In my limited experience, the only thing I noticed, is be sure to keep the adjustment screw TIGHT.    Other wise no difference.   

I'm probably pushing things with this installation. I installed it on the second rib because the last rib was undefined as I had yet to decide how the tip would be shaped. As long as the plane doesn't do much hinging it will likely be ok. I may have to open up the slot more, though....

(Ok, I'm having trouble getting it turned right side up....)

I'm probably pushing things with this installation. I installed it on the second rib because the last rib was undefined as I had yet to decide how the tip would be shaped. As long as the plane doesn't do much hinging it will likely be ok. I may have to open up the slot more, though....

(Ok, I'm having trouble getting it turned right side up....)

Hinging won't be much different no matter where it ends up.  It is still going to rub on the exit slot.  I think I would move it out as far as it can go.  Anchored at the front and back is enough if you reinforce the joints.  I did one back that far once and although it worked, changing the setting accurately that far into the wing is not fun.  Like the markings.  I've been doing it that way for years.  If it is not too late, glue a piece of white paper on the outside of the guide and put the marks on it.  You can see it better inside the wing!

Ken

PS - You can't see it in the photo but the grommets are flared and smoothed on *both* sides.  Most come with a lip turned inward.  You have to use a tapered punch or grommet punch to reverse the flare or your lines will be subhject to unnecessary rubbing at the edges.  I put the mfg side out where the most bending of the lines will occurr and add a small flat washer to the back and a punch to flare the backside.  Cover that with Epoxy.  Never had another frayed leadout wire.

This is an alternative that was first proposed by Tom Morris, if I remember correctly.

Thanks for the info Ken. I will shorten the eyelets. I did take the time to draw a line from the bellcrank arm leadout hole to the brass eyelet with a long straight edge for each location and angle, but that was only with the bellcrank in neutral, and i get what you are saying. A couple more 'gates' and it will be done. The lower leadout holes are the stock location, and the 2 above them are the extra ones i added. I figured with a heavier engine, i would need to move the leadouts forward.

You may regret using solid lead outs.  Once one gets bent or both it is hard to get them straight again.