i have just used some basic 1/8 thick aliminum and a file to cut it.

Great idea Rob, was it expensive to have them do ??

Those look perfect Greg.

I appreciate the high-tech, high-precision approach, but I seldom build anything with all ribs identical... Or use the identical airfoil again.

For a tapered planform wing, with straight-line leading and trailing edges, a root rib and a tip rib template should be enough. Stack the rib stock between them, bolt the stack together to prevent slipping, and cut+sand the stack to just a bit larger than the templates.

The taper angle is steeper than when the ribs are spread out into positon in the structure. The slight oversize allows using a long, flat sanding bar to correct the edge taper and bring them to size.

Many things can be used for templates. I did saw and file a root and tip pair out of 1/16" aluminum, once. Other materials are easier to "form." Some need an assist to stay flat...

0.020" "flashing" aluminum, used by roofers to help seal chimneys, flues, ventilation pipes going through a house roof works. A decent aircaft tinsnip can get you to the width of the inkline, and fairly little draw filing is needed to complete the shape and break the edge burrs. This needs something like a 1/4" sq balsa strip CyA'd chordwise on the "upper" side to keep it flat.

Formica counter top material is just about as easy to cut and finish to form, and also benefits from a spine strip as with the aluminum, above.

Both the aluminum and the formica withstand heat well enough to use as a hot-wire foam cutting template, too. For stiffness, it may be an idea to CyA on a balsa sheet to full form. Easy enough to trim to the harder material... Edges can be finished smooth enough to NOT snag the hot-wire.

Came across some approx. 0.01" finished epoxy-glas sheet stock. The glas in the matrix would probably snag a hot-wire, if the epoxy could handle the temperature, but it makes an excellent cutting guide edge for slicing I-Beamer ribs. I build the cutting edge guide into a frame the length of the longest rib+a bit, cut the rib balsa sheets to that length and edge-join several sections to get the grain aimed correctly. Sliding the sections up to a 'stop' (for the required rib depth) helps to produce identical sliced ribs.

Innovation is also a fun part of our hobby, in whatever way we find need to innovate...

I've been making templates from scrap galvanized steel as used in household HVAC ducts.  If you're lucky you can pick it up free from a furnace or AC job.  I got my last supply from a local fab shop.  They need to dispose of the abundance of scrap they generate.

For money you can buy the stuff at Tony's or Lowe's (depending on who's your NASCAR hero).

No lazer cutting, no machine shop.  Just tinsnips, a vice, and files.

Equally good for X-Acto, stack-sanding, and/or hot wire.