Well I looked all over for something to make a buck out of so I could mold the top deck of my new ship. I love I.B.C. Rootbeer and they happened to be just the right size. Plus they don't have the normal lip at the top and bottom of the can. PERFECT.....I used 2 sheets of 1/16. I will glue them together now that they are the right shape. They will go back on my hi tech mold until dry. I marked them so they wouldn't get mixed up.....Grins

Guys,

Way back in the dark and misty ages, I picked up some 2 1/4" banister rail...

It even has a flat on one side - I guess to attach it to the stairwell posts or whatever.

I suppose I could pick up on a soft or semi-hard beverage that comes in the flangeless can, but, then what would I do with those banister pieces? (Rhetorical question - I know what kind of suggestions I could expect... )

I have an assortment of aluminum baseball bats and axe handles that have never met a turtle deck they couldn't match. Just find the right section of taper, make the molded section a little oversize and trim to fit. We don't need no stinkin' foam bucks!  (patience was never my strong suit)
EricV

If you have ever had a lost foam fixture, or similar, you can often use the LE bucks for molding turtle decks.  Even a foam wing core.

I will mention that you can (or at least I have with success) substitute 3/32nd for 1/8th since it is *molded*, without any apparent structural strength loss.

Mongo

Guy's when you are forming a top block and you are laminating two pieces of wood, what do you use as adhesive, and do you use carbon mat between the pieces of wood? Also when you are using the mat what weight do you use, and how do you spred the adhesive with out "smearing" the mat around??
  Another question, do you put formers under the molded piece??
  Thanks,

<Guy's when you are forming a top block and you are laminating two pieces of wood, what do you use as adhesive, and do you use carbon mat between the pieces of wood? Also when you are using the mat what weight do you use, and how do you spred the adhesive with out "smearing" the mat around??
  Another question, do you put formers under the molded piece??>

Hi Gil,
I used two 1/16 thick pieces of balsa. I used tightbond water base glue. I thinned it out with a few drops of water and painted it on with a brush, making sure it was spread evenly, yeah you could use a card. I then put the 2 pieces together and put it back on the mold to dry. Yes, I put formers in my molded shell they are located directly above the formers in the fuse so they will be bonded together when the shell goes on. I also put a piece of stock the full length of the part like a backbone. It's located in the center of the crown.
  

Hi Guys,
Check it out my Rootbeer molded deck came out sweet.

Perfect Greg.
Keep the photos coming!

Hi Ty,
Pecan stain would of been nice, but I made the decision to go over to the dark side. I can't do the turtle deck until the wing and the tail feathers are in and the controls hooked up. I fiberglassed the little section with the slots for air exit for a little extra strength before I did the carbon fiber thing. I ran out of Carbon Veil so I had to use the several pieces I had left over form the last build. It took a little extra sanding to feather all the edges and get  it all flat. You won't be able to see it when painted. I used 3 coats of Nitrate Dope on the wood. When dry, a light sand and then applied the Veil with nitrate and a little Zinc Stearate to help fill the weave. I sanded about 50% of the dope off....OH and the little putty (SHHHH).....I was a little agressive and dug a groove with my thumb nail.