Man that is a great idea on the control surface jigs,,
I took a peice of particle board, slit a groove in it, and CA my brass tabs into the slit,, but well its only good for ONE airplane,,
I see a project on my horizon

Wing install.

I have alot of pictures of the wing install.

I will try to touch on the process but as always pictures are worth a thousand words.

1-2-3. Initial layout and alignment of the fuse on the table.  I use medium CA and kicker and glue the fuse to the table.  Using kicker it keeps the glue getting too deep into the wood and it pops off table at the end rather easily.  I use two squares to make sure the fuse is lined up square with the building surface.
4-5. Initial fit, just the first of what seemed liked 75,000 fits.
6. Using a small square I am able to measure the height of the trailing edge and the depth of the trailing edge off the of the back of the building surface.

Wing Install continued.

It is important to fill any gaps in the wing saddle with wood. They need to fit flush but not create pressure during the install.
14. Using 1/16" and 1/32" balsa you can see the shim line up on the inside of the fuse. I drop some thin CA on the inside.
15. Score the wood along the fuse outside and lift up
16. I am certain not to cut through it, scoring it is plenty.  
17. Lift up and it snaps off with ease.
18. 1/8" Plywood pivot block.
19. Hysol 2 part 24 hour epoxy.
20. Hysol application gun makes for a very easy install.  The long stem has baffles in it and it mixes the two part epoxy as it is squeezed through for application.
 
 

Wing Install continued.

21. Hysol applied with applicator, easy as pie.
22. After the epoxy is dry cut the excess pivot flush with the block and attach 1/16" plywood cover.
23. Block the top of wing up against F2 and relieve any excess maple motor mount.
24. Using a protractor I can adjust the total throw of the flap horn and make sure it is equal in both directions.
25-26. Using 5/32 copper tubing over the flap horn it is easier to see the total throw.
27. Flap Horn push rod connected to the horn.
 

Doug,

Thanks for showing so much detail.  Really enjoying watching your build and learning a lot!

Take care,
Jason

Marcus sent me massage asking about how I am going to mount my engine.

I use standard maple beams. I mount aluminum pads using 6/32 bolts and blind nuts to the beams. Then I tap the pads for 6/32 bolts and mount the motor to the pads.  

I have added a couple of pics to show how it works.

Getting more work done.

Push rod is installed.
Linkage at the flaphorn.

I am very surprised you do not drill the holes for the motor before you add the crutch to the sides. I use to do it like yours until a motor mt split. I now drill them and add the spacer. It looks very nice. I was just given one of those fancy fuselage jigs. I wish I had it 30 years ago.
Ed

Doug,

Thank you very much for posting this informative building process. It is greatly appreciated and I follow every steps joyfully.
I am crossing fingers it will be continued for the painting process as well.


thank you very much
sina

Next I seal the pipe floor, bottom of the wing, tank and engine compartment.

I use 5 minute epoxy thinned with alcohol until the consistency is the same.  Brush it on with an epoxy brush.
Once its dry the wood is sealed and shouldn't absorb any oil. At least it should be resistant.
Trim and test fit the bottom block/pipe tunnel.

 

Gear Continued,

7. Next I use my dremel and rough sanding drum and rough the gear wire.  It removes any residue from the wire.  Glue will stick to the surface no problem once it is roughed out. Using 5 minute epoxy I fill the groove a little and slide the wire into the groove then place on the gear door.  Using a speed square I make sure the wire dries 90 degrees to the gear door.
8. Once they are dry I use some 1/8 balsa scrap to make some sort of small shock looking actuator.  You can see I left a gap in there to also give the appearance of a shock.
9. Complete and in the plane/
10. The finished product will look something like this. The dressing on each end is an aluminum tube cut to fit.

I learned the method of fake shocks from Windy on the spitfire series.  I modified the attachment using a grooved dowel.

Doug  Some very nice idea's. I like the gear. I used that Motor mounting method for a few years so I could change motors. Not sure why I stoped. I think I will go back to it. How thick is the pad??
Ed

More progress.

The bottom blocks are on.  I used molded 3/32" balsa.  
When I remove the wraps from the molds I sand the blocks before pulling them off the mold.  It's easy to get a real nice surface when they are on the mold.
I thin down some 5 minute epoxy with alcohol and sealed the inside of the tunnel before I mount it to the plane.  I also seal the tank area, engine bay, pipe valley at this point.
Next I slip it back on the mold and trim the edges off even with the bottom of the mold.
Then I take my time using a long block and sand the edges where the mold will lay nice and flat on the table and then final fit sand it to where it will lay nice and flat on the plane with no pressure to hold it in place.  You never want to have to apply much more than a resting hand amount of pressure when gluing the mold onto the fuse.  If you do apply alot of pressure to put it in place it will constantly be under pressure trying to twist away from its attachement and could warp your fuse.  You will know this when your stab no longer lines up with the wing....ask me how I know this......  Using thin CA I tack the mold in place, each corner first then work my way back alog the sides.  Four or five dots per side.  Once satisfied I hold the plane vertical and apply thin CA from the front on the seam.  It runs down the joint.  Once it kicks off I apply a little medium as well in the same manner.  Probably overkill.  Then I sand out the seams on the outside with the long block.  Then fill any gaps.

1. Block tacked in place.
2. Glued from the inside.  The block looks a little off on the back end exit area, most of that is trimmed away for the pipe exit. Even though the shell is only 3/32" think there is still alot of shaping to do.  On on the front side I will install 1/64" ply flat about 1/2" wide in the lip to help protect it and keep the shape.
3. Finished. The rear block is installed as well in this picture.  It is installed in the same manner.  The back is open during install and I can run some CA in from there.  But since it is very had to see if it is covered I will usually run some thin on the
outside of this seam as well.  I just have to make sure I sand it out.
4. I just think this is a funny pic.  

Continued,

8. Trim the mold to length.  I base this on where the back will meet up with the turtle deck.  On this model it is right where the fuse taper begins. 
9. Large pie shaped piece out of the front is trimmed up for final joining.
10. Joined the two edges together with thin CA. Flipped upside down and prepare to add in some wood under the nose.  I like to add in a piece of 1/16 under the far forward nose section of the shell.  Helps with a larger gluing surface and additional wood under in case I go through on the initial shaping.
11. I put some medium CA in the shell and press in some 1/16” with the grain going the same direction.  I am sure to slightly curve the piece first so the inner part touches the shell first and work it out ward from there.  The glue goes off fast so if I press in from the edges it won’t get up into the shell before it kicks there will be spot where it isn’t attached, right where I need it the most.
12. Making sure I have the fit I want with the shell up against the nose ring I start working from the back using medium CA and gluing each side down a little at a time as I work forward. I lift it up ever so slightly and put in several inches of glue and just work my way towards the nose.  I start from the back because it is easier to keep it lined up on the fuse sides.  There will be overhang on the side at the front to the alignment there is not as critical.
13. All glued down and ready for initial shaping.
14. You can see where that filler piece comes in handy….how do you think I learned that one….??
15. Initial shaping done.  I may try to knock it down a little more to get a more subtle dive into the spinner but there isn’t much past that high point.  I should have made my filler piece a little longer, that’s always the case by the way.  HAHAHAHAAHAHAHAHA!  Sometimes I learn and other times, not so much.
16. Here it is with the turtle deck on as well. 

This plane is about 2” longer than the last one built with these molds, last year’s model.  I made a few adjustments along the way as this will be a 75 model.  The turtle deck mold came out a little short in length and in height.  I added 3/8” strip of 3/32 to the bottom on each side of the mold.  Then trimmed and sanded and attached it in the same manner as the front.  Then about 2” in the back was open and I used a small block to fill in the space.  Not a big deal really and seam is behind the back of the stab.  I think it turned out pretty good.  These blocks were added in one building session about 3 hours.  It can be tedious but it turns out pretty good and the less balsa dust I breath the better.   

Doug where did you get your epoxy gun and tubes at?

Have you got the paint scheme worked out?

Doug, are you going to fit elevator tip plates? If so what material do you use?

A little more progress this weekend.

I trimmed a little of the rudder and fit it one more time and then went for it. 

I use an airfoiled rudder.  Nothing special just sand a nice curve into it.
I also fill the back of the fuse to match flush with the fuse and then sand out smooth.

Looks killer, I have always liked the way you do the molded bottom block. I just leave the whole tunnel open on the bottom.

Derek

Canopy time. 
I cant stand the sun melting my canopies. I usually pretty good about keeping them safe.  But on my last plane I have a small indention from the sun at 8:45 in the morning at our last contest.  AARRGGGGHHHH!!! 

1. I thought about starting out with a blue canopy this time and going silver over it.
2. Talked some with Eric V, Derek B, and Steve F and thought I would try a wood canopy.  They said it would be lighter too....  To be honest I wasnt sure it would be....  Inital block, looks great huh?
3. Side of the belt sander made initail carve out a snap!
4. Getting closer.
5. Almost Done.
6. 16g
7. 2g
8. Finished.  Looks like it should.

Next up is the cowl.

Anybody else notice the little silver truck at bottom of the checklist on the bench?

Anybody else notice the little silver truck at bottom of the checklist on the bench?

Yep, that little truck has been on the bench through thick and thin on this build.  I think, my son 5, put it up there at the start.  It's brought me good luck so far....  It's not going anywhere until this is over.  

He saw it the other day and asked if I was still using it, like he was thinking he wanted it back.  I said I will be done with it soon.  He smiled and said "Ok."  Than ran off to cause mayhem throughout the backyard!!

Time for the cowl.

I really like balsa cowls and all the cool curves and vents you make in them but I always figure out a way to damage them or the fuel eats away the mounts and it is a constant battle to keep them in good condition.

I couple of years ago I learned the foam plug covered in glass method and I have had good results so far.  It creates a light weight semi flexible fuel proof part.

1. Create a base using 1/32 plywood for the foam plug.  This becomes the part of the cowl that is up against the plane when the cowl is mounted.
2. Mount the base to the plane in the same manner as I will once the cowl is complete.  I have embedded brass inserts at the front and the washers are glued to the base.  I make the base a little bit smaller than the fuse all the way around.  The leave a little room for the layers of glass to build up and become flush with the fuse.
3. Protect the fuse from the long sanding block I will be using to shape the part.
4. Add the foam.  I use the green foam you find at arts and crafts stores used for fake plants.  I epoxy it to the base with 5 minute.
5. Initial shaping is done with a zona saw. This stuff is about as soft as cold butter.  It is very easy to dent it or gouge it.  I have to be very careful when working with it.

6. I switch to a long sanding block and work the part down to match the fuse shape.  I am careful to work my way from the back of the model forward so as not to make the front of the cowl smaller than the back.  The style here is the cowl is just an extension of the fuse and there is no curve to it.
7. Using a sharpie I draw out what I want the profile to look like.
8. Back to the zona saw and I cut it out. Again I have to be very careful not to squeeze the part when handling it.
9. I have removed the plug from the plane and shaped it down to match the base.  I glue a large piece of scrap balsa to the base.
10. Put in my vise and layout the strips of glass and get ready to cover the plug.  Mix up some really nasty dark looking ProSet epoxy. Its old but it still dries hard as a rock!

11. Apply the epoxy and glass with an epoxy brush.  I wear latex gloves and use my fingers my fingers to lightly press around the base making sure the glass is making contact all the way around.
12. Another view.
13.  After it cures over night I trim away the excess and remove the balsa scrap from the base.
14. Initial fit to the fuse.
15. Initial sanding, using 80-100 grit paper.  It is apparent I have made it just a tad too small.  I am not going to try to sand the bottom block down to it.  Its only 3/32 and I don’t want it any thinner.