If you are using ball links then you are using threaded inserts for the push rods. The inserts are JB Welded in the push rod. The inserts are not adjustable, you adjust by screwing the ball link on the insert.

And don't forget to wrap the ends of the carbon with something to prevent splitting. I use dental floss with a good drop of epoxy spread around.

Attached you will find the instructions for the Tom Morris Control System I sell. They should work for on your application. Lets see if I can get the attachment to work. It is a pdf. file.

Jim Snelson
www.clcentral.com

If one puts right hand threads in one of the arrowshaft and left hand threads in the opposite end, then by turning the arrowshaft one can move the ends closer or further apart.  This allows adjusting the centers with out disassembling the joint.

New Ball Joints are normally not threaded.  The first time the Ball Joint is screwed on to the threaded part is the making of the threads in the Ball Joint.

Dubro makes a Turnbuckle (#2156; $3.50 for two 4-40) for adjusting the Tie Rods of a RC Car.  The Turnbuckle has right hand threads on one end and left hand threads on the other end.  Cut the Turnbuckle in half and use the ends in the arrowshafts using the appropriate arrowshaft insert.  Epoxy the insert, half turnbuckle, into the arrowshaft.  Then wrap the ends of the arrowshaft.

t michael jennings
 

My current plane will have a ball link at the bellcrank, Dave Brown pushrod, and Dubro soldered clevis at the control horn.  This will avoid the indeterminate situation of having RH threads on both ends.   

The ball link has more range of adjustment than the threaded clevis.  The combination of metal rod and plastic ball link makes a good friction lock.

Also, the threaded metal clevis, together with the threaded metal rod  has a history of failure.  My system avoids this.