Author Topic: wasp 1/2 A.............. (Read 3874 times)

larry jaconetta · « **on:** April 26, 2007, 09:08:08 AM »

Hi people!!!!
I have heard so much about the wasp 1/2A, and i was wondering if they are still available, where would i get one.
do they come in 061 also? please help a poor, old, tired, broken down funky musician!!!!!!!!!

larry jaconetta

Larry Renger · « **Reply #1 on:** April 26, 2007, 10:21:14 AM »

Actually, it depends on which Wasp you are talking about. The old Holland Wasp .049 was pretty anemic by modern standards and hasn't been made for the better part of 50 years.

However, the AP Wasp is an .061 and is readily available from Hobby People (formerly Hobby Shack). Costs around $40. I expect you can order them on line if there isn't a store near you. I am extremely pleased with the two I have, and mine run right with the Norvel Big Mig.

Bill Gruby · « **Reply #2 on:** April 26, 2007, 11:15:38 AM »

Larry J.

Use this link to Hobby People: http://hobbypeople.net

"Billy G"

Robert McHam · « **Reply #3 on:** April 26, 2007, 11:34:14 AM »

let's not forget these:
http://www.jkaerotech.com/gaseng.htm#ENGINES

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0095P?FVSEARCH=wasp&FVPROFIL=++

http://www.globalhobby.com/public/mfr/ap01.asp
the number for the whole motor at global is:
http://www.globalhobby.com/public/gallery/211280.asp

Does anyone know about the Tiger Wasp .061 (not AP)?
http://www.hobbyclub.com/CipollaEngines.htm

Robert

Larry Renger · « **Reply #4 on:** April 26, 2007, 01:14:04 PM »

I had a Tiger Wasp once. What a dog! Extremely heavy and slow, sort of the P-39 of the engine world.

Robert McHam · « **Reply #5 on:** April 26, 2007, 09:50:18 PM »

Larry, I can understand that but not all .061s can be equivelent to a Cox Tee Dee .049.
However when you say the Tiger Wasp was a dog, you are comparing to what? A Babe Bee? An OK Cub?
What may be important is while it may not be the brightest color in the crayon box, If it started easily and had decent runs, it could still have a place in the half A world.
Heavy could also mean very durable.

From what I understand the Tiger Wasp is at least in production presently. If someone wanted to buy one new with a warranty, New in box, They could do so and assume there would be a company to back it. Not so for some these days.

I know, most anyone buying a Norvel or Cox engine knows they would not have this advantage and yet they don't mind a bit as these have been well proven through time.

I just found the Tiger Wasp so I have no real knowledge of it But I was just trying to bring it to light for others in case they didn't know. It doesn't look overly heavy just from the picture...But what can I say. It looks pretty cool.

Robert

Larry Renger · « **Reply #6 on:** April 26, 2007, 10:04:07 PM »

It was hard to start, ran slow and weighed a ton. I have NOTHING good to say about it! Sorry to be so vague.

George · « **Reply #7 on:** April 27, 2007, 01:08:48 PM »

Back to the AP Wasp. Since it appears to be a near copy of the pre-Revlite NORVEL, has anyone tried using replacement parts for an AP in a NORVEL?

George

Larry Renger · « **Reply #8 on:** May 19, 2007, 03:05:51 PM »

I got my hands on yet another ap Wasp, and this time took it apart. The parts will interchange with the .061 Big Mig. However, there is one HUGE difference! The Wasp has a bronze crankshaft bushing. I have NEVER seen this on so small and engine. It should last forever!

Anyway, while it was apart, I cleaned up the airflow paths wherever possible and filled the front of the crankshaft with JB weld to minimize crankcase volume and improve the flow toward the rear. Then I beveled the outside bottom of all the bypass ports to break the sharp edge. Finally, I polished the crankshaft and crankpin with 1200 grit paper and oil.

After 25 minutes of running this morning, it turns a Tornado 5x3 prop at 23,200 rpm.

Fuel is Excalibur 15%-11%-11% and it was a mildly warm (75ish) dry day. Stock head and shims.

Bill Little · « **Reply #9 on:** May 19, 2007, 04:29:38 PM »

Quote from: Larry Renger on May 19, 2007, 03:05:51 PM

I got my hands on yet another ap Wasp, and this time took it apart. The parts will interchange with the .061 Big Mig. However, there is one HUGE difference! The Wasp has a bronze crankshaft bushing. I have NEVER seen this on so small and engine. It should last forever!

Anyway, while it was apart, I cleaned up the airflow paths wherever possible and filled the front of the crankshaft with JB weld to minimize crankcase volume and improve the flow toward the rear. Then I beveled the outside bottom of all the bypass ports to break the sharp edge. Finally, I polished the crankshaft and crankpin with 1200 grit paper and oil.

[size=36pt]After 25 minutes of running this morning, it turns a Tornado 5x3 prop at 23,200 rpm. [/size]

Fuel is Excalibur 15%-11%-11% and it was a mildly warm (75ish) dry day. Stock head and shims.

Hi Larry,

How does that number compare to a *good* TD .049/.051, or a Big Mig .061?

Thanks!

Larry Renger · « **Reply #10 on:** May 20, 2007, 08:35:53 AM »

It is a bit better than my Bib Mig .061s. I can't say I ever ran that prop on a Tee Dee, but I suspect it is more powerful than the Tee Dee. I'll try a C*x 6x3 today to evaluate that better.

The nice thing is that we are talking NIB, immediately available engine with readily available replacement glowheads for under $40. To get a Brodak to run this way, you are talking about $75. And Norvels are now made out of Unavailabilium.

George · « **Reply #11 on:** May 20, 2007, 08:49:50 AM »

Larry,

Since you have had the AP apart, is the porting similar to the BigMig or AME? Perhaps something entirely different?

Looks like you have a winner.

I remember your procedure for polishing a crankshaft on a drill press, but how do you polish the crankpin?

George

Larry Renger · « **Reply #12 on:** May 21, 2007, 10:25:40 AM »

The crank port is a bit different, but the bypasses are identical to the Big Mig. The AME has different bypasses.

I ran the engine with a C*x black 6x3 (new version) and it turned a very dissapointing 14,800. I guess the design is intended to scream with small props. A Black Widow would outrun it with the bigger prop. It was pretty unsteady with the large prop, so either it needs more break-in, or it just isn't "happy" with heavier loads. Oddly, the instructions claim it can run a 7x3 prop. I bet it doesn't do that very well!

I certainly never began to get consistent runs with the Big Mig until I let it rev. I used to try to get the .061 to turn a 6x4 (seemed reasonable for that size engine) and the runs were totally inconsistant. Never could get reliable needle settings through a full flight. Once I switched to smaller props, ending up with the APC 5.7x3 or 6x2, depending on the need, I get totally reliable performance. I expect the same thing with the Wasp and the first one runs beautifully with the 6x2 in the air.

ray copeland · « **Reply #13 on:** June 04, 2007, 04:42:16 AM »

Hey Guys , Ray Copeland here, an oldie but newbie to 1/2a, we fly most everyday in backyard on 30 foot lines , the ap 061 discussed on these posts are of interest as i am growing weary of patching widows for inconsistent flying. My questions of the day are : are the ap's only available with throttle and if so is it easy to wire wide open?, and are those tornado 5x3 nylon props available? We go thru a lot of breakable props. Also do they have starter springs , my toothbrush chicken stick is wearing thin! Thanks, Ray

George · « **Reply #14 on:** June 04, 2007, 07:50:51 AM »

Ray,

Larry has a great little stunter for a good .049-.061 in this month's Flying Models if you are into building from plans. For kits, Brodak has some good ones, although most are a bit small for the AP wasp, BigMig, TD, etc.

Also, expect to fly on ~50' lines with these powerful small engines. The 30' lines will screw you into the ground.

Tell us more about what you are flying now.

George

ray copeland · « **Reply #15 on:** June 04, 2007, 08:47:51 AM »

George, thanks for the reply and as to what are we flying now? Latest is a barndoor from Ray Stone with a big mig 061 ( this is a great model and thanks to Ray for helping me learn to fuel balloons!), plastic fantastic w/ ame 049 (fuel from muffler pressure with the larger norvel clunk tank and homemade mount), osborne platter w/ black widow, deweybird w/black widow, and a collection of balsa, corfoam, and coreplastic "flying wings" that i play around designing with tee dees, medallions, babe bees and golden bees. Yesterday we flew an 18 inch plastic core wing with a kb greenhead 09 and my little 14 year old flyin buddy had his hands full! My biggest problem with the plastic and foam core airplanes is always fuel foaming from vibration, seems the high power engines (ame) and anything larger than an 061 won't run good on balloon or regular tanks and bladders might be a little much for us right now. Also guessing at the balance point, most of the time they are a little tailheavy so i make brass prop nuts to counter. Our goal is to practice with these practically indestructable plastic wings to be able to fly inverted by July 4th so we can fly the "good models" to show off at a family get together. This is a great website and thanks for any thoughts. Ray

Larry Renger · « **Reply #16 on:** June 04, 2007, 08:52:06 AM »

The best 1/2A kits currently available are the Hunter Stunter and Pinto from RSM and the Baby Pathfinder from Brodak. After that there is the Baby Flite Streak from Brodak, and I would also give a serious look at the Little Axe from Minnesotamodeler. The ARF Baby Clown is good for giggles, but smaller than the others mentioned above, with only a 135 sq.in. wing.

Of course you can also take any set of plans to a .35 size plane and shrink them to about 60% (aim for a 32" to 36" wingspan). Whenever this results in an "odd" wood size, go to the next SMALLER size of sheet or spar. Planes get relatively stronger and must be relatively lighter as you shrink them. An example is the Baby Magician published some years ago in Flying Models. They still have the plans available.

George · « **Reply #17 on:** June 04, 2007, 08:59:05 AM »

Ray,

Sounds like a bunch of fun planes. Last time I used my K&B Greenhead was in a scaled-down sheet wing version of the Manx Cat. Man that thing would turn!

George

JimnAZ · « **Reply #18 on:** June 08, 2007, 09:53:41 PM »

I have just acquired a Norvel Big Mig 061 and an AP 061/ Where can one get the Galbreath Nelson(?) head?

Jim

Wayne Collier · « **Reply #19 on:** June 09, 2007, 01:57:42 AM »

Larry Driskill sells the Galbraith head and the nelson plug. I've ordered from him in the past and was well pleased with the service.

http://www.kittingittogether.com/

JimnAZ · « **Reply #20 on:** June 12, 2007, 08:20:32 AM »

Thank you Ed. Checked out the URL.

My My, 1/2A flying has changed from "back in the day".

Jim

ray copeland · « **Reply #21 on:** July 12, 2007, 07:10:00 PM »

Guys, i must be doin' something wrong, after 12 tanks of fuel and trying with and w/o muffler pressure my ap wasp .061 is turning only 15,800 with the same 5x3 nylon prop as my "new " old norvel that i just fired up and ran 21,400. I have removed the needle valve assembly and am going to try installing a nva from kustom kraft w/o the throttle. Will give a report on how this works out. If porting and polishing is the answer to these low rpm's, someone please yell at me before i hack up the original carb set up. Thanks, Ray

Larry Renger · « **Reply #22 on:** July 13, 2007, 07:59:53 AM »

Regarding the low rpm, there is a variety of things to check.

* First, is the engine completely stock, and the carb solidly wired open? Is the fuel nipple intruding into the venturi? The carb can be disassembled on the needle side and the barrel screwed out a half turn at a time to get the full venturi open.

* What fuel and prop brand are you using?

* Are you using the stock head? Is it on tight? Really tight?? Is there a head gasket, and only one. It is possible to have none or two if someone goofs up on the assembly line.

* If all of the above are as they should be, remove the glowhead and backplate and check the engine for binding. It should be tight at the top, but not "too tight". It should be completely free with the piston near the bottom. If unsure, remove the cylinder and piston and see if the crankshaft is binding.