I wrap one end of each line first and then run them out with the wrapped end secured by a nail in a board or something to keep the eyelets concentric and firmly held on the ground. I usually do it at the field, laying everything out on the ground and finishing the ends right there.
When you go out to the bare ends and mark your desired length you need to pay special attention to the stretch in the lines. Gently tug on each one and get a feel for how much potential error there is due to unequal stretch while wrapping. I mark the apex of the ends with a very slight kink. Only as much of a bend as they'll end up with. Enough to see it, but not enough to create a weak spot. Maybe a 5 degree bend over your thumbnail. You need to do this right after you get a feel for the stretch to be sure they're truly the same length. The kink is where you'll line up the eyelet.
Wrap and complete one of the remaining ends. This now becomes your length reference and the kink is your starting guide. Make your loop with the kink central at the apex of the loop and the eyelet in place. You may need to temporarily hold the loop and eyelet firm with a bulldog clip or something so that you can tug on BOTH lines to get a feel for the stretch again and make sure the EYELETS this time, line up as closely as you can get them while each line is under the same load.
Once you're confident they are equal wrap, crimp, solder (or whatever) that last end permanently. Check again by tugging on the lines that they are even under light load. Its not that they will stretch differently, the tugging is just to be absolutely sure they're both straight and under the SAME loading. You should be able to get them within 1/16" pretty easily like this with practice.
Go back and check all the ends for any potential hazards and pull test them before use. If in doubt, cut the end off and start again. That way you only loose 2-3" of line length instead of your whole kit.
Topic: Equal Line Lenght (Read 1961 times)
