News:



  • May 10, 2024, 12:38:55 AM

Login with username, password and session length

Author Topic: Glue  (Read 1798 times)

Offline Ron Merrill

  • 2013 Supporter
  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Commander
  • *
  • Posts: 278
Glue
« on: July 30, 2006, 12:34:54 PM »
 j1 I know this is probably a old question but, i was talking with a fellow at the hobby shop and he said one way to cut down on weight was to use white glue and thin with water. Will this work? '' '' He said after glue dries and you cove with silkspan the piece will be strong and safe. Sounds iffy to me. Thanks Ron.

Offline Oregon_Flyer

  • ACE
  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Commander
  • ****
  • Posts: 192
Re: Glue
« Reply #1 on: July 30, 2006, 06:58:49 PM »
Hi Ron

Just to chime in and add to Ty's offering, Harry Higley's book, "there are no secrets" which I am sure most will agree is a good benchmark for authoritative reference contains a section on adhesives.  What to use and what not to use.  I refer to it occasionally to make sure.  I checked it just now and could find no listing for "white" glue", however epoxy, alphatic resin and CA are there as well as acetone cements and contact cements.  I might add that in some instances "pro-bond" - gorilla glue could be used however I would suggest that some of the more advanced builders like Robert [forum founder] Bill Little and Randy [always trying something new] Powell be consulted.

Regards

Marv

Offline RC Storick

  • Forum owner
  • Administrator
  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Admiral
  • *
  • Posts: 12411
  • The finish starts with the first piece of wood cut
    • Stunt Hangar
Re: Glue
« Reply #2 on: July 30, 2006, 07:03:39 PM »
Elmer's white glue works fine on some things. You can thin it with water. The real trick is to dab water on the joint and then put the glue on. When the water evaporates the joint gets tighter. White glue is not fuel proof or all that sand-able.
AMA 12366

Offline john e. holliday

  • 24 supporter
  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Admiral
  • *
  • Posts: 22776
Re: Glue
« Reply #3 on: July 30, 2006, 08:15:00 PM »
I do about 90% of my glue joints with Elmers White Glue,  not the school glue.  I usually spot with CA and then hit everything with the Elmers.  The Gorilla Glue(poly-urethane) is great for laminating the fuselages that were laser cut out of quarter inch balsa.  Makes for very, very stiff profile fuselages.  I use very little epoxy anymore.  DOC Holliday
John E. "DOC" Holliday
10421 West 56th Terrace
Shawnee, KANSAS  66203
AMA 23530  Have fun as I have and I am still breaking a record.

Offline Jim Thomerson

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Admiral
  • ******
  • Posts: 2087
Re: Glue
« Reply #4 on: July 30, 2006, 08:49:22 PM »
I have used thinned down Titebond like dope putting silkspan on and used it as a first coat over the whole airplane.  I can't say about the weight.  It is sandable if you don't put pressure on.  It gives a very hard surface and smooths down pretty good.  You can do it in the kitchen where you cannot do dope.  Later, dope goes on just fine.

Offline Ralph Wenzel (d)

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Captain
  • *****
  • Posts: 848
Re: Glue - Bad News
« Reply #5 on: July 30, 2006, 11:40:31 PM »
I have just started using Pica Glu-ItŪ. Looks like Elmer's, smells like Elmer's, balls up on my fingertips like Elmer's, BUT:

Sets up quickly and is quite sandable. I use it on all edge-to-edge joints now. The only known source is Randy Smith - www.aeroproduct.net

I spoke with Randy today, and he's now out of the Glue-it; says the stuff hasn't been made for a year or so. Rats! I really like this glue.
« Last Edit: August 01, 2006, 01:08:05 AM by R Wenzel »
(Too many irons; not enough fire)

Ralph Wenzel
AMA 495785 League City, TX

Offline Ron Merrill

  • 2013 Supporter
  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Commander
  • *
  • Posts: 278
Re: Glue
« Reply #6 on: July 31, 2006, 10:44:55 AM »
I did a little test. ??? I measured out 2oz. white glue ann teaspoon of water and mixed. Glued a piece of 1/4 x 1/4 to a 1/166th sheet weighted it down for 24 hrs. Spread the mix on both surfaces with a Q-tip. When checked '' it almost fell apart. ::) Was my mix or application or me at fault. Ron

Offline Patrick Rowan

  • AMA Member
  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Commander
  • *
  • Posts: 165
Re: Glue
« Reply #7 on: July 31, 2006, 09:13:23 PM »
I use CYA, epoxy & Elmers white glue to build my stunters.

I use the Elmers full strength.
Fly Stunt
75750
Poland, Ohio

Offline Bill Little

  • 2017
  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Admiral
  • *
  • Posts: 12671
  • Second in COMMAND
Re: Glue
« Reply #8 on: August 03, 2006, 09:16:16 PM »
For light building, Ambroinds, Duco, Sigment and such are the lightest.  They evaporate the carrier and only the acetate (or what ever the company dissolved to make it) is left.  You do need to "double glue" Ambroids and such for strength.  I put a coat on one of the pieces, put them together and pull them right back apart.  this leaves a film that soacks into the "joint".  As soon as it has set, I apply the glue again, and assemble the parts.  I have a 43 year old Smoothie that was built this way and when I recently "reworked" it, the glue joints were still solid.

White glue like Elmer's Glue All is next in the weight line since Pica's Gluit is no longer available.

Epoxy and CYA are the heaviest glues we use normally.
Big Bear <><

Aberdeen, NC

James Hylton Motorsports/NASCAR/ARCA

AMA 95351 (got one of my old numbers back! ;D )

Trying to get by

Offline Ron Merrill

  • 2013 Supporter
  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Commander
  • *
  • Posts: 278
Re: Glue
« Reply #9 on: August 04, 2006, 11:35:54 AM »
Hey thanks for all the input. I will stay with full strength glue and tack with CA. thanks Ron. y1

Offline Ralph Wenzel (d)

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Captain
  • *****
  • Posts: 848
Re: Glue
« Reply #10 on: August 10, 2006, 09:24:08 AM »
This is an update to my earlier plug for PICA Glu-It.

I emailed Dave Platt, the founder of PICA, regarding an alternative source, or even the manufacturer of, Glu-It. His response was a rather terse, "It's not available any more. I prefer Titebond."

As there were no modifiers (II or III), I presume he refers to the original formula Titebond.

If anyone else knows of a source, I'd really appreciate knowing who offers it. I've spent literally hours searching the www.

(Too many irons; not enough fire)

Ralph Wenzel
AMA 495785 League City, TX


Advertise Here
Tags:
 


Advertise Here