Getting the stabilizer hinge line parallel with the wing hinge line is critical. Get it off and the plane will never get trimmed.  As bad a a permanent incidence problem.

I got tired of using yard sticks, measuring tapes, punching holes in the covering, etc. I don't remember how or when I came up with this idea, but I have never seen it published and no one showed me this. Just lucky I guess on coming up with it out of frustration. 
Take two 1/8 or 3/32" square strips of spruce and lay them over the side view of the plans.  Drill two very tiny holes at each end and ACC in a large Tee pin in each end.
Attach the stab and pin /glue it in place, but loose enough for moving it slightly.  Take one of the spruce spars and place the pin in the TE/LE gap of the Stab and then the wing. Do the same on the other side. Then make sure, using a 90 degree triangle, the two spars are square to the TE/LE of the stab. This will make a true rectangle and the stab will be true to the wings TE, this works even if the TE is swept forward because the spars are placed at the same place on each side.  I use Ambroid to give me more working time and if a mistake is made, I can use Acetone to loosen the stab and redo it.  By doing this with the plane upside down, the incidence will usually also be zero. That is if the incidence is supposed to be zero and assuming the top of the fuselage is in line with the thrust line and wing center or chord line. 

A guy could get real creative and make an adjustable pair with set screws and everything, or keep it simple with throwaway pairs as you show.  Very useful idea, sure beats measuring, adjusting, re-measuring, re-adjusting, etc., etc. Just lock it in place--once!  Thanks, Ty.

--Ray

Ty,

You are so right. I use a different method, but there's more than one way to skin a cat. I can't imagine another way to do it than your method if the flaps and elevator are already attached. I use a jig to do it, but the flaps and elevator can't be on there to use the jig.

Very cool and simple method, ty. I like it.

What an excellent idea I always used a wooden yardstick and measured doing it your way there is no messing around

I always use 5 minute epoxy. gives you time to align everything (if you have you stuff together) but sets fast enough so it won't move with an accidental bump. Also fills the gap(s) if the stab seat isn't perfect and no shrinkage to pull things out of alignment.