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Author Topic: Excellent mold making material  (Read 1222 times)

Offline Will Hinton

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Excellent mold making material
« on: December 16, 2007, 02:36:46 PM »
Hey Y'all,
I'm always in the search mode for new material for making molds and just used one of the best and cheapest yet.  I don't really like plaster of paris all that much, and this mold was for a 16" long concave sanding  block - nothing to do with model airplanes, but is something I will use in the future for cowls, etc. 
I found it at Menards and it is a 1 pound set of epoxy called Power Poxy Weld.  I chose the thickest stuff, but there's three different viscosities of it.  This was reinforced with Kevlar and is VERY stiff to work with, but usable for my current purpose.  The one lb set did a block that is 16" long by 2 1/4" wide by around 1/2" thick and is "tank worthy".  That is, ya could run over it with a tank and not hurt it.
For making a permanent mold for pants or cowls I would use the next thinner stuff and do a total surround method then saw it in two as the normal method is.  I think you could use that mold forever, and the best part is the glossy surface of the inner section!  One would have to do very little finishing to have a good release surface.
The price?  Only a paltry 10 bucks with sales tax! #^ #^ #^ CLP** HH%% HH%%
Blessings,
Will
John 5:24   www.fcmodelers.com

Offline don Burke

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Re: Excellent mold making material
« Reply #1 on: December 17, 2007, 05:45:52 AM »
Will,

re: sawing the pattern in half.

This method is useful to make mold halves easier to part.  I remember doing it, but a long time ago.  Glue a facing of paper (grocery bag) to the material for the master mold on the parting line, both sides.   This gives a easily "peeled apart" surface and also serves as a reference line for carving the pattern.  This would save the sawing and accompanying loss of material.  You do have to be careful when carving to not put too much stress on the paper otherwise it comes apart.
don Burke AMA 843
Menifee, CA

Offline Bill Little

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Re: Excellent mold making material
« Reply #2 on: December 17, 2007, 07:34:17 AM »
I need som ehelp here, as I have never actually tried this.........

I have seen fuselage molds (Al Rabe) made with 1/2 formers and sheet rock mud or Plaster of Paris.   I am guessing that you really have to mix it up stiff and keep working it until it cures...... ?? ?? ?? ??

Any clarification here is helpful.
Big Bear <><

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Offline Al Rabe

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Re: Excellent mold making material
« Reply #3 on: December 17, 2007, 08:15:37 AM »
First of all the stuff is lightweight joint compound which is sort of a plaster.  second, I usually fill my forms somewhat with with anything bulky like scrap balsa or crushed paper to reduce the amount of compound required.  I mix about a quart of compound at a time and smear it on with my bare hands, then wash my hands, mixer, bucket and all.  It washes quickly with just flowing water, takes about a minute and is ready to repeat the mixing.  the best part about this stuff is that it cuts beautifully with a Sanley Sureform shaper which is kind of a rasp with hundreds of openings for the shavings to pass through.  With the Sureform, the 20 minute compound cuts easier than balsa and sands well the next day with a power sander to remove carving marks.  I fill two Bearcat half fuselage mold forms with 6-8 mixings of compound for each side.  The operation is continuous.  I add compound to one form while the other is setting up.  As the form begins to fill, I begin to carve it down to shape.  Another nice thing about the compound is that there is no detectable seam where the layers meet.  It takes about two hours to mix, clean, apply and shape the two fuselage half forms.  The next day I sand for about five minutes and glass the molds.  Plaster molds have to be waterproofed for molding wet balsa.  I have simply painted them, which worked OK but glassing is nearly as quick and makes a longer lasting mold.

Offline Will Hinton

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Re: Excellent mold making material
« Reply #4 on: December 17, 2007, 08:25:44 AM »
Don, thanks for the hint!  I'll adopt that technique for sure!  It will also save the hassle of trying to hold the blasted thing straight while sawing.
Bill,
I don't use this type of molding technique for fuse halves, only for cowlings and wheel pants and smaller stuff like that that I make out of glass or carbon.  For the fuse sides on my Seirra I used ply formers and styrofoam.  I hot wire cut the foam around the formers after it was all one big blob and then sanded and shaped it to the final form.  Then I simply wrapped a half at a time onto the male buck and let'er dry.  I'm sure you've watched Billy & Bob on the video of molding balsa - I do the compound curves the same way they do, the only difference in the way I go about it is that I make a left and right half of the full fuse instead of several assamblies.  Not saying they are wrong, I just do it different.
I also use foam if I'm just molding a turtle deck or some other smaller part with balsa.  It's much easier to make the buck with that.
I only use the epoxy for female molds - I could have said this first and left out all the prattle above, huh?  Oh well, Donna always did say I'm wordy!
Blessings,
Will
John 5:24   www.fcmodelers.com

Offline Bill Little

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Re: Excellent mold making material
« Reply #5 on: December 17, 2007, 10:18:28 AM »
First of all the stuff is lightweight joint compound which is sort of a plaster.  second, I usually fill my forms somewhat with with anything bulky like scrap balsa or crushed paper to reduce the amount of compound required.  I mix about a quart of compound at a time and smear it on with my bare hands, then wash my hands, mixer, bucket and all.  It washes quickly with just flowing water, takes about a minute and is ready to repeat the mixing.  the best part about this stuff is that it cuts beautifully with a Stanley Sureform shaper which is kind of a rasp with hundreds of openings for the shavings to pass through.  With the Sureform, the 20 minute compound cuts easier than balsa and sands well the next day with a power sander to remove carving marks.  I fill two Bearcat half fuselage mold forms with 6-8 mixings of compound for each side.  The operation is continuous.  I add compound to one form while the other is setting up.  As the form begins to fill, I begin to carve it down to shape.  Another nice thing about the compound is that there is no detectable seam where the layers meet.  It takes about two hours to mix, clean, apply and shape the two fuselage half forms.  The next day I sand for about five minutes and glass the molds.  Plaster molds have to be waterproofed for molding wet balsa.  I have simply painted them, which worked OK but glassing is nearly as quick and makes a longer lasting mold.

Thanks, Al.  That pretty well answers what I needed to know.  I am intending to make a turtle deck mold that is fairly large, and I only have white beaded foam which isn't real good for the purpose.  Wood and joint compound I can get!
Big Bear <><

Aberdeen, NC

James Hylton Motorsports/NASCAR/ARCA

AMA 95351 (got one of my old numbers back! ;D )

Trying to get by

Offline Al Rabe

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Re: Excellent mold making material
« Reply #6 on: December 17, 2007, 07:11:14 PM »
Bill,

I have also used foam to fill the mold forms.  It works OK, but I prefer the finish I get from the joint compound, plus, the joint compound is very friendly to carve.

Al

Offline Dave Nyce

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Re: Excellent mold making material
« Reply #7 on: December 18, 2007, 07:17:43 AM »
Cheese and bread are both pretty good mold-making materials.  If you leave them uncovered in the refrigerator, or just out on the countertop, you should have some pretty good mold after about a week.  Just make sure that the bread doesn't get dried-out too much.
Dave Nyce   New Bern, NC 
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Offline don Burke

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Re: Excellent mold making material
« Reply #8 on: December 19, 2007, 08:23:56 AM »
Will,
About the splitting the two halves after carving.  The paper layers make it so that a thin blade knife will do the job.  No saw required.
don Burke AMA 843
Menifee, CA

Offline Bill Little

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Re: Excellent mold making material
« Reply #9 on: December 19, 2007, 09:47:03 AM »
Bill,

I have also used foam to fill the mold forms.  It works OK, but I prefer the finish I get from the joint compound, plus, the joint compound is very friendly to carve.

Al

Thanks, Al.

I *might* partially fill the *holes* with some of that dreaded beaded foam, and the rest with the joint compound.  How's that sound?

Merry Christmas!
Big Bear <><

Aberdeen, NC

James Hylton Motorsports/NASCAR/ARCA

AMA 95351 (got one of my old numbers back! ;D )

Trying to get by


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