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Author Topic: Brushing dope  (Read 1073 times)

Offline Ironbomb

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Brushing dope
« on: September 24, 2006, 11:13:27 AM »
How can an airplane be made to look good with brushed dope finish? I am aware to not work the dope the brush after its layed down to avoid roping, but I always see the brush marks. I know airplanes were built and had brushed dope before everyone had compressors, but how do I make a dope finish look good by brushing?

I am thinking about sanding off the rattle can paint I have on my Strathmoor and going with brushed Butyrate. Its peeling pretty easy when I remove tape, even low tack blue tape also pulled some paint. So now the bond of my white is in question. I would have been done with this plane a week ago if I didnt have the problems with the finish.

I enjoy the building part of making a model airplane. Making it look good is a PITA  >:(

I aint giving up, but this is kicking my a$$

I guess I need some food for thought while I decide if I should sand off the rattle can paint, or try and use whats there. So any advice on a brushed dope finish is what I am after. Rememeber, I dont have a dang compressor yet.

Thanks guys

Greg
Beating the crap out of the ground, one airplane at a time

Greg Bossio
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Offline Bill Little

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Re: Brushing dope
« Reply #1 on: September 24, 2006, 11:15:54 AM »
Hi Greg,

It is simply a matter of using very fine sandpaper (800-2000 wet) to remove the brush marks, pretty much like rubbing out any dope finish.  It will just take a bit longer, and you *might* have to do more touch up.

Bill <><
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Offline Roger Vizioli

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Re: Brushing dope
« Reply #2 on: September 24, 2006, 12:49:02 PM »
Greg,
You did not say what kind of "rattle can" paint you used.
Be careful re. compatability w/ Butyrate.
Test a small section on the bottom.
Roger 
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Offline Steve Helmick

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Re: Brushing dope
« Reply #3 on: September 24, 2006, 03:36:56 PM »
My Humongus, built by Emil Kovak, had an all clear doped finish, applied by brush. The fuselage and topside of the wing was like glass, after sanding with progressively finer sandpaper down to 2000 grit. The bottom of the wing was left unsanded, and showed where it started, before sanding. PW took a good look at it, and he was amazed. PW also flew it once, and it was my turn to be amazed. OBTW, Emil claimed there were 8 coats of clear Brodak dope on the model. Probably not thinned a lot. When I crashed it, a piece of silkspan seemed very thick and stiff.

The last crash took the LG off, which damaged the stabalizer as it went by. The wing sorta split along the LE & TE, horizontally. I've fixed a lot of busted airplanes, but I was clueless as to how to fix this damage. I crashed out of the second vertical 8, when turbulence from the trees at Ft. Dent park hit it. I lost line tension, got it back, attempted to complete the V8, and lost it again. I guess I shoulda pulled out inverted or half outside looped back to upright. I still don't like doing the V8... :X Steve
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In 1944 18-20 year old's stormed beaches, and parachuted behind enemy lines to almost certain death.  In 2015 18-20 year old's need safe zones so people don't hurt their feelings.


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