Author Topic: Sarpolus Corsair (Read 4970 times)

Larry Renger · « **on:** January 10, 2011, 08:11:07 AM »

At the 2011 AMA Expo, as usual, I built a model while manning the Knights of the Round Circle booth (posted on the main forum). This year, Larry Rice was kind enough to provide a Sarpolus Corsair from his stable of over 100 kits (!). I wanted this particular model because it looks to be a good candidate for the Kwikee Stunt event. I normally would have chosen the Sarpolus Nobler, but no less an authority than Bob Hunt recommended the Corsair as the best flyer of that series. Who am I to argue? Besides, it is way cool looking.

The wood in the kit is excellent, and as you can see from the photo, it is going together very well. In the three days, I have it to the point of final assembly and ready to start mounting hardware.

The power choice is my current dilemma. To be sure that it would be competitive, I really ought to put on an AP Wasp .061. However, my Holland Hornet needs a new home, and I am really interested in the possibilities with electric power. Since the original goal was to explore the design's stunt potential, I suppose that the .061 is the way to go.

john e. holliday · « **Reply #1 on:** January 14, 2011, 09:44:23 AM »

I like it. Why not use a TeeDee .049 on it?

Larry Renger · « **Reply #2 on:** January 16, 2011, 08:29:16 PM »

Well, it's like the lady who asked the Texas Ranger why he carried a .45. He said "Because they don't make a .46"

I can always prop down and fuel down a bigger engine, and there is NO weight penalty in using the bigger bore engine, and I own 15 of them.

john e. holliday · « **Reply #3 on:** January 17, 2011, 10:57:29 AM »

Great answer.

Larry Renger · « **Reply #4 on:** February 25, 2011, 10:06:16 AM »

Here is the latest progress on the BHM kit for Sarpolus' Corsair. It is going together remarkably well. The stab aligned perfectly with the wing with NO adjustments! Good job, Larry (the other one, not me)

I screwed up cutting the ply doublers and will have to re-do them.

I plan to apply light glass to the wing center sections and have the LG mounted in the wing at the "bend" just like the real thing.

Victor Jeffreys · « **Reply #5 on:** February 25, 2011, 07:25:07 PM »

Is there a Stuka in this series? That would be way much badder.

Larry Renger · « **Reply #6 on:** February 25, 2011, 10:27:31 PM »

Talk to Captain Blackhawk. Maybe he can lean on Dick S. to come up with one. In a fight between a Corsair and a Stuka, there is NO doubt of the outcome. 200 mph speed advantage! C'mon.

I am not sure whether BHM makes the Scientific Stuka or not. The plans are available, at least.

john e. holliday · « **Reply #7 on:** February 26, 2011, 08:31:52 AM »

I beleive the Scientific Stuka was a hollow block kit. I had one years and years ago when it first came out. It wouldn't take much to modify the Sarpolous Corsair to Stuka out line.

LARRY RICE · « **Reply #8 on:** February 26, 2011, 09:10:40 AM »

Larry knows that I have been looking at the Stuka for a few years now but I have not found a way to attach a sturdy landing gear to the wing yet. When that is solved then I will make it. As to the Scientific kit, it requires laser cutting. That is an expense that we can not put out during a depression without some proof that the kit will be popular. As of this date No one has mentioned it anywhere or seemed interested.

Larry
Black Hawk Models

Larry Renger · « **Reply #9 on:** May 16, 2011, 07:17:41 AM »

Some progress! Working on a model only one evening a week and skipping weeks here and there makes progress slow. Here I have added fiberglass strips at the root and wing break, then carbon veil out to and inch beyond the break. Wow is that one rigid wing now.

For normal flying the reinforcement isn't necessary, but I am going to be powering the model with my usual AP Wasp .061 and adding wing mounted landing gear.

Ward Van Duzer · « **Reply #10 on:** May 16, 2011, 12:13:08 PM »

You don't really need a bent wing to make a Stuka Look like a Stuka...

W

Larry Renger · « **Reply #11 on:** May 16, 2011, 08:09:57 PM »

Yes, but it really helps to make a Corsair look right! Otherwise it looks like a Bearcat on a diet.

The wire for the gear will be on top of the wing, plugged through a hole to the bottom, then sewn through the fibreglass and carbon with Spectra thread. I think it will be strong enough for reasonable life.

Actually, that doesn't really look much like a Stuka if you look at the full scale version. Sorry. And yes, I do like the Still Stuka, no matter how un-scale it is.

Interesting detail (unfounded rumor alert!!!). I was told that Don Still was given an early prototype kit for the Barnstormer, took the wing and built the Stuka, much to the dismay of Lew Andrews. Anyone out there have evidence either way?

LARRY RICE · « **Reply #12 on:** May 17, 2011, 08:54:32 AM »

I am glad that you said it, Larry, I did not want to hurt anyones feelings. You can paint a canary black and call it a cat but it still will not p-r-r-r-r. The classic look of the Stuka is achieved with the wheel pants, gull wing and its angular lines ... not a coat of paint.

Larry

Larry Renger · « **Reply #13 on:** May 17, 2011, 09:50:30 AM »

Don't forget the sirens on the wheel pants! And the split flaps. Very fancy machine, that!

The Cox Stuka was a work of art, and it flew great! I have even looped one. Fragile, though! Never tried the bomb drop, unfortunately. The first year the model was the correct color of green. They changed it to black because it looked black in all the photos, and it looked WAY better in that color.

Larry Renger · « **Reply #14 on:** May 20, 2011, 11:44:29 PM »

Finally had some more time to work on the model. Got the landing gear installed. Here is a photo. The wire comes up through the wing, 2 layers of carbon veil and a strip of fibreglass. Then it is sewn down with Spectra thread. CA soaked into the weave, and there we are!

Larry Renger · « **Reply #15 on:** June 04, 2011, 11:51:14 AM »

Slowly but slowly it comes together!

Here is the mounted engine, 3x48 bolts with T-nuts on the backside. .020 wire through fuselage for tank mounting.

Bellcrank mount for a Perfect 3" bellcrank.

Tip line guide using slip-in eyelets to change the position. Pull the eyelet out (friction fit) and slide the leadout to the new hole.

I think it is all ready for finishing!

john e. holliday · « **Reply #16 on:** June 10, 2011, 07:58:26 AM »

Looking good.

Larry Renger · « **Reply #17 on:** June 10, 2011, 11:12:21 PM »

Now comes the boring part - finding the dings, filling them, sanding, sanding, sanding. Paint, then sanding, sanding...... well you get the idea.

I am not trying for a 20 point finish, but 5 would be nice!

john e. holliday · « **Reply #18 on:** June 11, 2011, 09:48:20 AM »

Are going for flying points or for appearance points as an old timer told me way back when I was a teenager.

Larry Renger · « **Reply #19 on:** June 16, 2011, 10:55:53 PM »

I intend, first to see how good it is for Kwikee Stunt with an AP Wasp/ holuszko venturi. Then I intend to refit it with an electronic driven throttle for use as a scale model. I have verified that a simple servo driver can be run through two lines to give one channel throttle control. More detail to follow if I can make it work in actual flight practice.

John Rist · « **Reply #20 on:** June 17, 2011, 01:40:49 AM »

Quote from: Larry Renger on June 16, 2011, 10:55:53 PM

I intend, first to see how good it is for Kwikee Stunt with an AP Wasp/ holuszko venturi. Then I intend to refit it with an electronic driven throttle for use as a scale model. I have verified that a simple servo driver can be run through two lines to give one channel throttle control. More detail to follow if I can make it work in actual flight practice.

It will work in actual flight pratice. Been there done that - it works!

roger · « **Reply #21 on:** July 03, 2011, 08:03:07 AM »

maybe i missed it . how much for the kit?

LARRY RICE · « **Reply #22 on:** July 03, 2011, 09:36:50 AM »

The list price from Black Hawk Models is $38.00.

We also carry Dick Sarpolus's
AT-6
ZERO
SPITFIRE
ME-109
P-51
FW-190
F-86
MIG-15
NOBLER
All at $35.00 each
plus several double kits at a reduced price:
VICTORY OVER THE PACIFIC (CORSAIR & ZERO) $65.00
BATTLE OF BRITAIN (SPITFIRE & ME-109) $60.00
ACES OVER EUROPE (P-51 & FW-190) $60.00
MIG ALLEY (F-86 & MIG-15) $60.00

Larry

Larry Renger · « **Reply #23 on:** July 08, 2011, 12:05:00 PM »

I got an e-mail asking if the vertical tail wasn't on backwards. Plans? I'm a "pro", I don't need no stinkin' plans!

OOPS! It sure was!!!

Not only was it on backwards, but about 1/2" too far back! Now all fixed.

roger · « **Reply #24 on:** July 11, 2011, 02:45:16 PM »

anybody have any nice pic of dicks planes?

LARRY RICE · « **Reply #25 on:** July 12, 2011, 06:31:54 AM »

Roger,

We have an on line catalog with several pictures, descriptions and prices:

www.blackhawkmodels.com the Dick Sarpolus kits are under the PS (profile series)

section of the catalog. If you come to a picture just click on the picture for more information.

Larry

roger · « **Reply #26 on:** July 13, 2011, 03:35:16 PM »

what is carbin vail how do you put it on? ware do you get ithttp://

Larry Renger · « **Reply #27 on:** July 13, 2011, 08:16:11 PM »

Carbon veil is basically a very fine carbon fiber "silkspan" material. You apply it by pre-coating the wood with a couple of coats of dope, then laying it down with very thin dope through the tissue. From there, you apply a couple more coats of dope, or better yet, very thinned (alcohol or dope thinner both work) epoxy to bond it to the wood.

I buy it at the AMA Expo, and if I can remember the source, I will come back and report it. Perhaps someone else can provide that info, as it is from a major model composite material supplier. (Sorry, I have the memory of a STEEL .... sieve)

john e. holliday · « **Reply #28 on:** July 14, 2011, 10:37:05 AM »

I got my carbon veil from RSM DIST. This was years ago when Eric had it in stock.

Larry Renger · « **Reply #29 on:** July 15, 2011, 11:03:04 AM »

Well, I sprayed the canopy, carbon veil areas, and parts of the fuselage with white epoxy last night. I will mask off the nose stripes, canopy and main fuselage numbers, then spray the main colors. The rest of the deco will be ink-jet printed stickers. White parts just aren't that good when done with stickers. I am doing the deco scheme of the restored Corsair #29, Pirate ship. Photo attached below.

Larry Renger · « **Reply #30 on:** July 21, 2011, 09:56:21 AM »

Here is a low resolution version of the art. I can e-mail better copies to any who want them. Let me know your preferred format.

roger · « **Reply #31 on:** July 21, 2011, 02:43:10 PM »

can i see the better one

Larry Renger · « **Reply #32 on:** July 22, 2011, 10:05:11 AM »

Too big to post here, I have e-mailed the .jpg high res file to you.

Last night I masked off the areas that are to remain white: Canopy, #29s and the striping on the top of the nose. Next week, the gray underside gets sprayed. Then I will mask it off and do the dark blue. Finally, I will airbrush the pale blue areas in so they fade into the other colors rather than having hard lines. Getting that right on a small model isn't going to be easy!

Finally, the flags, kill emblems and star and bars will be stickers done on white film.

Larry Renger · « **Reply #33 on:** August 05, 2011, 09:27:53 AM »

Bummer! I had the Corsair all masked off for the dark blue and was going to take a photo for this thread, but my camera died! It is only about 5 years old, so I am not happy. Anyone out there know what the expected life of a digital camera is? I would have thought they were more reliable than the mechanical ones.

Anyway, the dark blue went on with no runs and a high gloss (Klasskote epoxy finish). That is the good news. The bad news is that the paint is rather transparent and looks blotchy if closely examined. Also there are a batch of fisheyes as I didn't wipe the model down with alcohol first. Dumb!

I plan on shooting the light gray next. I need to make the LG doors this week. I forgot about them!

Larry Renger · « **Reply #34 on:** September 23, 2011, 01:57:36 PM »

After a several week layoff (vacations in New Orleans and at the beach here in CA, poor me) I got back on the Corsair. Using a trick suggested in the building section, I put heat shrink tubing on the landing gear struts and glued my L/G cover panels to that. Boy does that work well!

I am in the middle of re-masking the plane to do the light gray on the bottom. Had to stop for one of Warren Walker's Pepperochini shredded Beef sandwiches. Dang, that sort of thing gets in the way of building.

Camera is fixed, so photos soon! I did all 3 LG doors on each side. They are 1/32" ply.

LARRY RICE · « **Reply #35 on:** September 29, 2011, 10:26:51 PM »

Come on Larry you have been working on this thing forever. I think that if I remember the part count right in this model you have about a month on each part.

Larry

Larry Renger · « **Reply #36 on:** September 30, 2011, 12:43:22 AM »

Well, I only get to work on it one evening a week at best, and what with the party atmosphere, I am lucky to get anything done at all. I have 3 projects going at home, and 2 at Warren's house. I just published the Sky Streak to Flying Models, the Sky Fire to 1/2A Flyer, along with an engine hop-up article. Then there was the trip to N'Awlens and another to vacation at the beach, and oddly enough, Warren and Ramona wanted a week to themselves. So work is going VERY slowly. I actually fully built the model at the AMA show, less the bellcrank mount, leadout guide, landing gear and putting the vertical tail on the right way. I hate finishing, and since I want to fly the model in fun scale, I need to do a bunch of different color masking and painting, plus the artwork and decal making.

Oddly enough, my wife has a thing or two she wants done, DEAR!

Larry Renger · « **Reply #37 on:** October 11, 2011, 11:50:12 PM »

Well, I got the landing gear doors on, masked and shot the light gray underside. My host is off in the Sierras for a couple of weeks, so the model is yet again on hold.

Note that I stole an idea from the building forum and put heat-shrink tubing on the LG wires. The LG doors glued to that wonderfully!

Also, old shopping bags make CHEAP and effective masking paper!