Looks nice to me!
If it were me I would start with a CG right on the leading edge and take the added weight off the front till you find the best CG.
It will turn better with a little more elevator. Should turn OK but I think you will agree after flying a few tanks that it is on the tame side.

Many will agree that most of the new sure starts will benefit from tightening the ball socket even though new.

The artwork will one day date this plane! I like it!

Robert   

Looks like fun...Robert's comment about elevator size kinda depends on where the CG ends up--far enough back to make it a little twitchy, and that'll be plenty of elevator.  Far enough forward to make it groove nice and stable, and you might want it bigger. Like twice as big.  Or more.  Fly it and see.

John,

Congratulations on a successful maiden flight! 

Some things to check:

1. Push rod flex.

2. Elevator throw both ways.

3. Hinge freedom both ways.

4. Thrust alignment.

Bill

He means check for upthrust, it would make insides tighter than outsides.

The surestarts are reliable little engines, just not powerhouses.  I bought a bucketful back when they were dumping them for 6 bucks or something; still have several I've never unpackaged.  Not bad sport engines at all, especially with the spring starter that eliminates the mild frustration of starting backwards. Steady runners.

But I wouldn't put mine on anything longer than 35' lines.  We're talking about the power of a Babe Bee or so.

So where did the red anodized case come from? Pretty sharp looking.

There is a dealer on that big auction site that sells some of these in a lot of colors. I don't think they are anodized but possibly powder coated but more likely painted. They look pretty sharp but I personally wonder how long they will look this nice after having some fuel on them. If they are painted I don't have much hope they will look nice for long in use

Tim Wiltse actually does anodize engines and has some sweet ones. He also makes a rear rotor 049 which uses some of the Cox componants. Much like the RR-1 did.
http://halfa-works.com/ I know these colors will hold up under fuel.  
Other examples or Mr. Wiltse's work:
http://hypercoloranodizing.tripod.com/index.html

Notice also that it is the cast casing and not the machined casing we are more familiar with.

John, Thanks for your flight report. I am glad it went as well as it did. I will agree that 35 foot lines will be much better.
I hope your next flights are soon and improved!

Robert
 

...which is why I use over/under leadout guides on most of my planes.

Doc,

That might work on an airplane with external controls, where you can see any line twists inboard of the tip guide.

Bill

Both leadouts through the same guide, I'd be a little concerned about line connectors hanging up on one another. Guess you'd have to use unequal LO lengths, with unequal lines to match.  Seem like a lot o hassle to me. 1/2" seperation is enough to avoid problems.