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Author Topic: Bell Crank Support mounting  (Read 1690 times)

Offline Leester

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Bell Crank Support mounting
« on: June 12, 2006, 02:43:32 PM »
Being a little gun shy I thought I'd run this by the Hangar crew first. I am putting in a suspended bell crank, my mounts are as pictured. They span the center four ribs with the straight side up against the spars. Each rib is notched to accept the mounts at 1/8" depth where shown on the mount. I will epoxy the mount to each rib and the spar. Do I need anymore support? Of course there is sheeting covering the center section.  Thanks
Leester
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Offline RC Storick

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Re: Bell Crank Support mounting
« Reply #1 on: June 12, 2006, 02:50:33 PM »
That will work just fine! Also add a piece of 1/16 plywood 1X1 inch (Epoxy) top and bottom of sheeting after sheeting is on the wing. It captures it. I always solder a washer on top and bottom of the 1/8 wire.
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Offline RandySmith

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Re: Bell Crank Support mounting
« Reply #2 on: June 12, 2006, 02:58:28 PM »
and   NEVER  use  JB weld  on  the bellcrank, the vibration will crack it and the bellcrank will get loose

Randy

Offline Leester

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Re: Bell Crank Support mounting
« Reply #3 on: June 12, 2006, 03:27:03 PM »
Randy: Do you solder? or wheel collars?
Leester
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Offline RC Storick

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Re: Bell Crank Support mounting
« Reply #4 on: June 12, 2006, 03:36:22 PM »
I will try to explain. 1/8 rod first you put fuel line on ,then a 1/8 wheel collar then a washer then bell crank then the  washer then the collar then the fuel line. Use the fuel line to center it between the bearers.
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Offline Leester

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Re: Bell Crank Support mounting
« Reply #5 on: June 12, 2006, 03:45:40 PM »
Robert: Understood y1 y1 y1 y1 y1 j1 j1 j1 j1
Leester
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Offline Greg L Bahrman

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Re: Bell Crank Support mounting
« Reply #6 on: June 12, 2006, 10:31:45 PM »
Leester,
That is almost a direct copy of what I and many others do. Put the ply plate flush with the top of the spar of course you'll have to notch the ribs so that the top of the plate is even with the top of the ribs and then when you sheet the center section of the wing the ply will also get attached to the sheeting both top and bottom. Another benefit of doing it this way is that you get a glue joint along the top spar and the bottom spar about 6 inches long on each spar and the joint is in shear which is the strongest way to do it. And a side benefit is that the center section of the wing is strengthened by the bellcrank mount. In the picture below the center sheeting will butt up against the leading edge sheeting and go over the top of the ply mounting plate with glue or epoxy. You will be styling.   
:!
« Last Edit: July 20, 2006, 08:44:13 PM by Greg L Bahrman »
Greg Bahrman, AMA 312522
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Offline Dennis Moritz

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Re: Bell Crank Support mounting
« Reply #7 on: June 22, 2006, 07:40:20 PM »
Nice. I will steel.

Offline Bill Little

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Re: Bell Crank Support mounting
« Reply #8 on: June 25, 2006, 09:21:51 AM »
Yep, the picture that Greg posted is the best method of mounting a bellcrank I have used, so far.  I will try Al Rabe's new method shortly on a built up plane.
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Offline Dennis Moritz

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Re: Bell Crank Support mounting
« Reply #9 on: June 25, 2006, 09:15:00 PM »
A club member recommended providing a fixed end to the bellcrank arc. A bump or bumper to define the end of the up/down movement. I usually do this with 1/8" ply tabs that make endstops for the crank. One for each end usually attached to the outboard rib backing up the crank. (IS any of this clear. I don't have digital camera.) This also helps define the middle of the arc as the point at which the pushrod is centered. Seems to me this is useful in equalizing the geometry for up and down movement. Important in setting up a model so that it turns inside and outside at a similar rate.


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