Author Topic: WWI fighter planes 1/2a (Read 3401 times)

DanielGelinas · « **on:** January 09, 2013, 06:44:29 PM »

Hi guys,

Do any of you remember a great article and plans to build (3) WW1 dogfighters, in MAN '73 or '74? I had actually ordered the full size plans at the time but they were lost when I started flirting with girls.

I believe there was the Sopwith Camel, Fokker triplane and another one which I don't recall. These planes seemed like they had fun written all over them, and could stunt and dogfight. I would like to try and find the article and maybe the plans again to actually build these three 1/2a planes.

Thanks for any help!

-Dan

pat king · « **Reply #1 on:** January 10, 2013, 06:51:59 AM »

I have laser cut sheet wing kits for the Dr1 and Sopwith Camel. They are for radial mount 1/2A engines.
Pat

john vlna · « **Reply #2 on:** January 10, 2013, 07:21:59 AM »

Biped and triples, monsters and monoplanes. Both plans available for free on hip pocket aeronautics
I'll paste the links when I get to my computer, can't figure it out on this silly ipad

john vlna · « **Reply #3 on:** January 10, 2013, 07:42:57 AM »

Bipes and Tripes http://www.hippocketaeronautics.com/hpa_plans/details.php?image_id=312&mode=search

Monsters and Monoplanes http://www.hippocketaeronautics.com/hpa_plans/details.php?image_id=1127&mode=search

You have to register to download, but it is free.

Both planes are still available from the AMA plans Store, cheaper than downloading and printing at staples.

I loved these articles, built several of the planes and currently have a twin bomber from the Monsters article. I'll post a pic when I find one.

john vlna · « **Reply #4 on:** January 10, 2013, 09:16:07 AM »

Couldn't find a completed picture, but here are couple construction shots. I originally built it for two reed valves, but near the end I switched to electric. The camo is tissue printed on my computer.

DanielGelinas · « **Reply #5 on:** January 10, 2013, 12:48:01 PM »

Thanks John!

That's a nice looking plane you have there!
I'm assuming it ran on two cox .049 engines?

-Dan

john vlna · « **Reply #6 on:** January 10, 2013, 03:10:57 PM »

Dan,
it flies OK on on two .049 reed valves.All the models I've built from these two planes are fine with .049's. I just like electric power better, switched over about 4 years ago and hardly touch a glow motor anymore.
John

Larry Renger · « **Reply #7 on:** January 17, 2013, 11:57:07 AM »

How did you bend the landing gear tight around the wheels?

john vlna · « **Reply #8 on:** January 19, 2013, 04:33:41 PM »

Larry,
I used two needle nose channel lock pliers. It is difficult, and I didn't get it right the first time, but it can be done. There might be a better way but this works.
John

don Burke · « **Reply #9 on:** January 19, 2013, 09:11:22 PM »

Quote from: Larry Renger on January 17, 2013, 11:57:07 AM

How did you bend the landing gear tight around the wheels?

How about bending a rectangle from one piece of wire. The end split would be at the cl of the axle. drill the wheels out for a piece of copper tubing for the real axle. Carefully solder the wire to the tubing after installing the wheels. Have to be quick about the soldering so the wheels don't melt, unless using metal hub wheels.

john vlna · « **Reply #10 on:** January 19, 2013, 09:31:02 PM »

Don,
Sounds like it would work. You are right on the soldering, the wheels I used were plastic. I am sure they couldn't take much heat.
john

Glenn (Gravitywell) Reach · « **Reply #11 on:** January 19, 2013, 10:26:31 PM »

What about doing the same thing, but use JB weld instead?

don Burke · « **Reply #12 on:** January 20, 2013, 05:33:04 AM »

Quote from: Glenn (Gravitywell) Reach on January 19, 2013, 10:26:31 PM

What about doing the same thing, but use JB weld instead?

Hadn't thought about epoxy. But I was thinking that if the tube was soldered to the outboard leg along with a small washer before installing wheels, then the inboard leg could be snapped in place after the wheels. Use J-B or solder to secure the inboard leg to the tube.
(corrected spelling, darn keyboard doesn't do what I thought it did1)

john vlna · « **Reply #13 on:** January 20, 2013, 06:08:56 AM »

I think JB weld would work, I am not completely happy with the current gear anyway. Since they are removable I think I'll put it on the todo list. Thanks for the ideas.
John

Larry Renger · « **Reply #14 on:** January 20, 2013, 08:24:18 AM »

Indeed, excellent ideas. With the whole tube length for a bond, it should be bulletproof.

don Burke · « **Reply #15 on:** January 20, 2013, 12:03:09 PM »

Quote from: Larry Renger on January 20, 2013, 08:24:18 AM

Indeed, excellent ideas. With the whole tube length for a bond, it should be bulletproof.

Another thought, make two [] shaped pieces of wire, top ones mount in a slot behind the engine so they don't need any joiner. Make the tube joiner for the axle as noted.