As Ty  says Cover first then apply the fillets. Sand to take the shine off then a little primer, sand and your ready to paint them.

Agreed Randy, stuff is so light when you get the containers you have to open them and make sure they have anything in them!

Hi guys!

Thanks for your answers! 

How would you do if you use iron-on covering on the wings and silkspan on the aircraft body? can you put epoxolite/aeropoxy/super-fil on iron-on covering?

Andreas

Sorry, but I have to inject a different opinion.

I use Epoxolite for my fillets and I put them on before I cover the model. I only use nitrate dope (non shrinking, thinned 50/50) and put two or three coats on the bare wood. Nitrate fills better and sticks better, too. Then I mask and put my fillets on. Then I sand the fillets and put on about 6 or 7 more coats of nitrate. Finally, I cover the model with light silkspan, fill with more coats of nitrate, and finish with Klass Kote epoxy. You can also cover with carbon veil, but it's expensive.

I don't use butyrate unless I have to shrink the covering and I don't like it very much. As Ty mentioned, it will pull up and bubble. I try to stick with nitrate on the fuselage (and fillet areas) and only switch to butyrate on the open bays.

My .02,

Ron

I use the Randolph's Non-Tautening, Tinted Nitrate on everytihng except silkspan/Jap tissue/silk open bays which get Sig Supercoat since it will shrink enough to chrush the skin on a B-1 Bomber! LOL!!  This is applied ONLY to open bays.

Randy, I know you only use Butyrate, but you should give the Nitrate I referred to above a try.  Never had a problem with compatibility in over 20 years now.  It has more solids, sticks better and is no heavier (maybe even lighter) than butyrate.  Like I have said before, it can even be used with NO PRIMER/Filler to build up the finish.  Very light!

Hi Randy,

A quart of Randolph Non-tautening, Tinted Nitrate is $13.95 plus shipping, IIRC.  I got a quart a couple months back to tide me over until I can get a gallon.

Bill <><