Mornin',  I'm thinkin about three hinges per side of elevator, starting about 1 inch from the joiner wire, and  the same from the end of the elev, then split the difference for the center hinge.
  This is the way that I do mine when I use pinned hinges.
 Most of the time on this type model, I use dacron hinges that I dope on the the flying surfaces, putting them next to each other, over and under.
 By putting them next to each other you have a sealed hinge line.

   Hope that this helps...

Use cloth hinges from CLC or cut from cover all fabric from SIG.   

Hi Doc,
           just having a quick look at your work here tells me that instead of taking material out by cutting or drilling holes into the TE you have added to it and I will wager that the TE and the flap is now far stronger and stiffer than with any other method of hinging.

Personally clothes hinges don't take my fancy but a neat job just looks so wonderfully 'retro' in the nicest of ways.

The doubling up of hinges is for what? Ensuring that they do not pull lose at the tips?
I can see the logic train behind it but can't help but wonder why just one at that tip shouldn't work if its done properly (as in pinned through the TE to prevent pull out.)

Cheers.

I have had and seen single hinges break for some odd reason at the tip.   Maybe it is the way I put them in.

Hi mate,
              please define 'break' here. Do you mean pull loose or physically destruct?

Perhaps the next size up in hinges is called for or the use of 'Robart' ones instead?

Cheers.

I would say it really depends on what type and size hinge you are using, also.  I have a good supply of Kleet large hinges so 3 per side on a Twister is all I would use.  Installed like Doc said.

I really prefer the nylon taffeta "over/under" hinges run full length to seal the hinge line.

BIG Bear
RNMM/AMM