Steven, if you do leave the stab as-is, the fix for imminent breakage at the root is a 1/2 or 3/8 triangular balsa fillet underneath each side. That's a must-do mod.
Add a 1/8"ply doubler under the LG mount. Wrap and epoxy fiberglass inside, under the LG mount area, and continue it around onto the sides of the fuse in that compartment. Then drill for three 4-40 bolts with blind nuts and washers to secure the LG rather than the wood screws. Two bolts in front, one in rear.
The flap hinge cutouts are a terrible weak point in the fuse and I would strengthen that area on the outside with fiberglass and epoxy too. Since the hinge lines are not swept at an angle, lucky boxes would accomplish nothing but more work.
Secure the flap wire axle with a u-retainer on each side out side of the little balsa fairings. They are supposed to retain it from flexing, but some 1/16" wire bent into a u and epoxied in to add strength made me feel better about mine.
All the chinakote seams are on the edges of wing, flaps, everything. Tape them down all over the plane with clear tape, or it'll come off in a few flights.
I slit the vertical rear of the fuse and installed a 1/2"(I think) spreader block to give you more room to work in there and make future adjustments. I built lead weight into the vertical spreader block. It still may not allow a ball link to fit. But get a good Sullivan clevis, as the one in the kit will break the second time you try to spread it for adjusting. I made a trap door over that area on the side of the fuse too. I sleeved the long rod with CF tube to prevent flexing.
It's getting late, I'll add more later.
Rusty