Greetings ladies and gentlemen. 

I am in the process of building some adjustable lead outs for my scratch build UHP G nobler. I would like to build a ribbed wing tip and sheet it rather than a big balsa block shaped and hollowed out. 
Firstly, is the series of approx 6 holes with thimble adjusters ok?
I'm sure given the reputation of the Moon brothers that it would be but do they use this design?
This would allow for individual lead out adjustments but it doesn't allow for "precise" line adjustments. Am I being to pedantic? 

Now, I have been searching the net for designs for the "slide" adjusters and I have a good idea of what to construct, although if you want to post pics of some of your own designs I wont complain .
What I have found is that a lot of folks tend to have the lead outs in one slide block so that the adjustment effects both lead out wires.
What happened to individual adjusters? When I built my TF G nobler back in 89 it had the individual nylon adjustable sliders. So I was going to replicate this design with ply instead. 
I suppose I am after some advise here on which way to go. My usual advise man has just had a knee reconstruction and I don't want to annoy him (get well soon Noel  ).
I am leaning towards individual lead out adjusters but the consensus seems to be one sliding block housing both lead outs.
OR
tell me to stop wasting time and use the design on the plan because that's the best design.

I use the slider, which is easily constructed and not all that heavy.  I don't feel like I could do the individual holes neat enough to work.  I have always used both leadouts on one slider, spaced as close as I can get them.  On 1/2A stunt airplane I use a one hole slider, as even a 1/2 inch separation on that size airplane will cause noticeable yaw when control is given one way or the other.  I have found that moving the slider 1/8 inch makes a difference in how 40 size airplanes fly. 

Well I'll go with the slider and have both holes in the one block.
Thanks very much for the advise. Muchly appreciated.

Hey Jim, just as a matter of interest how far apart do you think I should space the holes?

Regards
Damian.

 I am with Jim, I use 3/4" seperation on all my models and so far this works well.
  Keep us posted on your success...

I've been flying 1/2A through 09 airplanes with a hand made 4 inch wooden bellcrank.  Yes it is a trick to get one in a 6 in chord wing.  I haven't noticed any sawing problems.  On my regular sliders I use the yellow inner tube, a short piece, from a Golden Rod.  I haven't seen any wear on either the yellow tube or the leadouts.

Wow Bob your work is superb.
It makes sense when you see the pictures. This is the design that is on the plan.
So many options and I now like the idea of a solid tip.
Thanks very much for posting up the pics.

One thing I was worried about when making the slide setup where the lines come out of the same block was that I have to adjust both lines at once and to have a 1/2inch space on a 4inch bellcrank meant that the lines would be "sawing" the lead out guide somewhat. Keeping them separate means fine tuning individual lines and not as much "sawing" at the lead out guides as I could space them further apart. 


I guess it's down to trial and error.
It's been a while between flights for me but I am slowley learning the building side of things again.

Thanks Bob, that is a very clear explaination of why I do not try to build that kind of lead out.   I'm kind of slowed down at the moment.  When I get more up to speed, I will try to post photos of how I do it.  It may take as many as three photos.

Jim,

Not sure how you do yours, but I reinvented the wheel.

The Dragonfly. Named it this as a joke, but the design concept is no joke.

Bob's, and we all have seen similar ones before, has 12 areas of adjustment, mine has an "unlimited" range of adjustment.  

I once had a modeler, he will remain nameless, who told me the thickness of a dollar bill cured the running of his engine.

So, why settle for only 12 adjustment areas? Even a slider has limited adjustment of such.

Sure, my Dragonfly is rough, all prototypes generally are, but improvments can be made.

Improvments like, separate screws for each line. 6/32 thread instead of 1/4 20. Only aluminum bolt I had. Smaller line holding device and lighter brass tubing. Lighten.

What you see weighs only .6 of an ounce.

It's a  beginning.

 Has possibilities but will most likely be simply brushed off.

Bob,
How do keep the delrin inserts from pulling out in-flight?
Rick

cool lead outs! here's mine. both holes on one block. not as cool as Bob's! i just order the set from RSM.

There's no reason you couldn't take the basic idea and lighten it, by using a main adjusting screw out of 2-56 aluminum, or nylon, or something.

I don't know if it's all that much better than regular sliders, or plug-ins, though.

Tim,

Thanks for the reply and thanks for uplifting my efforts.

You're correct. I only had 1/4 20, and those dumb Dave Brown pushrods parts are all overkill and heavy stuff.

I may attempt to dial down the screw size and find other tube materials, like straws possibly, for the other parts on an upcoming model.

Also, I belive the idea of having both lines adjustible is a good one.

With this setup using two aluminum screws, one for each line, it could easily be possible. Could place both screws at the same level and run the lines either over or under the screw.

Or, place one screw above the other and run one line above the bottom screw and the other below the top screw. I'll provide a drawing for anyone interested.

Obviously, a screwdriver used in rotating the screw is the adjustment method. The adjustment is fine and unlimited. Eight of a turn if needed or whatever?

I actually have this setup on The ARGO and the Mig-3. Just about .6 oz. See above photos.

Thanks again for the reply.

Charles

I designed this screw type leadout, the dragonfly,   only for the unlimited adjustments that it offers, not because of the wingtip shape.

About sliders.

They don’t have to be straight.

They can take on a radius that resembles the shape of the wing tip or just a simple arch.

As long as both pieces have the same arch or close, the fixed wood that the adjuster follows AND the adjuster will “seat” and will also work fine.

Note. The adjuster could be straight, but that would require having a vertical pin at each end of the adjuster. The adjuster would have to ride in an upper and lower track or groove. Not complicated and this can be accomplished, but more difficult to make and describe. Seen blue in the “simple” drawing.

The issue is the exit or line tubes. They won’t be pointing towards the bell crank if moved in either direction because of the arch. See single arrow pointing to pivot where the leadout tube is attached.

This issue can easily be solved by how the exit tubes are constructed. They will have to have a shorter vertical piece of tubing soldered to the primary horizontal pieces, allowing for them to free pivot. Simple actually.

Now, when assembled, doesn’t matter where the slider is placed, the exit tubes will pivot with line tension.

Quick drawing, but you can get the idea. Well, almost.