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Author Topic: Fuel proofing  (Read 1990 times)

Offline Sam Feinstein

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Fuel proofing
« on: January 12, 2011, 07:31:43 PM »
Hello everyone,

Ive ordered my second control line airplane, a Black Hawk Models Little Bipe. Anyways, my plan is to make it look like either a fighter or barnstormer from the 20's or 30's. I have the paints I'd like to use, but they are not fuel proof. Is there anything I can spray or brush over my finished paint job to protect it?

Thanks,

Sam
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Offline LARRY RICE

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Re: Fuel proofing
« Reply #1 on: January 12, 2011, 10:27:18 PM »
That depends on what paint you are using.  Clear gloss Rust Olium is a fuel proof enamel but you will want it to dry 3 or 4 days in a warm place.
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Offline Tim Wescott

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Re: Fuel proofing
« Reply #2 on: January 12, 2011, 11:05:41 PM »
I thought I'd heard that the Rustoleum clear wasn't fuel proof -- I'm going to have to get me some!

Sam: do a test swatch before you paint up the whole model -- it'd be a shame to find out that your fuel proof coat isn't compatible with what you're trying to protect!
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Offline Dennis_Langworthy

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Re: Fuel proofing
« Reply #3 on: January 12, 2011, 11:49:02 PM »
Minwax makes some clear poly that is fuel proof.  It's available at Lowes and Home Depot.  I haven't found anything that it isn't compatable with yet, but I always do a test sample on a piece of card board.  Don't want to have to strip down a plane and start over.
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Offline Sam Feinstein

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Re: Fuel proofing
« Reply #4 on: January 13, 2011, 08:49:24 AM »
I have several cans Miniwax polyurethane, in spray and brush form. Would that work?
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Offline Larry Renger

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Re: Fuel proofing
« Reply #5 on: January 13, 2011, 09:43:35 AM »
Neither clear Rust-O-leum or Minwax Spray Spar Varnish are fuelproof.  Oddly, waterbased Urethane IS fuelproof.  Go figure.  I like Lustercote clear, myself.  If you buy something, make up a test panel before committing youself.
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Offline ray copeland

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Re: Fuel proofing
« Reply #6 on: January 13, 2011, 10:16:46 AM »
Sam, this is how i have finished the balsa on the last 5 planes i have built, first coat sanding sealer, second spray Rustoleum paint, third a couple of light coats of Minwax spray polyurethane. These planes are flown with 10 to 15 % nitro. No problems yet.  I have 3 1/2a's done in this manner running 25% nitro and no problems. Be sure to let the sanding sealer and the paint dry for a couple of days before using the poly and spray the poly coats within 10 minutes of each other. I would wipe down the 1/2a's right after flying to help protect the finish. The plane in the pic has about 30 flights now and no signs of paint problems.
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Offline minnesotamodeler

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Re: Fuel proofing
« Reply #7 on: January 13, 2011, 03:44:29 PM »
I don't know how some things just don't die...Rustoleum is reasonably fuelproof, EXCEPT THE CLEAR (also "specialty" colors: metallics, candies, etc.).

On the other hand, Larry, I use the Spar Varnish as an overcoat and have never had any problems with it.  and, yes, the water-based urethane is in fact fuelproof too. 

Someone told me common house paint is fuelproof...anyone know for sure? Oil-based, or latex? 

On a side note:  How's that SkyWriter flying for you, Ray?
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Offline john e. holliday

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Re: Fuel proofing
« Reply #8 on: January 14, 2011, 09:42:57 AM »
Funny you should mention that Ray.  I had a couple of combat planes from an estate that were painted with house paint.  He said it took fewer coats of paint and the planes didn't last that long in combat.  These planes were used extensively here in KANSAS and surrounding areas.  They still looked good when I carried them out of the basement of his house.  There were some stored in a detached garage also.  The stuff doesn't sand all that well. H^^
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Offline Larry Renger

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Re: Fuel proofing
« Reply #9 on: January 16, 2011, 08:35:44 PM »
Andy Borgogna swears that latex housepaint is totally fuelproof.  I have not tested it.  And I don't know to what level of Nitro.  Wipe some raw fuel on your walls and find out?   VD~
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Offline minnesotamodeler

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Re: Fuel proofing
« Reply #10 on: January 16, 2011, 09:59:32 PM »
Quote from: Larry Renger on January 16, 2011, 08:35:44 PM
Andy Borgogna swears that latex housepaint is totally fuelproof.  I have not tested it.  And I don't know to what level of Nitro.  Wipe some raw fuel on your walls and find out?   VD~

Wifey might have something to say about that...you try first.
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Online Brett Buck

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Re: Fuel proofing
« Reply #11 on: January 19, 2011, 01:27:59 AM »
Quote from: Larry Renger on January 16, 2011, 08:35:44 PM
Andy Borgogna swears that latex housepaint is totally fuelproof.  I have not tested it.  And I don't know to what level of Nitro.  Wipe some raw fuel on your walls and find out?   VD~

    No need, I can confirm that at least some of it is indeed fuelproof. I painted my first Shark 15 with Perky Blue exterior house paint. Bulletproof.

   Brett
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Offline George

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Re: Fuel proofing
« Reply #12 on: January 23, 2011, 07:05:54 PM »
Quote from: Brett Buck on January 19, 2011, 01:27:59 AM
    No need, I can confirm that at least some of it is indeed fuelproof. I painted my first Shark 15 with Perky Blue exterior house paint. Bulletproof.

   Brett

Brush or roller?   ;D

George
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Offline Sam Feinstein

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Re: Fuel proofing
« Reply #13 on: January 24, 2011, 08:35:09 PM »
I've ended up using some miniwax polyurathane for fuel-proofing on my Little Bipe. Once my paint-job was done (I painted it like a 1930's pursuit bipe)  I brushed on a relativly heavy coat of polyurathane, especially on the firewall. and so far it has stood up nicely to 25% nitro fuel spitting out of that brand new babe-bee (running rich  for break-in).  ;D
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Offline Bill Little

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Re: Fuel proofing
« Reply #14 on: January 25, 2011, 11:44:18 AM »
HI Sam,

Good News!

Now, POST SOME PICTURES OF THOSE MODELS!  LL~ LL~ LL~  We want to see them. ;D

Big Bear
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Offline Victor Jeffreys

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Re: Fuel proofing
« Reply #15 on: February 08, 2011, 03:48:58 PM »
How heavy (weight) are these hardware store coatings? Will they fuel proof decals and computer generated graphics?
Are they compatible with nitrate and butyrate dopes?

I've got a considerable size stash of old (60s-70s) Aerogloss dope in various colors. Some in 8oz cans, some in 3.5 oz. jars. Most of it looks OK and mixable. Some is a little thick and needs some thinner. Which of the common paint store solvents (acetone, MEK, laquer thinner, etc.) should I use for thinning old Aerogloss?
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