I find it is very important to sand all the pieces before attempting to glue or paint them.

Ty,

Good points. I know that CyA didn't work on a few old 'uns I worked on. Even when I brushed the parts good beforehand with a dry paintbrush. I had better luck with Titebond. I may have thinned it with water, too. I wonder how polyurethane glue (Gorrilla glue) would work.  I sure wouldn't bother with model cement! Problem is, that you get your glue systems all worked out with what goes where for best results, but now you have to factor in the "too old to stick" thing.

I haven't noticed any issues with paint, but that is probably because: (a) a lot of sanding happens after assembly and before painting; and (b) my paint jobs are of a nature that multiple things always cause issues, and old wood might just be one more piece of the overall disappointment.

A few years back, I picked up a couple of Stanzel kits. Now them puppies wuz old! I figure I'll age 'em a bit more before getting out the glue for that job....

The Divot

PS--Opened up a Veco Papose kit that was recently gifted to me. After reading the assembly "plans," by following the arrowhead trail, I realized why a lot of guys used to think you had to build the assemblies "in hand."  Because the nice isometric illustrations look like the parts are floating in space. The Veco wood is old enough that it won't like CyA, either.