Author Topic: applying silkspan with thinner (Read 4552 times)

Leester · « **on:** October 11, 2006, 12:35:55 PM »

I just put silkspan on my scratch built Miss BJ's elevator and stabilizer using Nitrate dope and thinner for the first time. I put on 3 coats of straight nitrate sanding between coats and then 1 more coat and then the silkspan with the thinner. If the wing goes this smoothly I'll use this method all the time.

Mike Spiess · « **Reply #1 on:** October 11, 2006, 01:01:10 PM »

Cool huh

Leester · « **Reply #2 on:** October 11, 2006, 01:25:35 PM »

It's sOOO nice to put on silkspan without a mess.

Bill Little · « **Reply #3 on:** October 11, 2006, 01:52:24 PM »

Hi Lee,

Bill <><

Leester · « **Reply #4 on:** October 11, 2006, 02:39:19 PM »

Hi Bill:

rob biddle · « **Reply #5 on:** October 11, 2006, 05:06:30 PM »

Hi gents, I intend to apply the silkspan to my new T-bird in a couple of weeks in this fashion.

Over here, in the past it was customary to use "clag" childrens craft glue around the edges first (of open bays), apply the dampened silkspan over the top and smooth out any wrinkles with a brush.

This works quite well but I feel that I'm adding unnecesary weight by doing it this way.

Do you apply the silkspan damp and then brush the thinners through it?

Thanks in advance,
Rob.

Leester · « **Reply #6 on:** October 11, 2006, 05:11:50 PM »

Yes on the damp, the thinner will bond with the dope you put on the wood. I rubbed it in with my finger after I brushed it on, worked great.

rob biddle · « **Reply #7 on:** October 11, 2006, 09:30:36 PM »

Cool, thanks Leester, I will give it a go.
If all goes well I should be up to that stage in a couple more nights.

Thanks again, Rob.

Jim Thomerson · « **Reply #8 on:** October 12, 2006, 08:06:37 AM »

On a solid surface, try just sticking the silkspan down around the edges. Let it dry, then watershrink, then apply thinner to the non-stuck-down part. This will give a smoother surface than rubbing it down with thinner all over. Don't do this on any surface which might warp. Been there, done that.

Leester · « **Reply #9 on:** October 30, 2006, 03:38:33 PM »

I've just finished putting the silkspan on the wing. No real problems except the usual small wrinkles on the tips but i'm re-wetting those with water in hope they'll shrink out.
Now do I stay with the Nitrate on the wooded areas ( not ribs) and use butyrate on the open bays only or do I switch to all Butyrate on everything ?? Thanks

Bill Little · « **Reply #10 on:** October 30, 2006, 09:28:58 PM »

Quote from: Leester on October 30, 2006, 03:38:33 PM

I've just finished putting the silkspan on the wing. No real problems except the usual small wrinkles on the tips but i'm re-wetting those with water in hope they'll shrink out.
Now do I stay with the Nitrate on the wooded areas ( not ribs) and use butyrate on the open bays only or do I switch to all Butyrate on everything ?? Thanks

Hi Lee,

Use nitrate to stick down ALL the paper. I also fill the paper with nitrate on the solid surfaces. I put three coats of Sig Supercoat Clear on the open bays only (it shrinks best) and do it a quickly as possible from the bottom of one wing then the top. This will help keep out warps. I do not even put the Supercoat over the wing sheeting. I only use *shrinking* or *tautening* dope on open areas to get the paper tight. A quart of Supercoat clear will last me a whole lot loner than a quartr of Nitrate. After the three coats of Supercoat, it goes back into the cabinet and Lite Coat (non-tautening) is used from then on. Remember, you do not want to put nitrate of butyrate, it does ugly things to it!

On Polyspan, it's nitrate all the way. And, I thin all dope 50%, and more, usually.

Bill <><

Leester · « **Reply #11 on:** October 31, 2006, 04:52:51 PM »

Thanks Bill: Do you put all of your Nitrate down first then the Butyrate to keep from the mess or are you just extra careful ??

Bill Little · « **Reply #12 on:** November 01, 2006, 07:34:02 AM »

Quote from: Leester on October 31, 2006, 04:52:51 PM

Thanks Bill: Do you put all of your Nitrate down first then the Butyrate to keep from the mess or are you just extra careful ??

Hi Lee,

I don't put on the Butyrate (Supercoat clear) until I am through with all the nitrate on the wings. And, I only put it in the open bays themselves. I don't want anything else shrinking up.

I can still put nitrate on the sheeted areas after I use the shrinking dope. I have done a couple of Classic planes lately witrh NO FILLER. Just used Nitrate (non tautening) as the filler on the wood areas.. Very light finish!

Bill <><

Jim Treace · « **Reply #13 on:** November 01, 2006, 09:23:34 AM »

Will this same process work with silk? I have a ways to go with my Blue Sky's J.D. Falcon, but am considering using silk. Kind of like the way it looks on my Thunderbird, which I used all Brodak butyrate dope.
Jim

Mike Spiess · « **Reply #14 on:** November 01, 2006, 10:35:07 AM »

I only use nitrate till clear on silk. But I only put clear on colored silk never colored dope I gets it too heavy for me. Heavy handed when it comes to brushing. My wife says that about painting at home too.

Bill Little · « **Reply #15 on:** November 01, 2006, 11:47:59 AM »

Quote from: jtreace on November 01, 2006, 09:23:34 AM

Will this same process work with silk? I have a ways to go with my Blue Sky's J.D. Falcon, but am considering using silk. Kind of like the way it looks on my Thunderbird, which I used all Brodak butyrate dope.
Jim

I put silk and silkspan the same way ever since I started over 40 years ago. I also hold silk upside down to put on the first clear coats after it's in place and dry. This keeps it from puddleing as much underneath the covering.

Jap tissue has to go on dry, but I wet everything else.

Bill <><

Jim Treace · « **Reply #16 on:** November 01, 2006, 12:34:57 PM »

I used silk 45 yrs ago as a teenager. Just now returning to c/l. Didn't know much back then, just "slop" it on and fly. But now quality and function go together. Thanks for the input. Hummmm...good suggestion on holding the wing upside down to prevent pooling. I have always hated those dope droppings. "Too soon we grow old, too late we grow wise!"
Jim

Jim Thomerson · « **Reply #17 on:** November 01, 2006, 01:17:23 PM »

On silk I thin the first couple coats of dope down about 75% thinner: brush on, turning the wing over from time to time. Will get some run through but with dope that thin, no problem. After the first couple of coats, add dope to the jar and thicken it up. Once there are no pinholes, go as thick as you like.

Tom Niebuhr · « **Reply #18 on:** November 01, 2006, 06:36:36 PM »

Any pictures of your JD Falcon yet?

Jim Treace · « **Reply #19 on:** November 02, 2006, 06:19:41 AM »

Tom:
Not yet ready for the camera. Wing parts/plans laid out, early stage. Got my Ro-Jett .40RE. Wonderful engine. I am a slow builder. Your kit, however is absolutely first class, all the way!! Let me know when the fuse jig is ready.
By the way, I left a message for you on the other thread (stuff for sale), about the Bellanca Viking. Put me in for either a short or long kit. Back in the '70's, I use to own and fly the full size Viking!
Jim

Leester · « **Reply #20 on:** November 06, 2006, 02:25:14 PM »

I've got the whole plane silkspaned and am putting nitrate on the sheeted areas and fusalage,stab,elev etc. How many coats of thinned nitrate ( mine is 60/40 thinner ) should I go with before I do any sanding ?? And is 400 grit the paper of choice. Thanks

Bill Little · « **Reply #21 on:** November 06, 2006, 05:18:36 PM »

Quote from: Leester on November 06, 2006, 02:25:14 PM

I've got the whole plane silkspaned and am putting nitrate on the sheeted areas and fusalage,stab,elev etc. How many coats of thinned nitrate ( mine is 60/40 thinner ) should I go with before I do any sanding ?? And is 400 grit the paper of choice. Thanks

Hi Lee,

I put on two 50/50 coats before I do the first sanding with 320 then sand after each subsequent coat with 400 then 600. I usually apply 4 -5 coats. If I'm going to use automotive spray can primer, I only use three coats of dope. On the paper I usually put on two coats of Super Coat to shrink (50/50 or so) then enough coats, 3-4, of Lite Coat (low shrink) to get a sheen to the surface. This gets carefully sanded with 600.

Bill <><

Leester · « **Reply #22 on:** November 15, 2006, 10:45:47 AM »

Thanks again for all the help. Here it is all silkspaned now just dope and sand till fillets and primer.

Bill Little · « **Reply #23 on:** November 16, 2006, 10:24:00 PM »

Hi Lee,

That sure looks slicker than baby snot!