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Author Topic: finishing tips  (Read 1347 times)

Offline philip metzner

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finishing tips
« on: December 20, 2009, 10:12:03 PM »
  Guy's, what little i knew about finishing a model is ancient history, slow, and expensive. I am interested in any info on finishing that is better, faster, cheaper, with commonly available paints and materials. For example, i have heard that spray lacquer primers can be used instead of my old way of mixing powder with clear and brushing and sanding for ever. There arent many hobby shops around here, and i aint got any money anyway.
   Reading here on the 1\2a forum has stirred my interest. I have a stuntmaster 23that has been hanging here for years and all it needs is painting. I have a blackwidow thats ready to install, and i just found all the control parts. #^

Offline George

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Re: finishing tips
« Reply #1 on: December 21, 2009, 06:00:59 AM »
Philip,

Better, faster, and cheaper are not necessarily found in the same product.

I still like dope for finishing, mostly Brodak, some SIG.

Some have used polyurethanes with success. Some polyu's are fuel proof, some are not. Try it first.

Others like rustoleum. Stay away from clear and metalics, not fuel proof. Cheap but takes a week or do to dry completely.

For top-end finishes some use automotive finishes. I have not tried these.

Since I use mostly dope, I'll hope someone chimes in who uses the other methods.

George
George Bain
AMA 23454

Offline Robert McHam

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Re: finishing tips
« Reply #2 on: December 21, 2009, 07:26:23 AM »
This is an important stage you are at considering the performance of the model.
First, sand the model well, all over then sand again! Everything you sand off now will be less mass you will have to support later while flying. This is more important for these smaller planes because of the limited area you have to work with. Be more aggressive on the solid parts and more so on the parts behind the CG.

Besides helping to lighten the frame a good sanding helps to prepare anything you put on top. Any and all prep work done before applying the first bit of paint is more important to the good looks of the finish in the long run.

When choosing colors, dark colors like black, brown, blue, green, orange and reds are heavier so try to use them only for accent trim.
 Choose light colors like white, yellow, or cream for your base background color. Use enough to only get coverage! It is too easy to apply heavy coats trying to get good coverage adding unwanted weight. Weight that once added is difficult to remove.

Post pictures of before, during and after in the Half A forum!

Robert
Crop circles are simply open invitations to fly C/L!

Offline kenneth cook

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Re: finishing tips
« Reply #3 on: December 21, 2009, 02:30:53 PM »
   I can say that Nelson hobby paints are the most beneficial paints you can use on 1/2 a planes. No dope is going to withstand even a minor spill on the finish with %25-35%nitro. Sig has a better longevity than Brodak but it will be removed as if someone spilled paint remover on it. I've extensively used Nelson paints and repeatedly spill fuel on it with no effect. I feel these paints are a real tribute to high nitro users . They have virtually no smell, can be used on the most humid days and dry within minutes. I've painted and used the plane the following day. I've never weighed a plane after using but I barely use a 1/2 ounce to painting a 1/2 a sheeted wing plane. It uses water for thinner. It does need to be practiced with to get effecient with it as it has the consistency and look of water colors at first but after 4 coats looks terrific. The paint will run if not left flat so I choose to do one side at a time wait a few minutes then do the other. It matches Monokote very well. I use Nitrate as the initial base as it doesn't bond well to butyrate. Jerry Nelson has a 2 part water based epoxy primer thats formulated to use with the paints but I prefer the dope . A little goes a long way. If I'm not mistaken, I believe some of the r/cer's use latex paints then coat using Nelson clear. I've virtually tried every available marketed paint product that was made available to hobby shops for the past 20 years and can honestly say this paint holds up when used according to the directions. The only paint I haven't experimented with has been 2 part epoxies. Ken

Offline Glenn (Gravitywell) Reach

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Re: finishing tips
« Reply #4 on: December 21, 2009, 04:35:56 PM »
This is a subject that I will watch with some attention.  My wife has developed sensitivities to dope and other chemicals so I have to find alternatives.  I like the idea of Rustoleum, etc because of it being sold almost everywhere, but need to find something that will clear coat and be fuel proof.  So keep those ideas coming guys....others are watching as well I am sure. H^^
Glenn Reach
Westlock, Alberta
gravitywell2011 @ gmail . com

Online Larry Renger

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Re: finishing tips
« Reply #5 on: December 21, 2009, 05:07:28 PM »
Gloss water based Polyurethane (NOT Polycrylic) seems to be totally proof up to 15% Nitro, I'll have to try nastier stuff soon.
Think S.M.A.L.L. y'all and, it's all good, CL, FF and RC!

DesignMan
 BTW, Dracula Sucks!  A closed mouth gathers no feet!

Offline don Burke

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Re: finishing tips
« Reply #6 on: December 22, 2009, 01:13:54 PM »
I have used the NELSON water based urethanes with success.  With their "cross linker" addative it's impervious to any nitro I've used.  It also covers very well.
don Burke AMA 843
Menifee, CA

Offline bfrog

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Re: finishing tips
« Reply #7 on: December 22, 2009, 09:52:43 PM »
I'll put in a good word for the Nelson paint. I fly with 35% nitro on my carrier planes and the finish stays clear and does not yellow (be sure to use the hardener to get the full fuel proofing). The very nice part is that it is water based and is easy to clean up. It can be thinned with water or a mixture of water and alcohol. It spreads nicely and even though I am not very good at getting great finishes it looks very good.

The Nelson website says its good up to 50% nitro. Here's a link:

http://www.nelsonhobby.com/paint.html
Bob Frogner

Offline Victor Jeffreys

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Re: finishing tips
« Reply #8 on: December 23, 2009, 06:39:57 PM »
Is there a clear product from a common hardware store that will fuelproof decals and certain plastic parts.

Offline philip metzner

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Re: finishing tips
« Reply #9 on: December 23, 2009, 10:29:11 PM »
Is there a clear product from a common hardware store that will fuelproof decals and certain plastic parts.
Victor, once again you asked the question better than i did!

Online Larry Renger

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Re: finishing tips
« Reply #10 on: December 28, 2009, 07:11:23 PM »
Minwax clear, gloss polyurethane (water based) from the can, seems to be bulletproof.  I don't think you could coat it over inkjet decals, but laserjet or commercial decals should be fine.  I think the base coats need to be well sanded and dust removed to assure adhesion.  The clear, gloss water-based urethane in the spray can is not as good for fuel proofing.  If you are trying anything new, do samples before committing paint to a model.  Some things work one way, but not another.  I put clear urethane over metallic Rustoleum, and it peels off under the least provication (that model is now a "hangar queen", pretty but not flyable)

I do my samples on old bits of cardboard and keep them around for reference!  The base and topcoats are identified on the backside.
Think S.M.A.L.L. y'all and, it's all good, CL, FF and RC!

DesignMan
 BTW, Dracula Sucks!  A closed mouth gathers no feet!


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