Author Topic: Sterling Baby Ringmaster Build. (Read 4767 times)

Jeffrey Olijar · « **on:** September 08, 2009, 07:12:08 PM »

does anybody have tracings of the parts for the Sterling Lil' Stuntin Ringmaster I lost the plane and the traced parts I had when I moved. It was a great flier and I want to build another one. The one I had was the best plane I had ever built too. And I lost a perfectly good black widow and tornado prop with it. $:-\$

I have the tracings for the PT ringmaster which has the same body so if I had the rib tracings or measurements of the start chord, end chord and thickness I could design my own wing. If anyone has a source for a kit I would be willing to purchase it but I would be more inclined to design my own wing. The box claims it has a 20-3/4" wingspan (I still have the box go figure).

I decided to build a sheet wing version from the tracings I already have. See the pictures Below.

John Rist · « **Reply #1 on:** September 09, 2009, 10:34:54 AM »

Dee and Pat have a very nice 1/2A Ringmaster.

http://www.brothersofthering.com/index.php?productID=776

They sell just the ribs and plans if that is what you want. I have the short kit and it looks really good. Hope to build it this winter.

Jeffrey Olijar · « **Reply #2 on:** September 09, 2009, 11:04:29 AM »

I don't think my black widow or golden bee (my only other .049 engines) would tow an airplane that big around. I might get one of those for conversion to electric once I finish testing my system. Last night I built the body, rudder, and stab for my plane. All I need to do is build the wing and motor mount.

-Edit
I decided to build the sheet wing version while I look for tracings for another built up one.
Here is a picture of my progress.

minnesotamodeler · « **Reply #3 on:** September 10, 2009, 05:45:40 AM »

Isn't that rudder backwards? I know it looks better that way, but not "Ringmaster"-ey.

Cute little plane. The chord-direction grain on the tips is a good idea.

Larry Renger · « **Reply #4 on:** September 10, 2009, 08:44:07 AM »

Look at the photo on the box under the model. He has the rudder on correctly.

minnesotamodeler · « **Reply #5 on:** September 10, 2009, 06:47:52 PM »

I see...still doesn't look quite "Ringmaster-ey".

Nice job though, I'm not knocking it.

George · « **Reply #6 on:** September 11, 2009, 07:27:26 AM »

Nice plane. I'll bet the elevator won't pull loose!

George

john e. holliday · « **Reply #7 on:** September 11, 2009, 08:51:58 AM »

I agree, the rudder doesn't looks right. DOC Holliday

John Rist · « **Reply #8 on:** September 11, 2009, 10:01:34 AM »

Jeffery,

I beleive I have this kit at home. I will look and let you know. If so I can give you the rib patterns. I wounder if it is possible to get a 1:1 scan of the ribs?

Robert McHam · « **Reply #9 on:** September 11, 2009, 10:18:26 AM »

Quote from: John Rist on September 11, 2009, 10:01:34 AM

Jeffery,

I beleive I have this kit at home. I will look and let you know. If so I can give you the rib patterns. I wounder if it is possible to get a 1:1 scan of the ribs?

One way to do this would be to have a background of say half inch squares like they did back in the day. That way they can be accurately reproduced.

Doc, I think I see what you see in that rudder... Could be the angle the pic was shot but I think I have seen a ringmaster from just about every angle...

Robert

Jeffrey Olijar · « **Reply #10 on:** September 11, 2009, 12:33:17 PM »

I am fairly certain I got it right. I put the cloth tape behind the wing to help prevent breaking. From my experience with these that is where they like to break.

As far as scanning what I did with my tracings was trace the parts on regular paper and scan in the tracings. as long as when you print them you unclick scale to fit page they will be the same size. I suppose you could scan the ribs themselves but I suspect you would need a dark backround to do it.

Robert McHam · « **Reply #11 on:** September 11, 2009, 01:18:53 PM »

Im convinced! Fin and rudder are fine.

Good luck on your maiden flight. Double check the CG whether you think you should or not! Don't want any surprizes there.

Robert

Jeffrey Olijar · « **Reply #12 on:** September 11, 2009, 01:57:51 PM »

I suspect I will be nose heavy as my motormount is wood instead of plastic. It weighs 1.3oz without paint.

minnesotamodeler · « **Reply #13 on:** September 11, 2009, 04:21:51 PM »

I agree the rudder/fin matches the box art--conceded, Jeffrey, it's on right--but it STILL jes' doan' look right somehow. Ringmasters have one ugly tail-end, stab/elev. and rudder/fin both. That one looks too good.

Incidentally, you're right about the tendency of the fuse to break at the TE. My fullsize Rings always broke there. It was tradition or something.

jamtx · « **Reply #14 on:** September 11, 2009, 07:35:29 PM »

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_8236433/tm.htm

Scroll down to post#17 Baby Ringmaster plan.

Jeffrey Olijar · « **Reply #15 on:** September 11, 2009, 11:37:17 PM »

Thankyou. The plan on that page is modified, the body is different but I think that the wing is the same. Ill build one with my body and see how it turns out. (when I can find some more time)

John Rist · « **Reply #16 on:** September 12, 2009, 08:30:43 AM »

I do have the kit. I have scanned most of the parts. I will email them to you.

John Rist · « **Reply #17 on:** September 12, 2009, 10:05:49 AM »

By the way, the scan is the original Sterling Kit # S13. Not the Estes kit.

Jeffrey Olijar · « **Reply #18 on:** September 12, 2009, 11:16:19 AM »

Thank you. I'll start It as soon as I finish my PT Ringmaster. 1st coat of color applied already. Black body and white wings for those wondering.

britcardoc · « **Reply #19 on:** November 12, 2009, 09:05:11 PM »

You guys are PUSHERS!!!! Baby Ringmaster is one I never built but always meant to.

Found the link above to the 1/2 A Ringmaster 3 nites ago...Downloaded the plans and glued them together.

Last night, after supper, I dug out a Perfect 1/2 A bellcrank an a small building board, glued the rib patterns to a Goldfish box, cut out rib templates and at 1:30 am I had a wing with leadouts, bellcrank and wire to the rear.

I had to go to work this morning!!! Cut out the fuse/firewall tonight. Maybe I can get it together and primed.

I have not figure out how to keep the LG in place yet....maybe these little nylon clamps in my "useless hardware I cannot get rid of box".

John Cralley · « **Reply #20 on:** November 12, 2009, 09:21:50 PM »

For those interested, Pat King has a Baby Ringmaster laser cut kit. I think he is asking $35 for it. You can email him at: patdk@aol.com

The kit has a nice set of plans with all the parts shown (ribs etc.).

John

britcardoc · « **Reply #21 on:** November 13, 2009, 11:36:12 AM »

Built a fuse last night and fitted it to the wing. Went to bed. Primed it a few minutes ago, yes at work. Probably put color on tonight. Try to shoot a pic, before I cover the wing. Try to post it. I'm a ignorant computer barbarian. I'll try brouse.

Dan

britcardoc · « **Reply #22 on:** November 13, 2009, 07:47:36 PM »

Promised a pic. Color on the fuse. Tomorrow I can mask and add a canopy. It really needs it. About to cover the wing. Need to find leadout eyelets first. Back to the "box.

John Castle · « **Reply #23 on:** November 14, 2009, 11:16:43 AM »

I liked the lines on this model a lot. In my case I got lazy and built it with a solid wing.

britcardoc · « **Reply #24 on:** November 17, 2009, 09:15:19 PM »

It needs wheels, motor, elevator horn, and TRIM!!!!!!!!!!!!! And flying.
Boy does this look plain. I've got to do a checkerboard piece by piece on the wing.

Dan

John Rist · « **Reply #25 on:** November 18, 2009, 01:59:42 PM »

Quote from: britcardoc on November 17, 2009, 09:15:19 PM

It needs wheels, motor, elevator horn, and TRIM!!!!!!!!!!!!! And flying.
Boy does this look plain. I've got to do a checkerboard piece by piece on the wing.

Dan

Looks great!! I would put a Baby Ring Master decal on the out board wing and go for it. I am not sure where you can find the artwork but water slide decals are easy if you have a computer. I think I have seen the decal on the http://www.brotherhoodofthering.info/ site.

PS
http://www.brotherhoodofthering.info/flightline/photos/show-album.asp?albumid=11&photoid=227

britcardoc · « **Reply #26 on:** November 18, 2009, 08:49:52 PM »

So how do you turn that Ringmaster image into a decal? I have a printer.

I'm some kind of stupid......The checkerboard is 28 individual 1/2 inch squares. I drew it out with a ball point pen on the Monokote, ironed them on and wiped off the ball point pen ink with rubbing alcohol.

All I really need now is a prop and wheels. Thanks guys, this was fun.

John Rist · « **Reply #27 on:** November 19, 2009, 10:03:55 AM »

Quote from: britcardoc on November 18, 2009, 08:49:52 PM

So how do you turn that Ringmaster image into a decal? I have a printer.

What I do is download the logo and save it to a file. I quite often delete or add items or text to the logo. For this I use a program called MS Paint. I think most windows machines have paint. I then pull the picture into MS word. MS word allows you adjust the size of the picture. I run a test print on plain paper to check size. I them print the finished product on decal material. I have used three types. Water slide clear, Water slide white, and white vinyl. The white vinyl is bumper sticker material. The white vinyl is the heaviest but I always put decals on the outboard wing only in place of some tip weight. I am sure their are other posts on making decals. By the way you do need to spray the decal with a clear spray to seal it from fuel.

britcardoc · « **Reply #28 on:** November 19, 2009, 10:22:47 AM »

Where does decal paper come from?

Pretty good for a few evenings effort and wood from the balsa scrap box.

Dan

John Rist · « **Reply #29 on:** November 19, 2009, 12:49:08 PM »

Quote from: britcardoc on November 19, 2009, 10:22:47 AM

Where does decal paper come from?

Pretty good for a few evenings effort and wood from the balsa scrap box.

Dan

Google decal paper
http://www.decalpaper.com/category-s/8.htm?gclid=COvlv4Lnl54CFQmbnAodrmDGkQ
is one that popper up.

I would have to look at home to see what I used but I am sure most all will work. Others out there may know of a good supply.

Mark Misegadis · « **Reply #30 on:** March 15, 2010, 07:40:48 AM »

Searching on information on the beginners Ringmaster kit with the flat wing. I picked up an entire heard of Ringmaster kits yesterday from a new friend and included in this lot is an Estes PT Ringmaster Trainer. This is the same one that is pictured earlier in this thread although its been built without the plastic mount.

I am assuming that this is the same kit as the Sterling Beginners Ringmaster with the difference being the mount and all the balsa shapes and measurements are the same. If not it would ne nice of the Ringmaster experts would elaborate. (These kits appear to only resemble a Ringmaster actually and if you want a real one you need to talk to Pat about both of his kits.)

On to my question: I am missing the plans for this kit. I need a reference as to where the bellcrank and leadouts go. I have the wingtips and will use those + the WS listed on the box to figure out how to cut the wing. The latter seems pretty straightforward.

If anyone could help me out with some measurements that would be great.

Mark

Mark Misegadis · « **Reply #31 on:** March 19, 2010, 10:41:31 PM »

Hi, Pulling this out of my previous post.

Does anyone have the leadout and bellcrank location for the beginners flat wing 1/2A Ringmaster?

Thanks, Mark

Robert McHam · « **Reply #32 on:** March 20, 2010, 12:53:46 AM »

Mark, I can help with the bell crank location but I can't seem to locate the instruction sheet for the lead out location.

The point you need is three fourths of an inch from the center of the wing and one and a quarter inch from the leading edge. I hope the pictures are of help. I highlighted the location with the help of paint in the second picture.

Robert

Robert McHam · « **Reply #33 on:** March 20, 2010, 01:00:18 AM »

This should get you close for the lead out location.

Robert

John Rist · « **Reply #34 on:** March 20, 2010, 08:19:13 AM »

Is it not true that bell crank location is not critical. That only the leadout exit point affects flight performance?

LARRY RICE · « **Reply #35 on:** March 20, 2010, 09:21:32 AM »

How critical is bellcrank location?
"Jim" Walker made a Fireball that could roll, the bellcrank was located close to the stabilizer and elevator. The leadouts came off at the wing tip in the standard place.
Larry

Mark Misegadis · « **Reply #36 on:** March 20, 2010, 01:08:15 PM »

Thanks for the information Robert. This was helpful.

I would also like to say thank you to John Castle for information on his Ringmaster pictured above in the post.

I have a set of tracing plans almost complete for the Estes PT Ringmaster STE 6753 (Beginners Ringmaster). I was getting ready to do the same for the Estes PT Beginners Ringmaster Biplane STE 6754 but found they included the wrong Fuse in the kit. (from the 6753)

I have started on the 6753. Wing is assembled. Fuse is laminated. I added 1/64 ply for strength. The epoxy is getting ready to Kick now.

Mark

Rod Lamer · « **Reply #37 on:** March 23, 2010, 09:15:16 AM »

Where can I get a kit? Everywhere I look people want an arm and a leg for one. Always wanted one. Thanks

John Cralley · « **Reply #38 on:** March 23, 2010, 10:05:11 AM »

Quote from: Rod Lamer on March 23, 2010, 09:15:16 AM

Where can I get a kit? Everywhere I look people want an arm and a leg for one. Always wanted one. Thanks

Rod, Email Pat King patdk@aol.com unless you think $35 is an arm and a leg for a laser cut Baby Ringmaster kit.

John

Rod Lamer · « **Reply #39 on:** March 23, 2010, 08:55:46 PM »

Thanks, not bad at all. What i mean is that all the kits are collectors items now and thats where I get the price thing from.

Robert McHam · « **Reply #40 on:** March 24, 2010, 12:18:58 AM »

Quote from: Rod Lamer on March 23, 2010, 08:55:46 PM

Thanks, not bad at all. What i mean is that all the kits are collectors items now and thats where I get the price thing from.

I know just what you mean Rod. The last one I saw went for about 46 dollars and then add shipping on that. These days the sellers are charging around ten dollars for shipping and even more! Even now I have my eye on a half A profile kit and the seller has the shipping listed for nearly fifteen dollars! Sickening!

This was actually much less than I have been seeing the original Baby Ringmasters sell for.

The old song said "There ain't nothing like the real thing baby" and that might be true but Sterling was well known for their heavy wood and poor die cutting and what you would get with a Pat King kit is wood selected by a craftsman and laser cut parts. Here is a link with more info. http://stunthanger.com/smf/index.php?topic=14802.0

Robert

John Rist · « **Reply #41 on:** March 24, 2010, 10:36:37 AM »

If you are collecting you must pony up to the bar and pay the high price. What you are paying for is a piece of history. If you want to build and fly go with the new laser cut kit. By the way, the reason for the high shipping cost is to keep eBay fees down. Ebay gets a pound of flesh on the bid cost. They do not collect fees on the shipping. If you understand this it all makes sense. You set your limit for an item which includes the shipping and bid accordingly. Ebay owns PayPal - so on a PayPal sale Ebay makes close to 8%. Ebay is the most profitale internet company in the world. They have no inventory and make Millions of $ per DAY.

britcardoc · « **Reply #42 on:** March 24, 2010, 11:21:29 AM »

I just printed the plans on my home computer and pasted the pages together(link is above), cut the pieces from the plans using balsa in my scrap box. The only new stuff was spars and a bellcrank I had.

dan

Rod Lamer · « **Reply #43 on:** March 24, 2010, 06:00:30 PM »

Don't see a link.

britcardoc · « **Reply #44 on:** March 25, 2010, 07:53:36 AM »

Reply #14. That's where I got it.

pat king · « **Reply #45 on:** March 25, 2010, 09:03:00 AM »

If you want to use a Cox Surestart engine do the following:
1. Remove the choke tube from the back of the engine, the screws will fit without the choke tube.
2. Place both gussets on the inside of the fuselage.
3. Use a Brodak #BH501 tank or a Perfect #1 tank.
These changes are shown on the later kit plans.

Pat

john e. holliday · « **Reply #46 on:** April 02, 2010, 08:23:43 AM »

Quote from: Rod Lamer on March 23, 2010, 09:15:16 AM

Where can I get a kit? Everywhere I look people want an arm and a leg for one. Always wanted one. Thanks

Yes, the day of the $1.95 1/2A kits is long gone. I can still remember when a sheet of 1/16 X 3 X 36 balsa was less than a dollar.

britcardoc · « **Reply #47 on:** April 08, 2010, 07:52:45 AM »

My first McCoy was $4.95, came without a box...hobby shop had a display box with 6 in it. 1/16x3x36 was about 25 cents and good wood. About 1955 0r 56.

don Burke · « **Reply #48 on:** April 08, 2010, 10:11:08 AM »

Quote from: john e. holliday on April 02, 2010, 08:23:43 AM

Yes, the day of the $1.95 1/2A kits is long gone. I can still remember when a sheet of 1/16 X 3 X 36 balsa was less than a dollar.

You're just a young whippersnapper! When I was first buying balsa in the 50s, a 1/16 x 3 x 36 sheet was 16 cents!