Author Topic: Fancherized Twister Build (Read 70426 times)

dirty dan · « **Reply #150 on:** November 30, 2012, 11:38:16 AM »

Quote from: Tim Wescott on November 29, 2012, 12:46:08 PM

Is there an article on the Wimpact published somewhere? Or posted on the web? "How to build the ultimate profile" maybe?

Derek and I have discussed generating an article and a set of plans from material already at hand. (Derek likes to draw stuff out in detail prior to making parts.)

We decided the considerable effort was clearly not worthwhile. There are far too few people actually interested in a Rite-Way Profile such as we developed. Piped 25FP for power; 425 to 450 square inches; sheeted foam wing, stabilizer and fuselage; scaled Impact. In short, we were only seriously interested in the journey although the destination has been a nice bonus...

And while I do not wish to be harsh, the truth is that responses such as yours to just 2 or 3 features incorporated into the Wimpact series serve well to reinforce our decision to simply build and enjoy our models.

(Hint: Seriously reconsider the value of built-up stab and fuselage on your new model. Or don't, it's clearly your choice, your model.)

Dan

dirty dan · « **Reply #151 on:** November 30, 2012, 11:44:05 AM »

Quote from: Howard Rush on November 28, 2012, 06:13:39 PM

Better yet, we can do some actual calculations. All we need to know is differential line tension. I shoulda showed you my test rig, but we were talking vegetables on your last visit.

That merely reinforces my view we had our priorities straight on that day. My "pumpkin" pies, actually made from the same Sweet Meat squash split with you, were very good. I trust you can say the same even if Marilou was primary baker.

Dan

Tim Wescott · « **Reply #152 on:** November 30, 2012, 11:50:53 AM »

Dan, I think you tend to misinterpret "I'm not going to drop everything and take twenty steps backwards from where I am now so I can go forward on your path" as meaning "your path isn't good". 'cause I'm gonna be lucky to have this plane for the tune-up as is. I'm just not going to stomp on half the pieces and trash them for some incremental improvements. If what I have flies as well as the KISS -- great, that's my goal. If it flies better, that's just a bonus. If I show up at the Tune Up with the KISS and excuses about how I'm still reworking Twisted Jenny based on advice I've been getting in the fora, that's failure. And I'm certainly not going to fail on purpose.

I would very much like to see such an article so that the next time that I build a plane, I can make an informed decision before I set out on a path, and maybe end up in a better place than I did with this one.

dirty dan · « **Reply #153 on:** November 30, 2012, 11:51:56 AM »

Quote from: Howard Rush on November 29, 2012, 11:49:14 AM

Jive Combat Team Consulting Services makes a lot of money helping people with this issue.

Indeed. I am sorely tempted to get into this subject even if this particular thread is probably not suited to same.

Maybe next week we can have some fun with it.

Warning: While there are some pictures of Dirtmobile #2 out there I won't be posting any of them. This is regarded as proprietary information after all.

Dan

dirty dan · « **Reply #154 on:** November 30, 2012, 12:04:41 PM »

Quote from: Tim Wescott on November 30, 2012, 11:50:53 AM

Dan, I think you tend to misinterpret "I'm not going to drop everything and take twenty steps backwards from where I am now so I can go forward on your path" as meaning "your path isn't good". 'cause I'm gonna be lucky to have this plane for the tune-up as is. I'm just not going to stomp on half the pieces and trash them for some incremental improvements. If what I have flies as well as the KISS -- great, that's my goal. If it flies better, that's just a bonus. If I show up at the Tune Up with the KISS and excuses about how I'm still reworking Twisted Jenny based on advice I've been getting in the fora, that's failure. And I'm certainly not going to fail on purpose.

I would very much like to see such an article so that the next time that I build a plane, I can make an informed decision before I set out on a path, and maybe end up in a better place than I did with this one.

The best I can do is suggest a search on SSW as there are a few pictures there even though I didn't post them and there is also (limited) discussion as to certain details.

Or assuming I can drag my butt out to 2013 contests you are welcome to watch it fly, look it over at your convenience, and ask questions which I will try to answer.

Oh, and there are some pictures on Flying Lines site, although possibly none of W500.

Dan

Russell Shaffer · « **Reply #155 on:** November 30, 2012, 08:22:05 PM »

Just don't touch it, Tim.

Scott Pahlow · « **Reply #156 on:** December 17, 2012, 06:57:26 PM »

Tim, (and all)

Thank you for continuing this build thread. I have read it in its entirety tonite with great interest. I am a retread, trying to learn the beginner pattern. I can do the inside & outside loops, horizontal 8's ( as opposed to lazy 8's). I haven't tried the vertical or overhead 8's. I do attempt the inside squares, (they don't look to square). I have at times needed more ground clearance than available. My mentors , Mike , Dennis , and Brad , all want me to use Twisters to continue my learning curve. I like the way they fly. I usually use an LA.46 , as they are user friendly. I have some second hand Twisters that need various repairs , refitting.

I also have the plans for Ted's Bash. I am a fan of the "Tadpole" Genesis (looks) . I hope your plane flys as good as it looks. I also have two new Twister kits in the box - not started yet. I will use some of the ideas presented here for sure. I'm looking forward to the rest of the build postings.
Thanks again , keep up the good work!
Scott

Tim Wescott · « **Reply #157 on:** December 17, 2012, 07:03:52 PM »

The build is in abeyance right now because I'm trying to get a couple of Reniger-style ET1 trainers done for nephews.

Scott:

I hope that it flies at least as good as it looks, too. Or maybe I should hope that it flies as well as the build has been long -- that should guarantee me success.

Good luck with yours.

Steve Helmick · « **Reply #158 on:** December 18, 2012, 12:52:11 AM »

When building these die-cut kits (assuming that the ribs are still die-cut), take the time to stack the ribs so that they are as similar as possible, and mark them so that you keep them all "same side up". I like to take the stack and put a Sharpie mark across the bottom of the top spar notches. The mark will be covered when you add the top spar. I found they are not exactly the same on top and bottom, tho each rib is very close to identical. If you ignore this step, warping is virtually assured. Also, if you are going to use a transparent finish, film or whatever, use "Correction Fluid" (typists will know) to cover them. There is a "beige" color that matches balsa pretty well.

Steve

Tim Wescott · « **Reply #159 on:** January 23, 2013, 03:58:13 PM »

Quote from: Steve Helmick on December 18, 2012, 12:52:11 AM

When building these die-cut kits (assuming that the ribs are still die-cut), take the time to stack the ribs so that they are as similar as possible, and mark them so that you keep them all "same side up".

Wow. I always just make sure to get the first few ribs right, then pay attention to the fact that the spar doesn't fit right if you get the rest in backwards. Actually marking things out. Hmm...

Tim Wescott · « **Reply #160 on:** January 23, 2013, 04:04:36 PM »

Back on track! Finally!

I hung this thing up toward the end of November in order to make a pair of Christmas Planes for nephews. Then I went and spent "just a bit of time" making a gift Banshee ready to fly.

Then, day before yesterday, I grabbed the fuselage off the wall where it had been hanging and found a humongous warp.

. It weren't like that when I done hung it up!

I moistened the sides behind the doublers, then put it on my bench with support on the ends and weight in the middle. That seems to have straightened it up, although only time will tell. My shop is only heated by what it gets though the wall, so any balsa that's not left flat tends to take a non-flat set to it: I'm hoping that's what happened to the fuselage.

At any rate -- it got the first coat of Polycrylic just now. Assuming that it gets no irreparable warps I'm planning on Polycrylic, Polycrylic, Silkspan held down with Polycrylic, then Polycrylic + talc until it's good and smooth. Then I'll assemble, put on fillets, final sand, paint the base coats, monocoat wings and tail, paint trim, and fly.

At the rate I'm going, I should have it ready for the Fall Follies in October.

Mark Scarborough · « **Reply #161 on:** January 23, 2013, 04:16:50 PM »

Quote from: Tim Wescott on January 23, 2013, 04:04:36 PM

Then, day before yesterday, I grabbed the fuselage off the wall where it had been hanging and found a humongous warp. . It weren't like that when I done hung it up!

At the rate I'm going, I should have it ready for the Fall Follies in October.

what did you use to laminate the fuse? PLEASE tell me you did not use waterbased glue,, aliphatic resin ( carpenters glue)

Fall Follies,, which year Tim

Tim Wescott · « **Reply #162 on:** January 23, 2013, 04:26:53 PM »

Quote from: Mark Scarborough on January 23, 2013, 04:16:50 PM

what did you use to laminate the fuse? PLEASE tell me you did not use waterbased glue,, aliphatic resin ( carpenters glue)

Right after I had it all glued up with yellow carpenter's glue, I saw Steve's post about water-based glue. So I let it sit on my bench for a week, all weighted down.

That could well be it. Or, it could be the fact that just about anything left in my shop and not forcibly held flat will warp.

john e. holliday · « **Reply #163 on:** January 24, 2013, 08:35:28 AM »

You should have used the Gorilla glue. Yes it gets ugly as it expands and oozes out, but it sands easily and makes for a very stiff fuselage.
If the curve to the fuse is to the outside and not too severe don't worry about it. You are still learning.

Tim Wescott · « **Reply #164 on:** January 26, 2013, 04:14:34 PM »

Quote from: Mark Scarborough on January 23, 2013, 04:16:50 PM

what did you use to laminate the fuse? PLEASE tell me you did not use waterbased glue,, aliphatic resin ( carpenters glue)

Three days after I straightened it and it still shows nice and straight when I sight down the dorsal fin (at 1/8" by two feet, it shows as being note entirely straight, but pretty close -- and never exactly the same twice. It'll be interesting to see if it stabilizes after the paint is on).

I got fillets on the dorsal fin yesterday. I'd show a picture, but I don't think I can make the fillets show!

There are some building operations that I do about once every year or two, and regret bitterly that I was dumb enough to try. Then I take a good long time forgetting, and for one reason or another I get tempted again. Wooden fillets is one of those. So the dorsal fin has a wooden fillet on side (lots-o-work), and epoxy with microballoons on the other (lots less work so far, and less filling needed, to boot).

I should get the fillet stuff that Randy Powell uses, but it'd be yet another mail ordered thing in my flammable liquids cabinet, taking up space and only getting used on one operation on each plane.

Tim Wescott · « **Reply #165 on:** January 27, 2013, 06:24:16 PM »

Spackle, sand, Polycrylic, spackle, sand, polycrylic.

Why is it that I can eyeball an airframe until my head caves in, yet as soon as I casually pick it up to put on another coat of primer I see dings? Old dings, that have obviously been there since the day I put the stupid thing together?

Joe Just · « **Reply #166 on:** January 27, 2013, 07:44:04 PM »

Gremlins! They moved from England at the end of WW2 as many of us remember.
Joe

Tim Wescott · « **Reply #167 on:** February 04, 2013, 06:08:03 PM »

No visible warps in the fuselage, even after starting in on the (water-based) Polycrylic finish.

I wish I could say the same about the wings. I messed up on the construction of those, and built in a nice little time bomb that went off when the Polycrylic hit it.

I distinctly remember really cramming on the skins in front of the spar, happily thinking "no gaps!". Apparently while I was doing that I was also failing to glue the skin down well onto the ribs. At any rate, when the Polycrylic hit it, I got these humongous warps except -- just to prove that it was my lack of workmanship in the wing, not my use of Polycrylic -- along two ribs where the bond with the skin was good. So. @#$%. Cut a horizontal line in the skin; peel the skin up so I have access to the ribs. Cut a very small section of wood out of the skin so that it'll lie flat. DO NOT PUSH HARD TO MAKE IT SEAT.

I'm pretty sure that this wasn't because of the Polycrylic, because I've used it on wings before, and because the sections behind the spar are just fine. I think I would have had this go sproing! at some point no matter what, very possibly the first time I left it out in the sun for a good long time.

All better now. Back to sanding and brushing and sanding and brushing. One day, perhaps even before I die, I'll be ready to shoot primer (I hate this phase, even without the boo-boos. Can you tell?)

john e. holliday · « **Reply #168 on:** February 05, 2013, 05:53:16 AM »

Yes, there is an art to doing the sheeting on leading edges. I use a lot of maskng tape, pins and a few words when doing the sheeting. A little secret for me is using Elmers White glue on the ribs. Even on 3/32 sheet I can get it to stick with the Monokote iron after the glue has dried.

Tim Wescott · « **Reply #169 on:** February 06, 2013, 04:02:24 PM »

Helpful sanding tip: sandpaper lasts longer if you refrain from dripping wet paint on it.

Joseph Lijoi · « **Reply #170 on:** February 06, 2013, 04:12:10 PM »

Quote from: john e. holliday on February 05, 2013, 05:53:16 AM

Yes, there is an art to doing the sheeting on leading edges. I use a lot of maskng tape, pins and a few words when doing the sheeting. A little secret for me is using Elmers White glue on the ribs. Even on 3/32 sheet I can get it to stick with the Monokote iron after the glue has dried.

Doc

What temp do you set the iron to?

john e. holliday · « **Reply #171 on:** February 07, 2013, 08:42:50 AM »

As hot as it takes to do Monokote. Sometimes you may have to hold the iron in place to get the glue to activate. Then hold til it cools.

dirty dan · « **Reply #172 on:** February 07, 2013, 11:40:27 AM »

This thread reminds me of one of the funniest lines to be uttered during Howard & Marilou's brunch a couple weeks ago.

Talk was of Howard's next Impact and Gary Letsinger was considering the suggestion that rear of fuselage be lengthened 2 inches.

I believe it was Steve Helmick who blurted out, "A Fancherized Impact!"

Dan

Tim Wescott · « **Reply #173 on:** February 07, 2013, 02:21:06 PM »

Sooo, a basketball center is a Fancherized guard?

Tim Wescott · « **Reply #174 on:** February 08, 2013, 11:44:34 AM »

Argh. More warps on the wing, this time on the sheeting on the top behind the spar. I've done three planes before this using Polycrylic as the base coat, and had no sign of problems. Now I'm doing a plane that will actually fly nice and be eligible for appearance points, and the damn thing warps up. I almost pulled the "it's just a profile, finish it out" card, but decided that I just couldn't do that. So -- lift up that sheeting and reglue, and put in filler, and sand, and redo the silkspan and AAUGH!!

At least so far I've successfully resisted the urge to drill a bunch of holes in the fuselage, mount half-formers, and add a planked fuselage "slipper" to my pre-existing perfectly good profile. I'm not quite sure how I've managed this feat, but I rather suspect that when I get this plane done it'll still be a profile.

Steve Helmick · « **Reply #175 on:** February 08, 2013, 12:52:10 PM »

Quote from: Tim Wescott on February 08, 2013, 11:44:34 AM

At least so far I've successfully resisted the urge to drill a bunch of holes in the fuselage, mount half-formers, and add a planked fuselage "slipper" to my pre-existing perfectly good profile. I'm not quite sure how I've managed this feat, but I rather suspect that when I get this plane done it'll still be a profile.

Good move, Tim. Have a plan, stick to the plan, build a plane, fly a plane. Above all, don't ask for advice, receive good advice, and then totally ignore that good advise. That tends to discourage people from giving good advise and get them pretty browned-off, OBTW. Just a passing thought...

Steve

PS: Clear dope is good stuff!

john e. holliday · « **Reply #176 on:** February 09, 2013, 09:00:37 AM »

I have used the water based poly-crylic paints in the past. Yes the surfaces do look like they are warping. I paint like I do with dope. Paint a couple of rib bays, flip plane over paint matching rib bays plus a couple more and reverse the plane again. Looks like a mess until the material has finally cured out. Never paint one whole wing panel and then do the other side at one time.

Avaiojet · « **Reply #177 on:** February 09, 2013, 03:19:06 PM »

Quote from: Tim Wescott on February 08, 2013, 11:44:34 AM

Argh. More warps on the wing, this time on the sheeting on the top behind the spar. I've done three planes before this using Polycrylic as the base coat, and had no sign of problems. Now I'm doing a plane that will actually fly nice and be eligible for appearance points, and the damn thing warps up. I almost pulled the "it's just a profile, finish it out" card, but decided that I just couldn't do that. So -- lift up that sheeting and reglue, and put in filler, and sand, and redo the silkspan and AAUGH!!

At least so far I've successfully resisted the urge to drill a bunch of holes in the fuselage, mount half-formers, and add a planked fuselage "slipper" to my pre-existing perfectly good profile. I'm not quite sure how I've managed this feat, but I rather suspect that when I get this plane done it'll still be a profile.

Tim,

Those warps you have in the wing. Do you have a swimming pool?

Charles

Tim Wescott · « **Reply #178 on:** February 09, 2013, 09:48:45 PM »

The wing is on! The sanding suddenly took a turn for the better -- the last two models I did I tried using Polycrylic, on the wood, then an acrylic primer. This one I went back to using silkspan applied with Polycrylic, then sanding sealer made with Polycrylic and baby powder. Things sanded out much easier than expected.

So, now the wing is glued in there with epoxy that has just enough microballoons added so that it'll stay put. Fillets next!

Tim Wescott · « **Reply #179 on:** February 11, 2013, 07:31:38 PM »

Fillet up.

Epoxy + microballoons + balsa dust. I have both phenolic and glass microballoons, and I always use a bit of the phenolic. It's mostly to make sure that I've mixed the two parts thoroughly (I pre-mix the microballoons with both the resin and the hardener), but it's also to color match. I missed this time. Less than 1/4 ounce of epoxy to do the whole wing!

Procedure:

sand the end of a bit of balsa (3/32") to a 90-degree point, then sand it to the desired radius
weigh out epoxy into separate cups.
mix a teeny bit of 99% isopropyl alcohol into each (this is an experiment -- if you see me with fallen-off fillets, you'll know how it came out)
mix a bit of phenolic microballoons into the hardener
mix a lot of glass microballoons into both the resin and the hardener, until both are at the consistency I want for the result
mix the two together until it's all one color
goober it on with your mixing stick -- you have to kind of shove it at the surface to get it to stick
sweep off the excess with your shaping stick. It won't be perfect, but get it fairly good
put on a latex glove, dip your finger in 99% isopropyl alcohol, and smooth the fillets out

Randy Powell · « **Reply #180 on:** February 18, 2013, 06:35:58 PM »

You go, Tim. I like the pushrod ends. This is what happens when you have a lathe and time on your hands.

Tim Wescott · « **Reply #181 on:** February 25, 2013, 03:08:19 PM »

Paint! Paint, paint, paint! Finally!

Of course, as soon as it was all white and shiny, the boo-boos that managed to get by me in the sealing-and-sanding phase just jumped out at me. I close my eyes. I close my eyes.

It's ready for a tiny bit of sanding to knock down the ridge where the masking tape was, then it'll be Monocoat time.

It took me a while to think of a color scheme that would be easy and not too boring. I'm sure of the easy part -- we'll find out about the boring part when I'm done. It'll be one of those basic "top one color, bottom another color, white in the middle" things that let you mask off the fuselage without trying to keep the tape stuck to the wing fillets as you spray.

Or, maybe I'll just fly an all-white plane. D'ya think if I cut out my AMA number from white Monocoat and stick it on the wing that it'll satisfy the rule for identifying the plane?

Tim Wescott · « **Reply #182 on:** February 27, 2013, 10:36:33 PM »

Wings covered. That's enough for tonight -- tomorrow I'll see if I can get the flaps and tail covered.

I had hoped to get the last coat of paint on by mid-month, so that I could start flying in early March. Obviously that won't be happening. Given that you need to give Rustoleum two weeks to harden before flying, that'll leave me with precious little flight time before the Tune Up. Oh well, I have this nice Banshee...

I had originally planned on painting the wingtips, but changed horses in midstream and decided to cover them instead. It turned out to be a not-bad idea. I was surprised at how well the Monocoat stretched to conform to the weight box hole in the right wing, although it managed to wrinkle a bit on the leadout exit on the left (not shown).

I also managed to screw up my clearances on the weight box cover: I thought I had allowed plenty of room for paint, but found when I put it on that it fits tightly. Ah well -- hopefully I won't end up ripping anything apart just to tune the airplane.

Avaiojet · « **Reply #183 on:** February 28, 2013, 05:44:07 AM »

Tim,

WOW!

Your weight box is absolutely great. Kudos!

You didn't buy that at Brodaks.

If you don't mind and if you could, I'd like to see what's under that fine fitting lid?

Great work, model is shapping up.

Charles

Tim Wescott · « **Reply #184 on:** February 28, 2013, 08:33:42 AM »

Quote from: Avaiojet on February 28, 2013, 05:44:07 AM

Tim,

WOW!

Your weight box is absolutely great. Kudos!

You didn't buy that at Brodaks.

If you don't mind and if you could, I'd like to see what's under that fine fitting lid?

Great work, model is shapping up.

Charles

Look back through this thread -- it's all there. But basically -- it's just a plywood box with a T-nut on the inside end.

Avaiojet · « **Reply #185 on:** February 28, 2013, 09:20:45 AM »

Tim,

Thanks, I see it!

I also noticed you have a rear weight box. Great idea! Are many builders adding weight boxes to the rear of their models?

Real neat application!

Also, I knew a modeler who used iron on covering so well, it looked like paint.

You did a great job with the covering also.

Trim ideas?

Charles

Tim Wescott · « **Reply #186 on:** March 01, 2013, 12:22:18 AM »

I spray blue tomorrow. Red Saturday. Black or gray or sky blue Sunday.

Masked with 3M green tape for the straight lines, friskit for the triangles on the wings.

Mark Scarborough · « **Reply #187 on:** March 01, 2013, 10:26:25 AM »

Hey Tim, your wing covering looks kinda sloppy in the last picture,, do you need a new iron to shrink it with?

Tim Wescott · « **Reply #188 on:** March 01, 2013, 01:03:41 PM »

All that work for four lousy triangles and a stripe. And when I go to mask for the red, I'm just going to do it again, for four more lousy triangles and a stripe.

Old hands will probably roll their eyes at this "revelation", but I burnished the edges of the frisket and the green tape where it defines the painted edge, and I have significantly fewer "leak unders", and those way smaller, on this than I've ever had before. I don't know if this was just luck or a trend, however.

The paint's still tacky -- this is an Allen Brickhaus thing: he recommends that for Rustoleum you take the masking off after an hour or so, so the paint has flashed off but has not yet cured. Then you go over the thing with a Q-tip and fix up any boo-boos where the paint bled under the tape. I did still have a few, particularly where I cut triangular holes in frisket and over-cut the apexes: there were a couple of places where there was a thin tail at the triangle apex where the paint bled into the crack.

Avaiojet · « **Reply #189 on:** March 01, 2013, 01:16:28 PM »

Tim,

Your Twister is shaping up!

Stab? Where's the stab?

Also, do you scuff the Monokote before spraying paint?

The model has a nice profile, I like it!!

Almost there.

Charles

MarcusCordeiro · « **Reply #190 on:** March 01, 2013, 01:37:48 PM »

Marcus

Tim Wescott · « **Reply #191 on:** March 03, 2013, 05:01:59 PM »

Burnishing the edges of the tape helps, but I got quite a few "leak unders" on the red. Grr.
I pulled up some paint close to the canopy area when I peeled off the masking tape. I think I didn't pull it off correctly, but still. Grr again. The picture is after feathering out the spot then brushing white into the hole -- the divot is still visible.
All that masking, for about six square inches of paint!!!

I just sprayed the black. We'll see if I pull up my 24-hour paint over my divot, if the black leaks under, etc. I don't think the canopy is going to look as good as I'd like -- but it'll be an identifiable canopy, so it won't be all bad.

Tim Wescott · « **Reply #192 on:** March 03, 2013, 05:03:59 PM »

Quote from: Avaiojet on March 01, 2013, 01:16:28 PM

Also, do you scuff the Monokote before spraying paint?

Yes. It's the first model that I've done so, so I can't say how much it'll help (greatly, I'm told). I've got a bunch where I did not scuff the 'coat (Mono- and Ultra-), and after about a year it chips a bit. To date this has not been an issue, because my airplanes simply haven't lasted that long. Now, I gotta pay attention.

Tim Wescott · « **Reply #193 on:** March 03, 2013, 06:35:33 PM »

One canopy. Or, maybe a slug died and turned black. This one won't win an award unless there's a prize for "most awkward looking canopy". The Genesis fuse profile doesn't really have a canopy in it, and I needed to do a better job with the red if I wanted to make it look like that plane's canopy.

(Bob Hunt actually did a pretty good job with his canopy, even if when you look at it objectively it's just a black ellipse painted onto the fuselage with a couple of white stripes through it).

john e. holliday · « **Reply #194 on:** March 04, 2013, 08:17:37 AM »

Something I've done in the past and even today is to brush a coat of clear along the edge of the tape. The canopy looks a lot better than what I have done. Looks great.

Tim Wescott · « **Reply #195 on:** March 04, 2013, 10:17:03 AM »

One of the drawbacks to the Rustoleum system is that they don't have a clear. There may be some clear that would be compatible, but I don't know what it is, and doing a bunch of experimentation doesn't get me to saving time and money by using paints from the hardware store.

My long-term plan is that when I start really feeling held back by the appearance points, or when I get to the point where I'm not crashing at least once a year then I'm going to start learning how to finish with dope.

I'm actually wondering if the reason I had better luck with the blue was because I did a thin fog coat all around, then waited for it to dry, then painted. The red came out of a rattle-can instead of a paint gun, so it just went on thicker the first time around, and the black was going onto such a small area that even though I held off on purpose, I probably didn't do the "let dry then paint over" thing as well. "Thin fog then paint" isn't as good as a coat of clear, I know -- but it's something that I can do!

Mike Haverly · « **Reply #196 on:** March 04, 2013, 01:11:49 PM »

Tim, two part polyurethane AKA "death paint" would go over rustoleum, but then it will go over about anything!

Bill Little · « **Reply #197 on:** March 04, 2013, 01:38:52 PM »

Quote from: Mike Haverly on March 04, 2013, 01:11:49 PM

Tim, two part polyurethane AKA "death paint" would go over rustoleum, but then it will go over about anything!

Hi Mike,

You beat me to it! And there is a "2 part" available in a spray can. Eddie Ruane has used it and posted about it. It looks great when applied!

BIG Bear
RNMM/AMM

Bill Little · « **Reply #198 on:** March 04, 2013, 01:52:26 PM »

I would also feel pretty safe in applying MinWax Polyurethane clear (in the black can) over Rustoleum. Test a small area first just in case, but there should not be anything in the MinWax which would attack the Rustoleum. The black spray can IS NOT the "Polycrylic".

BIG Bear
RNMM/AMM

Tim Wescott · « **Reply #199 on:** March 04, 2013, 04:20:31 PM »

Here's another picture, just because I had to show it to the vinyl guy to get letters cut.

I probably should have primed and painted the stab, glued it into the fuse along with the wing, and had nice fillets. I just plain wimped out -- but I may actually make it to the Tune Up with this thing!

Author Topic: Fancherized Twister Build (Read 70426 times)

Joe Just