r-3-build!-semi-scale-cl-stunter!/msg461932/#msg461932

Seeing as there is a host of ways to skin a ca.... hold them horses why would anyone actually want to skin a ca... I mean that that is what rabbits are for right? I mean back in the 1800's cat fur was used in women's clothing and there was a debate as to how best to skin a cat and some said they heard that the Dutch did it while the cat was alive. This was determined to be false as the general consensus was that skinning a live cat was near impossible. So it was settled that the said cat was best skinned while it was freshly dead. Discussions did  not delve into the circumstance of the recent demise only to the best time to perform the act.So while we are on our merry way skinning cats. I install hinges by cutting the slots, insert the hinge, drill a hole through the elevator and stab all the way through the hinge, wick in some thin CA in the hole, pin the hinge with a round toothpick a tad more CA around the toothpick, trim, sand smooth, done. If you do not go hog wild with the CA you get no glue in the hinge joint and it will never come apart. The round tooth pick will keep it put for ever.

  Hey Steve,
  I have been using DuBro 2 piece hinges forever I am not talented enough to try CA I already know how it would turn out if I tried so I always use 30 minute epoxy. put a dab in the slot with a 1/64" plywood stick & then put in the hinge ,pull out then wipe clean I reinstall . That way I know if there is enough epoxy or too much  and have time to adjust.
  I like the way Paul does his, the wing trailing edge is hollowed , conceived & the flap leading edge is rounded to fit into the trailing edge I think this looks better plus don't need to seal the hinge lines.
   John L.

  That could be true Ken,  but it looks good.
         John L.

This is how some prepare nylon hinges to avoid getting glue into the hinge...place a monokote iron in a vise as shown, insuring it is level. Place a mason jar lid on the iron with just enough petroleum jelly to cover the barrel of the hinge. Very low heat will melt the jelly and when the hinge is folded and placed as shown, the liquified jelly will wick into the barrel. The result is a clean hinge for gluing, pre-lubricated, and the glue will not seep into the hinge.

hopefully....

Howard, I don't recall you being there when that happened....

dg

I watched two good flyers at the NATs about 10 or so years ago, flying in a down pour of steady rain. They were soaked, as were the white glue hinge pockets. The glue dissolved and the balsa swelled. Both flyers threw in their respective towels and felt very glad they didn't lose a plane.

Heat guns and the sun restored the warped wings and hinges...be careful of white glue in very damp weather.

dg