I like it. 

Great job Larry! I'm still enjoying your FM article on the 1/2A Magician. How many sq inches is the wing?

I hope to build a full fuse 1/2A plane soon. Have been looking at the RSM Pinto or a scale down of the Brodak Fancy Pants. I will use electric power.

 i love it.  looks good.

The 1/2A Magician has 230 sq.in. wing.  It is sized nicely for a .049, and a bit small for a .061.  I flew Antone Kephart's new model Sunday.  It has my most hopped-up AP Wasp on it.  On 50' lines it was too fast, even with a 6x2 prop.  He was burning 25% Nitro, so we guess the thing was doing 24K in the air.  His "old" model has a pressureized Tee Dee .049 on it driving a 6x3 prop on 48' lines, and that combo works very well indeed.

My original model was slightly over 10 ounces, if I recall correctly.  Antone's are around 9 ounces.

The Wasp in question has Jan's venturi at .125" diameter and an old Norvel pressure tap backplate.  In addition the engine has been "flow relieved", that is, everything in the way of smooth airflow internally has been corrected to the best of my ability.  (No changes to timing!) Beyond that, the crankpin was drilled out for better balance, and the crank polished to fit the case perfectly.  (Unlike Cox, Norvel, VA, Brodak and others, the AP has a bronze bushed case, and you could actually lap the crank in safely).  Break-in per the instructions, 40 minutes on 25% oil fuel (steel crank, bronze bushing, gotta do it right!)

On the high (for that engine) nitro, and long lines, it takes about 1-1/8 ounce to do the pattern.  Antone plans to add a couple of more feet of line, and may go to a 3" pitch prop if needed to get the line tension back.  He is trying to get to 4.5 second or longer lap times, and probably will be able to do so.  Even at the just over 4 second laps, the model is a real pleasure to fly.  He also can drop his oil % and go to 15% Nitro to cut the power a bit and get much better fuel economy.

Very nice...I like the included Fox .35 for size reference!

Wingspan is 28", and estimated wing area is 160 sq.in.

I have about 4 flights on the model, and it shows, much to my surprise, competitive potential.  So far, it is underpowered with the Norvel .049, so an AP Wasp goes in it ASAP.  In addition, it has about 3/4 oz noseweight, and is still a bit squirrely (Who knows what the control geometry is!).  I have reduced the handle spacing, and will try removing the "exponential" function of my handle to tame the extremes of control.  it is plenty smooth horizontal and upright, but tends to overcontrol on round maneuvers.

There is NO hint of mush or stall, even in super tight corners.  I am VERY impressed.   

Wingspan is 28", and estimated wing area is 160 sq.in.

I have about 4 flights on the model, and it shows, much to my surprise, competitive potential.  So far, it is underpowered with the Norvel .049, so an AP Wasp goes in it ASAP.  In addition, it has about 3/4 oz noseweight, and is still a bit squirrely (Who knows what the control geometry is!).  I have reduced the handle spacing, and will try removing the "exponential" function of my handle to tame the extremes of control.  it is plenty smooth horizontal and upright, but tends to overcontrol on round maneuvers.

There is NO hint of mush or stall, even in super tight corners.  I am VERY impressed.   

I've been putting 3" bellcranks in my 1/2A stunt planes, with full 180 d. (well, maybe 170d.) movement and a very short pushrod arm, to slow down the controls.  Makes the plane react more like a bigger model, instead of the typical twitchy 1/2A.  I even put a 2 1/4" BC in my latest .020-powered plane. It makes a diffference.

I added yet another .3 oz of noseweight, and made up a non-expo insert for my handle that is about 1.5 inches across.  I should eventually reach a point where all I can do is fly level, then work back from there   

The model is clearly tail heavy, as it becomes uncontrollable on landing, wanting to stall at the last instant, no matter how I try to set it down.  The original Green Box Nobler had built-up tail surfaces and the rear of the fuselage was cut out for lightness.  This model has neither, and the tail wood isn't all that light.  I should have corrected all that when re-finishing it, but too late now!

It probably will end up a very lovely hangar queen, but I want to see how well it CAN fly first.  It certainly has me re-thinking the issue of flaps on a 1/2A model, and the weight it can carry.

Bingo!  The model is tuned great, now.  Did the whole pattern this morning.  It is going too fast, though.  I need to switch to a lower pitch prop.  I was flying with a Tornado 5x3.  I think the APC 5.5x2.5 or even the 6x2 may be needed.

It is a 50% scale-down of the Green Box Nobler, part for part.  It was built by Don Butman along with another one that is now the property of Bill Heyworth in Tucson.  Bill has never attempted to fly his, so far as I know.   Get a set of Nobler plans and parts and head for Kinko's and you are in business.

If I were doing one, I would aim for 200 sq.in.  not the 160 that this model has.

BTW, I decided to "quit winners" and retired the model.  I have learned all I think I can from it, and it is just too cute to allow it to get mangled in an accident.

There are a gazillion trade-offs with stunt models.  The Top Flite planes you loved would fly beautifully with a Sure-start engine.  You could probably go as far as 180 sq.in. with a well designed stunter for that engine.  Here in So.CA, we fly 1cc with Schneurle ported fire-breathing engines, and long lines, so the game is different.  Look up the thread on my Tech Terror to see a design that is just about right for the Sure-start, though it flies with a Golden Bee.  The larger (Baby Flite Streak, Baby Clown, Baby Lightning Streak) Brodak kits are just fine for full stunt performance with a Cox Reedie.  Also check out the models from minnesotamodeler, he has a wide range of planes for different engines.

What it boils down to, is that first you pick your power system, then you select the appropriate model for it.  Careful observation of what people are flying with which engine can give you good input on size.  Here is my take on what works. (I just donned my bulletproof vest, riot mask and Kevlar cup)

Pee Wee .020   80 sq.in.
Tee Dee .020  105 sq.in.  (gee, that happens to match the 1/2A Snapper   =)   )
Cox basic Reed engines    125 to 160 sq.in.
Cox Killer Bee and Venom   150 to 200 sq.in.
Brodak Mk 1 & 2 unmodified  160 to 180 sq.in.
Tee Dee engines  175 to 220 sq.in.
Norvel, AP Wasp .061  200 to 250 sq.in.

Nowte that a modified Brodak .061 is in the same ballpark as the AP Wasp, it just costs a lot more after you add the Nelson head

Wow a lot of useful info for 1/2a flyers!! Maybe someone could put these findings in a chart or spreadsheet.