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Author Topic: 1/2x1/2 or 1/2x3/8 motor mount material  (Read 1039 times)

Offline Gary Anderson

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1/2x1/2 or 1/2x3/8 motor mount material
« on: December 11, 2009, 01:48:15 PM »
Hi guys,

I'm starting my new toy and the prints call for 1/2x1/2 motor mounts. I got to thinking about using the 1/2x1/2 and came up with, what is there to gain bye using the 1/2x1/2 over the 1/2x3/8 motor mounts? Sitting here looking at the engine, I plan on using, the engine lugs holes are at a certain distance and no matter what I use that will not change. I always make a metal bracket for the engine to rest on. Alway cross grain the motor mount area, drill and pin the cross braces in the motor mount area. I see no advantage over using the larger motor mounts? I drill away the extra material in the mounts (drill holes). The only thing I can see the reason for the larger mounts is to make the nose a 1/4" wider? I'm going to do as the plan says, just can't figure out the reason, Gary

P.S. The nose length is 9" from front of wing to end of nose!!! (normal)
« Last Edit: December 12, 2009, 12:30:09 AM by Gary Anderson »
Gary Anderson

Offline Ralph Wenzel (d)

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Re: 1/2x1/2 or 1/2x3/8 motor mount material
« Reply #1 on: December 11, 2009, 07:41:03 PM »
I wouldn't consider 1/2-sq. until I got over .60 size. Maybe with .50-size 4-strokes, too. That's unless you need/want the extra fuselage width . . .

(Too many irons; not enough fire)

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Offline Tim Wescott

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Re: 1/2x1/2 or 1/2x3/8 motor mount material
« Reply #2 on: December 12, 2009, 12:39:09 PM »
I haven't built many stunters, and I can't figure out what you're going to end up without a drawing.  So take these thoughts with the appropriate sized grain of salt:

  • If 1/2 x 3/8 mounts have worked well for you in the past, if you think they're strong enough, use 'em.  If you want to get back to the original dimensions, glue 1/8 balsa (you decide how hard) to the outsides of 'em to bulk them up
  • Lightening holes
  • It sounds like your technique could, if done right, strengthen the motor mount area -- if this is the case, that's another argument for using smaller mounts
  • It's your plane
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The problem with electric is that once you get the smoke generator and sound system installed, the plane is too heavy.

Offline Gary Anderson

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Re: 1/2x1/2 or 1/2x3/8 motor mount material
« Reply #3 on: December 12, 2009, 08:49:09 PM »
What plane, what size, what engine???  These usually factor into the size and or type of motor mounts.  Also fuel tank width/length.  With a 9 inch nose length, it can't be a very large plane and unless you have a .60 or bigger, the "usual" 1/2 X 3x8 mounts should to the job without any cutting away for the  bottom of the crankcase. y1 D>K
Hi Ty,
This is picture of the nose of my new toy. Probably won't work but I'm going to use the score wing on one and build the proper wing for the other. The orginial plane has a foam wing but the print gives the root and tip rib, So!!! my son punched these figures into his wing program and now I have a copy of ribs I will make for the real thing baby!!! Not sure which engine I'll use, Merco, ST, Saito, DS, K&B, they all seem to make good power. If the plane turns out to be heavy, probably use the Saito 62. I've always loved my mentors plane and maybe I'll have one to play with, Gary
Gary Anderson

Offline Leester

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Re: 1/2x1/2 or 1/2x3/8 motor mount material
« Reply #4 on: December 13, 2009, 07:05:37 AM »
I always figured what the plans show is shown for a reason. I've heard the ST 60's vibrate alot so that's why the 1/2 X 1/2 motor mounts.
Leester
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Offline Steve Helmick

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Re: 1/2x1/2 or 1/2x3/8 motor mount material
« Reply #5 on: December 13, 2009, 04:26:09 PM »
I believe that's Gid Adkinson's design. I saw Walter's copy at NW Regionals some years ago. Seems to me that part of the equation is CG related. My vote is to use the 1/2" sq. or plan to add lead to the nose...this is a big airplane with a pretty short nose, so do everything you can to keep the tail end light!  H^^ Steve
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Offline Gary Anderson

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Re: 1/2x1/2 or 1/2x3/8 motor mount material
« Reply #6 on: December 13, 2009, 04:50:37 PM »
I believe that's Gid Adkinson's design. I saw Walter's copy at NW Regionals some years ago. Seems to me that part of the equation is CG related. My vote is to use the 1/2" sq. or plan to add lead to the nose...this is a big airplane with a pretty short nose, so do everything you can to keep the tail end light!  H^^ Steve
Hi Steve,

You're correct, Gid and I used to play quite a bit in the yester years. We lived about three blocks apart and when I was in the park, which was 1/2 block away. Gid would hear my old engine a crying and would come and show me how to fly them. I see him once in a while but I really miss playing with him. Gid is really a great guy and a great friend. After he placed at the nats he was sitting in my garage and told me the sad story on how his dad and wife treated him about his toys. His dad told him to quit fooling around with the toys and get to the real stuff. Broke my heart cause Gid is a very hard worker at what he does for a living and he's away supported his family, no slacker there I'll tell ya. He told me he still has his plane hanging in the garage but its starting to go to pieces. We lost a lot when Gid left the sport, toys, what ever ya want to call it. I away think of him when I'm playing, I still have the video my son made of Gid flying at the Golden State Contest and when I'm blue I'll put the tape on turn it up and hear his great T&L ST 60 crying, Gary
Gary Anderson


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