That Tee Dee will need pressurized fuel. Do you have a tapped backplate? I would back-pedal from drilling the nipple.
If this is going on a profile, I'd say jig it up on the bench and try it.
Either way, try running the pressure to either vent, and plug the other.

I did a similar thing on my Scientific P-40. That was an AP .061 with venturi, and a 2/3 ounce tin tank with muffler pressure. The engine ran pretty much the same when pressurized from either vent.
https://stunthanger.com/smf/12-a-building/scientific-24'-p-40/?action=dlattach;attach=288728

            Pressure isn't needed for a TD to stunt or using a wedge tank. Understanding the TD is key. You need to mount the engine inline with the exit of the pickup. This is can be obtained by shimming the engine off of the fuse with aluminum under the engine lugs or even using offset thrust wedges to offset the engine outboard which also places the venturi nipple more inline with the pickup. Ideally using a TD it's best to use a narrow but longer tank. Wedge tanks place the fuel load to far outboard which puts the engine into a lean condition and maneuvering makes this worse.

       You can also cut out the doublers and fuse and insert the wedge from the inboard side of the plane to the outboard side. Rather than have the entire tank mounted on the outboard side of the fuse this has the pickup outside of the centerline too much so by doing the above your making it inline which may require you to shim the tank not only horizontally but vertically also if you have the room to do so. This works similar to a inboard mounted tank whereas you need to launch lean and it will richen up due to centrifugal force.

          Keep in mind Perfect tanks are not Perfect. They never soldered the pickup tube internally to the inside of the tank, the tubing is typically too small and the tubing can also be split inside even when new in the box. Taking the back off and insuring no leaks and everything is soldered properly is key to insuring that the tank is going to work properly. Many times when the tubing is coming out of the top, they just pushed the tubing into the tank until it hit the bottom. This now has the pickup in the incorrect portion of the tank. This is why it's best to remove the back and do what's needed to make it work correctly. This will automatically have your tank height adjustment off.

Like Kenneth said, long skinny tank. I had best result with a long 3/4 ounce tank embedded into the profile fuselage. 

Hello Kevin,

  This is a link to my TD powered Focke-Wulf
where the community discussed stunting with
a TD.

https://stunthanger.com/smf/12-a-building/focke-wulf-190d-stunter-build/

  The trick seems to be sleeving the TD venturi down
with K&S aluminum tube about 1/8" long, pressed in
just above the spray holes.

  The video let's you hear the results. It's going
rich on the outside maneuvers but that was easily
solved by adjusting the needle.
  Not a great pattern but it was very early spring
and a very new plane.
That's my excuse !     

  The tighter venturi does reduce the TD's power but
testing props and RPM's indicated it's about equal to
a good Medallion.

  The tank you're considering should work fine too,
but Mr. Cook is giving you good advice.

Cheers! - K.