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Author Topic: K2R spot remover  (Read 788 times)

Offline Bootlegger

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K2R spot remover
« on: August 18, 2020, 12:31:31 PM »

  I posted this on the open forum, no response, what is a good sub for this spot remover, and what do I need make   a batch, where can i get the ingrentiants?  I'm obliged
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Gil Causey
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Offline kenneth cook

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Re: K2R spot remover
« Reply #1 on: August 18, 2020, 01:23:18 PM »
             I never found K2R to be good for anything aside from waste a lot of money and make me cough like crazy. Even as a spot remover, it ruins the fabric by changing it's color.  I went through 3 cans of it on a Skylark and ended up rebuilding 70% of it anyhow. The pieces on the fuse that were still oil soaked, I made a paste of talc and acetone. I also used a acid brush and my clean up thinner to assist.  When dry, I would brush off the powder and place a paper towel on it and heat with a iron. There's no removing oil from the wood when it's in there. No miracle product removes it and paint never sticks to it like virgin wood.
« Last Edit: August 18, 2020, 03:37:16 PM by kenneth cook »
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Offline Bootlegger

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Re: K2R spot remover
« Reply #2 on: August 18, 2020, 04:22:02 PM »

 Thanks, Ken, I 'ppreciate it... H^^
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Offline Dave Hull

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Re: K2R spot remover
« Reply #3 on: August 18, 2020, 05:42:52 PM »
I've had limited success "reconditioning" oil-soaked structures. Here's what I've tried:

1. Peel MonoKote or other covering
2. Wipe with clean paper towel
3. Wipe with clean paper towel soaked with lacquer thinner. (Also tried acetone, with no appreciable difference).  Use a respirator for this or give the plane away beforehand....
4. Lay a clean paper towel on the oily structure and iron thru it with your MonoKote iron. Keep doing this until you don't get any residue. You may have to endlessly repeat, waiting days/weeks in between
5 Alternate steps 3 and 4.

I have also "bagged" some smaller wings and structures in polyethylene and introduced lacquer thinner. The hope was that the solvent and vapors would extract oil faster than the structure would dissolve. Not a success....

I didn't find K2R to be very effective; certainly no more than step 3 above, by itself.

Something like StixIt is helpful if you have to put down heat-shrink covering over a treated area. It will likely make the color blotchy, though. You can't have everything in life....

If painting, I found KlassKote was more likely to stick and encapsulate, but an oily structure will cause the primer to separate sooner or later. Might be better off without the primer? I haven't tried that.

In a couple of cases I revived a plane sufficiently to get it to the Nats, but it's life was pretty much over.

I have quite a few hanging on the wall now with this problem. Wish there was some magical alternative....*


Divot McSlow

*--If I was one of those bazzillionares, I'd buy a large vacuum chamber. I bet that if you put a oil-soaked plane inside and pumped that dude down to 50 Torr for step 3-1/2, you'd have a chance at it....

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Online Dan McEntee

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Re: K2R spot remover
« Reply #4 on: August 18, 2020, 05:58:32 PM »
   Just to save you the time to check out the main forum;

     No one must use the search feature here! This has been covered more times than carter's has little liver pills! Save your money that you use to buy chemicals and get out your Monokote heat gun and boil the oil out. I didn't invent this, I learned about it here on the forums. K2R is SSSSSLLLLLLOOOOOOOOOOOWWWWW and messy. Mixing up your home brew slurry isn't much better. Just heat the area with your monokote heat gun, watch the oil come to the surface, then wipe it off with a paper towel. Work steady, keep the gun moving. You won't scorch the wood if you are careful at all.  When the oil is completely out of the wood, it just stops oozing, then move along to the next section. I learned this when I needed to recover my Primary Force ARF.  After a bazillion flights , all the China coat was falling off or delaminating. The right side wheel pant weighed about 20 times more than the left side from the oil soaking and that was affecting flight. The whole left side of the model was oil soaked from nose to tail. I checked into everyone's favorite method, and I forget who suggested it, but I tried everything just as a test, and  heat wins hands down. I got the wheel pant within a few grams of the right one, and took a significant amount of weight off the model. When I thought I was finished, I went back over the whole thing one more time just to check, them mopped on some lacquer thinner. This pulled the grail a bit, then block sanded everything. I brushed on a coat of SIG Stix-It around the nose, wing leading edge, wing roots at the fuselage, and anywhere else I thought might be a problem. I had NO problem putting on fresh orange monokote. I put the engine and such back on, and it was my old friend again! This was several years ago, and I have no ides what time frame to look for in previous threads, but it has come up several times before. There are no new problems, just new people have the same old ones! The answers are all here some where!
    Type at you later,
  Dan McEntee
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