HI Peter,

I have used Dupont Chromaclear two part clear for quite a while. (8 or more years)
It has withstood the fuel just fine!  The clears do not appear to attack the dope at all.  An d dope does not appear to attack the clears.  Dope will eat up the Dupont Chromabase basecoat colors, though.

The urethane clears are a mechanical bond versus the chemical bond of dope.  Therefore, you have to make really sure the surface is very clean and free of any oils or contaminantrs.

I have a Geo Juno that I have been using for a contest plane for over 9 years.  It is based on the Saturn!  It was sprayed with Sig colors and coated with Chromaclear.  I have made th enormal repairs and touch ups with the same Sig colors over the clear and have had no problems.

Any of the urethane automotive clears seem to work as well for resisting nitro beter than clear dope.

You will have to go to the Automotive Supply sotres to get these paints.  A respirator is a must, but with no longer than we are exposed to it, I believe nothing else is normally needed.  Of course, there is always the exception to the rule.

I love the stuff!

Bill<><

Croma coat clear dries with a wet look automatically ,but be forewarned. If you intend to do any polishing (rubbing) be sure to do it before long as the cromaclear gets so tough that I havent been able to do anything to it after a few days . Also it can build up a lot of weight real fast . The mixture that they recommend is such a low viscosity that it needs to be layed on real heavy.  Reduce it quite a bit.  Keith Varley

Right, Keith!  These types of paint do not really "evaporate" any as dope/lacquers do.  It's pretty much a case of what ever the paint weighs when you mix it, that's how much it's going to weigh when it's cured.

I find it interesting that the Chromabase (color) paints have a very long shelf life after mixing, but the clear cures/dries in a couple hours.  Never did figure out why that is!

Bill <><

Hi Bill, Keith, Randy,

Thanks a bunch! I guess all I need now is to find a good auto paint store!

Kind Regards

Peter

Be sure you specify to the autopaint guys what you want. You can spend a lot (and I mean a LOT) on the top of the line catalyzed polyurethane auto clears. Omni is pretty cheap and there's not much difference in our application between that and the top of the line pPg clearcoats.

Hi Randy,

Not too long ago I picked up a gallon of NAPA "Econo Coat" (or something like that).  It is a 4-1 catalyzed urethane that is the least expensive I have found.  So far I can tell no difference in our applications.  It was in the $50 a gallon range which is pretty cheap for that stuff. 

Bill <><

Is there any thing that is comparable to this chromaclear stuff in a rattle can? I am not ready to buy the paint guns but sure would like to protect my planes paint jobs from the nitro . I have a habit of using higer %'s of the yellow fever in my fuel blends than is the norm for stunt. 25% is not uncommon in my fuel.

Thanks Bill

I'll try some out - may be a while before I get the clear coat on but if I have any problems I'll shout.

Kind Regards

Peter

Question about clear coats. I bought a plane that was finished with white Brodak dope and automotive clear coat. It's very apparent that the clear coat has a yellowish tinge to it. This typical? Are some better than others?

Hi Dick,

With the urethanes, I have not seen a yellowing with the ones I have used.  I have seen automotive acrylic enamel yellow when applied too thick.

I know I have not used all the ones out there, but Dupont Chroma Clear and NAPA Econo-Body Overall Clearcoat have not yellowed.  YMMV 

Bill <><

I usually pay about $16 for a quart of Omni. $20 for Matrix. It's the harderner that will kill you. I picked up a quart of hardener (slow kind) last Friday: $53.75. Yeow! Of course, then I thought that this is enough hardener to do about 10 or 15 planes. And it has a plastic screw on top so no more having the darned metal cap weld itself to the can. 

HI Randy,

I checked on the hardener here in town.  Seems there are two different hardener formulas depending on where you live.  Here the hardener is a bunch cheaper, but I can order the expensive kind if I desired to.  Thank our tree hugging buddies in California for that hijacking of money for the hardener.  Us ol' rednecks don't seem to care as much! 

Bill <><

Bill,

Usually I only buy the pint sized hardener and only the "normal" speed stuff. It's usually around $18-$20. But this time I wanted the slow stuff (since I was shooting clear in 90+ degree temperatures). They only carried it in quarts. Thus the steep price. Sigh... But it will last a lot of planes, so I suppose I shouldn't cry too much.

Came out pretty well.

Hi Randy,

I would say it came out REAL WELL!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Looks killer. 

I did a recheck on hardeners, and the *kind* we can buy here is about 1/2 price of the *West Coast* hardener (counter guy quote).  Goes both ways!  Y'all have all the flying sites, we can buy stuff cheap! 

Never hurts the costs to be in redneck country!    If it's too much, someone shows up with their dog and 12 gauge....................
 

Bill <><

  Hi gents,
 After working with acrylic paints in the auto repair industry, I made the transition to 2- pack paints (clear over base and solid colour) through convenience.
  It has been a revelation to say the least.

  Initially 2 pack paint systems were very expensive here but now days decent acrylic is as (if not more) expensive as 2 pack and entails a heap more finishing work.

  Most panel shops using 2 pack have been forced to go to the cheapest brands available as the insurance companies have tightened up, expecting people to work for nothing!

  This has resulted in some interesting experiments with differing types of 2 pack systems, mainly using up left overs and mixing different brands.

  I have had very good results with ppg clear but don't use it generally as it is quite expensive, having found that the cheaper brands such as "concept" come up very good "off the gun". 
 
  Most 2 pack systems are not fussy as to what brand/ type of hardener and reducer are used. I have even used general purpose laquer thinner in 2-pack, it goes on ok but reducer gives a bit more shine straight "off the gun".

  For me to buy a litre of concept clear it costs around $85 Aud, but if I buy it in bulk I can get a 7 litre (+/- 2 US gal) "clear kit" for $155 Aud. Top brand name clear is between 50-100% more, depending apon where you get it.
 
  The trick for me at least is to do a repair job that needs at least 2 litres of clear and then I've got free clear coats for model aircraft for ever.

  I haven't tried waterslide decals under 2 pack clear yet, it won't be to far away though. I can't envisage too many problems if one doesn't use a very "aggressive" reducer.

  In regards to using 2 pack clear coats, I suggest people don't be afraid to experiment on less important objects such as field boxes and the like, in most respects 2-pack is very user friendly and quite easy to obtain great results.

  If using 2-pack systems, a good carbon filter is mandatory. Cover up bare skin and minimise your exposure time.

  Regards, Rob.
(P.S, sorry for rambling)

A few posts down from this topic, I reported discovering the Poly-Fiber line - which includes Top Gloss, a water-based urethane.  "Dries to a super gloss, and will buff to show quality."

I'm surprised no one has reported using the Poly-Fiber line, the products are sure easier to find than butyrate dope here in Minnesota.

Of course, your milage may very ...

Dennis