Author Topic: New Half-Lite Stunter II (Read 8919 times)

Heman Lee · « **on:** September 03, 2012, 11:00:11 AM »

I am working on a new version of my Half-Lite Stunter using a Half-Lite Combat foam core. I have been very successful with this stunter at the last few contest. It is very capable of a 500+ pattern which I have already done twice this year.

Those of you that are not already familiar with the free plans can find it on my web site: http://aeromaniacs.com/Freeplans.htm

On the new version I extent the wing span to 35" and area to 223 sq ins.

Since the wing core are cut in staggered sections, I do not have a useable foam cradle to use the "Lost Foam" method. Instead a used a modified "Kept Foam" method which allow me the make a straight wing without the need to jig everything up.

You can see my progress on :
http://s457.photobucket.com/albums/qq293/Aeromaniacs/Building%20the%20Half-Lite%20II/

Heman
http://aeromaniacs.com/index.html

Sorry Larry for not contributing enough on this board. I've been busy work on some web projects. I'll have to come down to south to one of your Leprechaun events.

ray copeland · « **Reply #1 on:** September 04, 2012, 06:59:20 AM »

Heman, very cool build threads! I am almost finished with my 1/2 Lite. It is very similar to the plane i built using a Hyper Viper wing. I need to come up with a 1 1/2 oz uniflo tank sometime, i am currently using a Hayes 2 oz. on muffler pressure or a balloon with all my norvels. I plan on building a 1/2a stunter sometime starting with a Sig Akromaster wing. Good luck with your project, looks promising!

Larry Renger · « **Reply #2 on:** September 04, 2012, 10:57:45 AM »

We would be delighted to have you here, Heman!

I like what your are building there. What do you estimate as the final weight?

Heman Lee · « **Reply #3 on:** September 04, 2012, 01:19:37 PM »

Quote from: ray copeland on September 04, 2012, 06:59:20 AM

Heman, very cool build threads! I am almost finished with my 1/2 Lite. It is very similar to the plane i built using a Hyper Viper wing. I need to come up with a 1 1/2 oz uniflo tank sometime, i am currently using a Hayes 2 oz. on muffler pressure or a balloon with all my norvels. I plan on building a 1/2a stunter sometime starting with a Sig Akromaster wing. Good luck with your project, looks promising!

You only need about 7/8 oz to complete the AMA pattern, so I use a Brodak BH521 1oz tank. Setup is on my site: http://aeromaniacs.com/norvefsetup.htm

Sig Akromaster wing might be too thick. You might have to scale it down.

Heman Lee · « **Reply #4 on:** September 04, 2012, 01:24:50 PM »

Quote from: Larry Renger on September 04, 2012, 10:57:45 AM

We would be delighted to have you here, Heman!

I like what your are building there. What do you estimate as the final weight?

The model that I am flying now has the stock foam core with fascal and it weights 11.8 oz. I even had another 1/4 ox of weight in the nose. The new one should weight close to same because I increase the wing area. But I plan to put a better finish on it. I believe it should still perform competitively even at 14oz. The current model actually flies quite well even in wind up to 15mph. At Ted Goyet and NW Regional contests. I still scored about 450pt under those conditions.

ray copeland · « **Reply #5 on:** September 04, 2012, 02:35:01 PM »

Heman, i can't quite get through the pattern sometimes on 1oz. with my .061. Have had a couple close calls depending on needle setting. I saw your setup, i ordered a 1 1/3 oz tank from Brodaks, i will try that. Thanks, Ray

Heman Lee · « **Reply #6 on:** September 04, 2012, 04:41:08 PM »

Quote from: ray copeland on September 04, 2012, 02:35:01 PM

Heman, i can't quite get through the pattern sometimes on 1oz. with my .061. Have had a couple close calls depending on needle setting. I saw your setup, i ordered a 1 1/3 oz tank from Brodaks, i will try that. Thanks, Ray

Well that also depends on many factors such as how much nitro and oil you are running and weight of your model. I run between 15-18%. 20% oil. What is your setup? Also, I have my Norvel B06 choked down my using a AP crankcase with a RSM venturi. If you do not need the extra power, you can try to choke down your Norvel by putting panty hose material over the venturi secure with a small o-ring. (Expert Stunt Tip)

Yes, when I was flying my ME109, Norvel .061 on 25% nitro 52' X .012 line it took about 1.3oz like yours.

My setup is APC 5.5 X 2.5, 15% nitiro, 20.1K - 20.3 K launch, 3 head gasket, Merlin plug. 1 oz gives me a 6min run on 42' lines. I am doing about a 4.2-.3 lap time. Some people might not be comfortable with that lap time? Also, is your tank uniflow, muffler presure? I run uniflow to open air.

ray copeland · « **Reply #7 on:** September 04, 2012, 08:45:56 PM »

Haven't done as much record keeping on my 1/2a's as i should have, only flown one in competition. My built up lightweight ( 9 oz. ) models i run a 6x2 apc with 10% nitro, 22% oil on 42 to 48 foot lines, depending on wind. On my heavier (11 oz.) models i run a cox 5x3 and 25 % omega. A couple of my engines are the helicopter norvel bushed engines, they run great. I use either norvel plugs or Merlin plugs, no head gaskets and spring starters. Mostly don't use a tach, launch by ear. Hayes tank on muffler pressure or balloon tank. My Brodak 1 1/3 oz tank should be here tomorrow, i will set it up uniflow and should have the new half lite done next week , maybe can do some testing. Haven't had much handle time lately , i will keep better notes in the future!

Heman Lee · « **Reply #8 on:** September 05, 2012, 11:22:06 AM »

Quote from: ray copeland on September 04, 2012, 08:45:56 PM

Haven't done as much record keeping on my 1/2a's as i should have, only flown one in competition. My built up lightweight ( 9 oz. ) models i run a 6x2 apc with 10% nitro, 22% oil on 42 to 48 foot lines, depending on wind.
..... I use either norvel plugs or Merlin plugs, no head gaskets and spring starters.

Ya, with a 6 X 2 you must be screaming! Are you running some type of presure? I am surprised you can get any suction with no head gasket. What do you mean NO HEAD GASKET? You have to have at least 1?

ray copeland · « **Reply #9 on:** September 05, 2012, 12:53:36 PM »

Heman, i meant no extra gaskets. Muffler pressure on the hayes plastic 2 oz. clunk tanks and of course you know how well balloon tanks work. I will post a couple of pics when i get a chance. The apc 6x2 works very well on a light model. Thanks, Ray

Bill Little · « **Reply #10 on:** September 05, 2012, 01:20:50 PM »

HI Ray,

Are you using .008 cables or Spider Wire for the 42' and 48' lines?

Thanks!
Bill

ray copeland · « **Reply #11 on:** September 05, 2012, 02:27:08 PM »

Hey Bill, 20 lb. spiderwire for sport flying and .012 cable for contests. I can't work with the .008.

Bill Little · « **Reply #12 on:** September 05, 2012, 06:25:29 PM »

Quote from: ray copeland on September 05, 2012, 02:27:08 PM

Hey Bill, 20 lb. spiderwire for sport flying and .012 cable for contests. I can't work with the .008.

Thanks, Ray. How does the .012 work for you? Seems the length would have to be shortened?? I don't care for the .008, seems it gets messed up just sitting in the flight box! LOL!!

Bill

ray copeland · « **Reply #13 on:** September 05, 2012, 07:16:49 PM »

Bill, my .012 lines are 42' ,normally used for combat, they work fine!

Larry Renger · « **Reply #14 on:** September 05, 2012, 11:22:07 PM »

I used to have trouble setting up .008 lines, but then got the idea of hitting the ends with CA before trying to do the line ends. That settled the fraying problem and I was able to make very nice sets of lines ever since. I use aluminum tube ferrules that are deburred on the outside and chamfered on the inside. Use a round nose plier for your crimps, and heat shrink over all to reduce stress.

Keep your lines far away from the roll-out of big planes, preferably off to the side of the circle. I not only had a set of lines ruined by snagging by a .60 plane tailwheel snagging them, it threw my model about 15 ft and did some serious damage.

Heman Lee · « **Reply #15 on:** September 06, 2012, 07:35:21 PM »

Quote from: Larry Renger on September 05, 2012, 11:22:07 PM

I used to have trouble setting up .008 lines, but then got the idea of hitting the ends with CA before trying to do the line ends. That settled the fraying problem and I was able to make very nice sets of lines ever since. I use aluminum tube ferrules that are deburred on the outside and chamfered on the inside. Use a round nose plier for your crimps, and heat shrink over all to reduce stress.

Keep your lines far away from the roll-out of big planes, preferably off to the side of the circle. I not only had a set of lines ruined by snagging by a .60 plane tailwheel snagging them, it threw my model about 15 ft and did some serious damage.

I hate wrapping any type line period, but .008 are particularly difficult due to my poor eye sight. That is why I order them from Tom Morris.

I have 1 pair of lines that I use now that are my favorite. I've been using them for many year and still have not broken. They are from a company known as Stellar Specialties. They have a copper color finish to them. Does anybody know where I can find these lines?

Rick Bollinger · « **Reply #16 on:** September 06, 2012, 09:03:18 PM »

Herman, I am working on a 1/2 lite sorta. I ran across your site but could not get a full dimension plan from it. so I used your cutting board as a reference. My wing is a 60% Sig twister at 30.5 span and around 180 sq in with flaps. Its about a day from being finished. Have a ap 061 with a td ventury and needle. It runs good on the bench but have never ran this set-up before.

Heman Lee · « **Reply #17 on:** September 06, 2012, 11:38:03 PM »

Quote from: Rick Bollinger on September 06, 2012, 09:03:18 PM

Heman, I am working on a 1/2 lite sorta. I ran across your site but could not get a full dimension plan from it. so I used your cutting board as a reference. My wing is a 60% Sig twister at 30.5 span and around 180 sq in with flaps. Its about a day from being finished. Have a ap 061 with a td ventury and needle. It runs good on the bench but have never ran this set-up before.

The model looks more like my other design call the Lil' Zinger II which is on my web site. It also has a constant 30" chord wing.
The PDF file give detail number on nose, tail moments. I do not use any CAD program. Most of the time I design as I build. What did you cover your wing with? When I get the design finalize, I will try to get someone to draw some CAD plans. Maybe be version III.

It look like yours will fly very nicely!

Heman

Larry Renger · « **Reply #18 on:** September 07, 2012, 12:29:11 AM »

Looks a lot like the Stork, except for the wingtips.

Rick Bollinger · « **Reply #19 on:** September 07, 2012, 07:13:58 AM »

Just monokote. Just trying it out if it flys well the next one will be silkspan. The fuse and rudder will most likely be lusterkote. This is the first time using pinned hinges. They are not fun

Larry Renger · « **Reply #20 on:** September 07, 2012, 11:02:34 AM »

Most of the time I use sewn hinges, which work extremely well and are REALLY easy to do right. On my Flite-E, however, I did something different. I made up the stab and elevator out of laminated 1/32" sheet with Polyspan inbetween the layers. As a result you have a full span hinge that is totally invisible! Note the sewn flap hinges (the wing was already built when I made my modifications) and no visible hinge on the elevator.

Rick Bollinger · « **Reply #21 on:** September 07, 2012, 01:44:45 PM »

Larry, I like that idea. How is it holding up? As far as sewing didnt think of that. I have never tried that either. I have not seen that done for quite a while

Heman Lee · « **Reply #22 on:** September 07, 2012, 04:27:24 PM »

Quote from: Larry Renger on September 07, 2012, 11:02:34 AM

Most of the time I use sewn hinges, which work extremely well and are REALLY easy to do right. On my Flite-E, however, I did something different. I made up the stab and elevator out of laminated 1/32" sheet with Polyspan inbetween the layers. As a result you have a full span hinge that is totally invisible! Note the sewn flap hinges (the wing was already built when I made my modifications) and no visible hinge on the elevator.

That is a good idea on hinges, I'll have to steal that idea from you on my next model. I had the same idea, but with Tyvek. Have you tried to use this material.? My concern was, if the glue will hold the material securely. Tyvek is sometimes like teflon, it resist the glue.

And the hinges are automatically sealed, which I think is very important. I my current Half-Lite, I used monocote hinges, which ar also sealed along the entire hinges line. On my new model, I wanted to finish the tail, so I use Sig Easy type hinge. I cut them in half about 3/16" wide as not to hinder the movement.

Larry Renger · « **Reply #23 on:** September 07, 2012, 07:48:04 PM »

I think Tyvek would be too stiff. Polyester cloth should work if you are afraid of fatigue with the Polyspan (I am keeping a CAREFUL eye on that hinge area!)

I use spray 77 cement to do the bonding, it will remain flexible, even if it gets into the hinge line.

Heman Lee · « **Reply #24 on:** September 07, 2012, 10:38:26 PM »

Quote from: Larry Renger on September 07, 2012, 07:48:04 PM

I think Tyvek would be too stiff. ...

Stiff?, I mean the stuff from Priority USPS or FEDX envelope. It's FREE!

kenneth cook · « **Reply #25 on:** September 08, 2012, 07:31:43 AM »

One material I found to work really well for hinges is Sig Koverall. For those of us that have some, there typically is more than enough of this material in scrap after covering a large model. This stuff glues excellent when using Testor's fast dry, and when doped over it resists becoming stiff. I used it on a .020 model recently. The main problem with this material, it looks and acts like 1/2 oz. fiberglass cloth. This just means don't rack the sheet as it will pull the fibers loose and cutting it requires a sharp knife as scissors fold the material over. I myself found it to be the next best thing to sewn hinges. Ken

Larry Renger · « **Reply #26 on:** September 09, 2012, 10:02:17 AM »

For cutting touchy materials, the Olfa rotary knves are a wonder. Never a snag, as the knife does not slide through the material, it cuts downward. Of course I use one of those cutting mats from the sewing store. That is where to get the rotary knife too.

Curare · « **Reply #27 on:** September 09, 2012, 07:34:47 PM »

Yes, very yes! The olfa gets a beating when I'm glassing, let me tell you!

Balsa Butcher · « **Reply #28 on:** September 11, 2012, 11:37:15 AM »

Regarding the copper colored wire you mentioned: Check with Daniel McKie (danielmckie123(at)gmail.com). He sells both copper colored wire and bright wire through is company "fly-by-wire". I think it is the same wire that you remember. One can order through E-bay or direct. Comes in 250" or 1000" spools and prices are very reasonable.

Heman Lee · « **Reply #29 on:** September 12, 2012, 11:01:01 PM »

Quote from: Balsa Butcher on September 11, 2012, 11:37:15 AM

Regarding the copper colored wire you mentioned: Check with Daniel McKie (danielmckie123(at)gmail.com). He sells both copper colored wire and bright wire through is company "fly-by-wire". I think it is the same wire that you remember. One can order through E-bay or direct. Comes in 250" or 1000" spools and prices are very reasonable.

Thanks Pete,
I found the company on eBay, they sell the 3 strand wire. What is the advantage of less strands. To me it seem that it might have less of the rubber band or stretch problem giving a more positive feel that the top flyers are looking for.